How not to "save a buck"

[SSgtPitt]

Reading through multiple forums and from my own life experiences I've learned that buying cheap tools means they'll fail when you need them most. I buy the best tool I can afford and put a lanyard on it. Although i have been guilty of my size 14 foot kicking something over the side...Grrrrr!!
Cheap parts are the same. They don't quite fit, are just a little too long or too short, too thin too thick or don't line up. That's inconvenient when you're working on your truck, it could be deadly or put you adrift when you're on your boat.
I think I'll keep on buying the best thing i can afford while looking for the best price possible.
Reading through the Sailrite postings and links confirms that quality and service are worth paying for.......but $1295??......that's gonna take some time to afford.
Anyone wanna buy a 2003 HD Fatboy and an 06 Custom Sportster? They won't fit on the boat

[Mike OReilly]

The problem we all face is that it is often hard or impossible for the average buyers to really compare quality of similar widgets. On the other hand, it’s easy for everyone to compare cost.

Research on this question shows that, given a range of similar items, most people don’t purchase the most expensive item, but we usually purchase one near the top of the list. We don’t want to appear cheap, but neither do we want to appear naive. Since we usually don’t know the actual comparative quality of an item, we go with what we understand: price. This is especially true when the buyer is faced with the barrage of marketing and advertising that all says “my widget is best”.

[Rhapsody-NS27]

yep, like buying cheap $15 crimping tools for putting terminals on wire, but realizing that while they may "work" they're not proper... then going back and buying the almost $150 crimpers for doing it the right way the first time.

[Stumble]

Originally Posted by Rhapsody-NS27

yep, like buying cheap $15 crimping tools for putting terminals on wire, but realizing that while they may "work" they're not proper... then going back and buying the almost $150 crimpers for doing it the right way the first time.

I think this gets to an important distinction between precision tools and imprecise ones.

For some jobs like wire crimps a cheap tool simply won't do the job. A cheap crimper simply doesn't work. Maybe by accident it can get a quality crimp from time to time but it isn't repeatable, while a high quality will almost never fail to get a good crimp.

On the other hand a cheap screwdriver will work 99% of the time, it may struggle getting a seized nut off, but for basic turning a screw the cheap ones are fine. A $5 hammer can bash things quite well, it may make your arm sore, and the balance may be off, but it will work.

Given the number of tools I have lost, dropped, or had stolen over the years I buy cheap for the imprecise class of tools. But my precision stuff I like to buy reasonably high quality. Sure I may lust after the Japanese steel hand plane for $300, but a good Stanley #2 for $50 is still a good tool, the $8 Harbor Freight one won't plane cardboard however.

[SSgtPitt]

Originally Posted by Mike OReilly

The problem we all face is that it is often hard or impossible for the average buyers to really compare quality of similar widgets. On the other hand, it’s easy for everyone to compare cost.

Research on this question shows that, given a range of similar items, most people don’t purchase the most expensive item, but we usually purchase one near the top of the list. We don’t want to appear cheap, but neither do we want to appear naive. Since we usually don’t know the actual comparative quality of an item, we go with what we understand: price. This is especially true when the buyer is faced with the barrage of marketing and advertising that all says “my widget is best”.

So true so true, luckily we have this forum to ask others what they bought, who they bought it from and how well (or poorly) it worked. My Danfoss "flux capacitor" went out on my fridge / freezer. I researched everything i could and found them from $100 to $300. I eventually bought it from Cruise RO Water because of their reputation for service, replying to my ignorant email questions and answering the phone when you call. They tested my failed unit for free and then called me about some testing procedures so I didn't burn up my new part. Yes, that was the $300 one, but hopefully money well spent as it's going in 24 Feb.....no more hot beer or rotten cheese for me.
Good service is worth every penny.

[Blue Crab]

I suspect all of us know that the Chinese can/will build to whatever spec they're given.

[Sea Dreaming]

Originally Posted by Stumble

I think this gets to an important distinction between precision tools and imprecise ones.

For some jobs like wire crimps a cheap tool simply won't do the job. A cheap crimper simply doesn't work. Maybe by accident it can get a quality crimp from time to time but it isn't repeatable, while a high quality will almost never fail to get a good crimp.

On the other hand a cheap screwdriver will work 99% of the time, it may struggle getting a seized nut off, but for basic turning a screw the cheap ones are fine. A $5 hammer can bash things quite well, it may make your arm sore, and the balance may be off, but it will work.

Given the number of tools I have lost, dropped, or had stolen over the years I buy cheap for the imprecise class of tools. But my precision stuff I like to buy reasonably high quality. Sure I may lust after the Japanese steel hand plane for $300, but a good Stanley #2 for $50 is still a good tool, the $8 Harbor Freight one won't plane cardboard however.

Waaayyy back when my mom would provide the money for my art supplies she would argue that better quality paints would not make me a better artist. This is true, but I do know that poor quality materials simply frustrate new artists and make it appear you don't have "talent", when the truth is, you can't do what you want because the materials are unsuitable. No, sorry mom, I can not draw like Picasso with a Crayola crayon. But Picasso can draw like Picasso with a Crayola crayon. : )

[GJori]

Originally Posted by achil

You can find the manual at this site and download the pdf version.

Singer Sewing Machine 107W35 User Guide | ManualsOnline.com

I totally agree with above posting. I have used Singer (201) for everything on my boat (sails, upholstery and Bimini etc.). It is a steel machine that never fails. If you can live without zigzag stitching Old steel Singer is your cheapo good tool you have been dreaming.
Saved at least $600. And that is a lot of beer for me...

[SSgtPitt]

Originally Posted by Blue Crab

I suspect all of us know that the Chinese can/will build to whatever spec they're given.

I'm not an expert in Chinese production or manufacturing, but the tools I use that are Made in America seem to be heavier, more durable and last longer. Of course, like most Construction guys I also have a pile of those cheap tools that I'm not too worried about getting stolen, broken or falling apart. Like most of us though, I presume we eventually buy the good tool / part / thingy when it counts. Levels for instance, THAT counts. LED lights on the other hand, China all day long. A part for my Perkins motor.....coming from Perkins....which hopefully isn't made in China yet, and please don't burst my bubble if it is.

[JPA Cate]

When I was newly single, I bought some Snap-on sockets, and a socket bar to keep 'em on in my tool box that i used in the car. All of those, except for the 10 mm one, which got replaced by one from Sears, a Craftsman one, so I could finish the job that weekend have come on the boat for all these years, and are in equally good condition.

In retrospect, I think I could have saved some money if I had gone all Craftsman, but I would have been aware that I had chosen lesser quality tools, and I was sort of proud of having the Snap-On. That's how word of mouth and advertising affects people. We're told stuff is "the best", and we believe it, whether or not it's true!

I like Stumble's dividing line for precision vs. less precision tools. I have heard Jim complain about poor quality tools. It's tricky getting "good value".

Ann

[SSgtPitt]

Snap-On...... wish i could afford a set of those. Over the years I ended up with a couple of found wrenches and the cut, fit and angle are just so much better.....even after bouncing out of someones truck and being run over a dozen times.

[KiminAK]

I'm sorry that purchase didn't work out for you. I have stories that support both sides of the expensive vs. not-so-expensive debate. Sometimes you win that way, sometimes you don't. But no one dies! it's regrettable but not a catastrophe. We make the best decisions that we can at the time, now you have more information and have made a different decision.

[boatman61]

LOL.. Snap On snapped off in SXM.. not designed for the power of 200lbs of Aussie muscle.. he broke 2..

[daletournier]

Originally Posted by Stumble

I think this gets to an important distinction between precision tools and imprecise ones.

For some jobs like wire crimps a cheap tool simply won't do the job. A cheap crimper simply doesn't work. Maybe by accident it can get a quality crimp from time to time but it isn't repeatable, while a high quality will almost never fail to get a good crimp.

On the other hand a cheap screwdriver will work 99% of the time, it may struggle getting a seized nut off, but for basic turning a screw the cheap ones are fine. A $5 hammer can bash things quite well, it may make your arm sore, and the balance may be off, but it will work.

Given the number of tools I have lost, dropped, or had stolen over the years I buy cheap for the imprecise class of tools. But my precision stuff I like to buy reasonably high quality. Sure I may lust after the Japanese steel hand plane for $300, but a good Stanley #2 for $50 is still a good tool, the $8 Harbor Freight one won't plane cardboard however.

I agree. As a past motor mechanic and brought up by a electrician its been installed in me too have the best tools BUT I don't do this anymore. As mentioned above I have expensive crimpers and side cutters but cheap spanners and screwdrivers. I've learnt (learning) what you can get away with and what you cant. If you earn your living twirling spanners then get the best but if your not using them regularly the cheap ones are fine. Cheap power drills are fine a cheap band saw isn't, experience teaches you.

Sent from my vivo Y35 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by boatman61

LOL.. Snap On snapped off in SXM.. not designed for the power of 200lbs of Aussie muscle.. he broke 2..

Even the best tools are not gorilla proof
Still I suspect this might have been a socket and incorrectly sized - there is a big difference in a 1/4" drive and say an 1/2" drive