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ttex · 02-06-2019, 08:36

I was connecting the diesel fill hose to the deck fill nipple and it felt stuck so I gave it a tug and it came loose. Problem solved! Time for a beer.

Except the diesel hose was under the 3/4" thru hull for the watermaker intake. Broke it clean off and water was pouring into my boat.

I dashed for the bag of wooden bungs i found on the boat and they are massive. Useless.

I ended up shoving a wad of butyl tape in the hole with an Bic click pen behind it. Still there as I try to unfudge this situation.

gmakhs · 02-06-2019, 08:58

Haul out replace through Hull
Dry out with the tide replace though hull
Replace through hull in the water ( live with slow leaks )

That's all I can think

fstbttms · 02-06-2019, 09:00

There are divers that will replace a thru-hull in the water. I admin a Facebook group with over 1600 hull cleaners as members. DM me your contact info, if you'd like me to post a "help wanted" ad for you there.

fgd3 · 02-06-2019, 13:21

How close to the waterline is the through hull? I once replaced a friend's through hull by heeling the boat until the fitting came out of the water. We had to leave it that way long enough to go buy a new fitting.

If you replace a fitting under water make a rubber gasket--Home Depot and Lowes sell sheets of gasket material--so you won't have to deal with applying sealant under water. There are underwater sealants but they are very tricky to use--never worked for me.

Fabbian

**Jim Cate** · 02-06-2019, 14:13

Your experience underlines the need for through hull bungs to be lashed to their respective through hulls, AFTER checking to see if they fit. Keeping them in a bag "down there somewhere" is poor practice! But you know that now, don't you!

Good luck with the replacement.

Jim

**JPA Cate** · 02-06-2019, 15:14

If there are any drying grids in your area, you could dry out on one. You could check. Otherwise, haul out is probably simplest. Most marinas will let you lie in the slings if their hardstand is full, to allow your boat not to sink.

Good on your Macguyvered patch, but do not expect it to work for long. It stopped the water, and that is good, but I would not count on it to last very long.

Ann

**a64pilot** · 02-06-2019, 15:36

I already had the thru hull installed but needed to pull the elbow that I had on it for temp when I was in the Bahamas, went under the boat and placed a thick piece of foam mat, like a good Yoga mat. I was suspicious at first, but pulled the elbow off and installed Groco’s adapter, three way valve etc and the whole time it never leaked a drop.
So I thought well I’ll just fill the head with water and the macerator pump will blow that foam mat off, cause it pumps water fast. I did that three of four times and the foam never moved, had to dive to remove it.

Got me thinking that maybe to go with my soft wood plugs and a couple of Nerf footballs, a yoga mat if the hole is underneath might just be a pretty darn good plug.

ttex · 03-06-2019, 09:42

Pen is in there pretty good.

We decided to leave it and we will haul it out in a few days to fix it.

**a64pilot** · 03-06-2019, 12:10

You know while I can’t be sure, it looks as if there may be plumbing brass parts there, if so, be sure to not use brass, only bronze.
There is a form of brass that I believe is actually bronze, it may be called naval brass, but it’s also called by its metals make up, forget exactly what it’s called, but it has a bunch of fives in the name

Just plumbing brass won’t last long I’m salt water, it breaks

You may also want to look into a real seacock and not a ball valve on a thru hull, especially that small as that’s surely fragile.

Plus I believe there is no backing plate, just a hole in the hull?

Maine sail I’m sure has a write up on how to install a thru hull / seacock, I’ll look

Read this before you haul, and gather parts before you haul too of course
https://marinehowto.com/replacing-th...-and-seacocks/

**a64pilot** · 03-06-2019, 12:21

Those instructions had you making your own backing plates and drilling through the hull. If you don’t want to do that Groco sells backing plates
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=2684976

Then screw this onto a thru hull and you then have the strength of a flanged seacock, and the advantage of a replaceable ball valve.
I have not installed one myself yet, but it’s my plan when I need to.
https://www.groco.net/products/fitti...flange-adaptor

captmick39 · 03-06-2019, 12:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Your experience underlines the need for through hull bungs to be lashed to their respective through hulls, AFTER checking to see if they fit. Keeping them in a bag "down there somewhere" is poor practice! But you know that now, don't you!

Good luck with the replacement.

Jim

Well said. Drilled holes, put screw eyes in fat end & Tied them to all the thru-hulls w/poly twine. Not worried abt. screw eyes when getting smacked by mallet/hammer/ANYTHING Heavy that can be grabbed in 'crisis mode'. Hopefully 'find-able' when it's gushing in. Talk is cheap, but the OP really does need to either seek out a beach-able location where repair can get done at low tide, or opt for haul out. Guessing pickup for a WM is going to be far below waterline & nearby engine FW pickup?

Bill Seal · 03-06-2019, 12:33

I've wondered why through-hulls are made of what appears to be sched 40 pipe. As important as they are, why not 0.250" wall thickness and nuts as beefy as bridge washers?

captmick39 · 03-06-2019, 12:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Seal

I've wondered why through-hulls are made of what appears to be sched 40 pipe. As important as they are, why not 0.250" wall thickness and nuts as beefy as bridge washers?

Old School & multiple Old Boat Owner...all of ours are BRONZE, w/valve attached immediately behind & before those double clamped hoses.

Regarding the 'new school' vein, recently purchased 14 sticks of 6" schedule 40....used them (like the Egyptians) to move a 40' shipping container filled to abt. 45-48k lbs.? The Stuff IS Strong;
Just sayin'?

ttex · 03-06-2019, 13:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by a64pilot

You know while I can’t be sure, it looks as if there may be plumbing brass parts there, if so, be sure to not use brass, only bronze.
There is a form of brass that I believe is actually bronze, it may be called naval brass, but it’s also called by its metals make up, forget exactly what it’s called, but it has a bunch of fives in the name

Just plumbing brass won’t last long I’m salt water, it breaks

You may also want to look into a real seacock and not a ball valve on a thru hull, especially that small as that’s surely fragile.

Plus I believe there is no backing plate, just a hole in the hull?

Maine sail I’m sure has a write up on how to install a thru hull / seacock, I’ll look

Read this before you haul, and gather parts before you haul too of course
https://marinehowto.com/replacing-th...-and-seacocks/

I recently bought the boat a couple of months ago. The only thing I installed in this picture is the pen!

I will be doing a lot of research and I will do it right. I assure you.