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Old 10-09-2017, 06:33   #16
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Re: Anchors. A little schooling, please.

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I would no sooner replace the Rocna at my bow with it than I would use Silly String as anchor rode.
LOL. Good visual.
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Old 10-09-2017, 06:45   #17
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Re: Anchors. A little schooling, please.

Many people have the newest "high tech" anchors because of advertising. Others have them because they have to have "the best" on their boats even though many other systems on their boats may be sub standard.

My thought is, if your current anchor does the job, there's little point in replacing it unless you just like to brag.

The other thing is, knowing how to anchor properly. I'm not going to try to explain it on a web forum, but books and/or a web search will give you the information.
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Old 10-09-2017, 07:09   #18
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Re: Anchors. A little schooling, please.

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Originally Posted by Mike OReilly View Post
I’m firmly in the ‘new-gen’ camp when it comes to bower anchors: rocna, mantus, spade, manson, etc. ... I think any of these anchors will perform basically the same.
Outrageous, provocative, incendiary fighting words!

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Old 10-09-2017, 07:22   #19
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Re: Anchors. A little schooling, please.

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So, true. Early on in our anchoring "career," we didn't let out enough rode. Held fine the first night but dragged about 50-75 yards the second night. Fortunately, no risk to anyone else around us. We have learned from that lesson and haven't had a problem since.
So true. The proper amount and type of rode is as important, or perhaps even more important, than the hunk of metal down on the bottom. But some hunks are definitely better than others .

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Old 10-09-2017, 07:28   #20
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Re: Anchors. A little schooling, please.

I am totally impressed and how much quicker my Rocna sets compared to my old CQR. I have also purchased a Manus which sets just as well as the Rocna , the ture test is when it needs to reset , IMHO , but I haven't experienced that situation yet in big winds >40 knots.
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Old 10-09-2017, 07:32   #21
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Re: Anchors. A little schooling, please.

Anchors, yes, but don't forget SCOPE. Even poor anchors will hold remarkably well given enough scope.
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Old 10-09-2017, 08:45   #22
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Re: Anchors. A little schooling, please.

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Originally Posted by Mike OReilly View Post
I’m firmly in the ‘new-gen’ camp when it comes to bower anchors: rocna, mantus, spade, manson, etc. I have a Rocna and use it constantly during the season (we’re anchored the vast majority of time), but like evm1024 says, I think any of these anchors will perform basically the same. Good and quick setting which keeps the anchor digging under strain. And it resets well, or more commonly, rotates around as the pull direction changes.

Prior to the Rocna we carried two bower anchors on the bow which we’d routinely switch between: a CQR and a Danforth. This gave us a good range of anchoring options. In my experience, the Rocna covers the same range, and does it better.

The fluke-style anchors, of which Fortress is one, are different beasts to my mind. They are awesome for soft mud/sand where the pull remains in one direction. They are not good for harder bottoms, and terrible in weeds. But if you can get one properly set, they have the greatest holding power vs weight of any anchor.

Our anchor compliment includes our 25 kg Rocna (bower), a 15 kg Bruce as a kedge/stern anchor, a 3x oversized Fortress as our potential storm anchor (never used — yet), and then a backup large Danforth which has also not been used.

Another important aspect of anchoring is the rode you use. Our main rode is 250’ of all-chain, 3/8”. Our secondary rode is 200’ of 5/8” three-strand nylon attached to 50’ of 3/8” chain. And our kedge is attached to its own rode: 150’ of 1/2” double-braid attached to about 10’ of 1/2” chain.

But probably the most important aspect of anchoring is learning how to do it right. I watch way too many people use poor technique, and then wonder why they end up dragging away. Learn to lay out the anchor and chain properly, to set and dig it in, and you’ll sleep well.
Excellent summary, particularly on the idea to have anchors with "opposing actions", such as a plow and a fluke, to cover one's bases in terms of variable holding.

But even better is the emphasis on technique. When I hear stuff like "the new gen anchors hold as well at 5:1 scope as the old ones at 7:1 (the traditional minimum)", I cringe, because why wouldn't you just pay out more rode with a new anchor? Sleep better!
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Old 10-09-2017, 09:19   #23
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Re: Anchors. A little schooling, please.

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Anchors, yes, but don't forget SCOPE. Even poor anchors will hold remarkably well given enough scope.
Conversely, many of the new generation of anchors hold remarkably well with fairly short scope.

Not so long ago I anchored along the channel in Beaufort NC and stayed for about five days. It's an exceptionally challenging spot with a crowded morning field on one side, the channel on the other, a shelving bottom underneath and a strong reversing current that sets up against the wind twice a day. My Rocna held at little more than 3:1 scope in a situation that would have flummoxed my CQR or Fortress. In short it gives you more anchoring options which is often only a matter of convenience but occasionally a bit more necessary.
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Old 10-09-2017, 09:28   #24
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Re: Anchors. A little schooling, please.

I have a Manson Supreme, which has never dragged, and an over-sized Fortress as back-up (used once). Also an old steel Danforth just because it came with the boat. I had a CQR, which came with the boat, and I got rid of it based on multiple inputs from other sailors about it not holding / re-setting, and also it really didn't fit on the bower with the Manson.
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Old 10-09-2017, 12:15   #25
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Re: Anchors. A little schooling, please.

Nice to see an anchoring thread with such straightforward, helpful, sensible advice. Now wait for all the opposing opinions to start!
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Old 10-09-2017, 12:37   #26
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Re: Anchors. A little schooling, please.

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Nice to see an anchoring thread with such straightforward, helpful, sensible advice. Now wait for all the opposing opinions to start!
Yes! The last thing we want is someone to present an opposing viewpoint. Let's keep this a love-in.
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Old 10-09-2017, 12:59   #27
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Re: Anchors. A little schooling, please.

I use a delta as my primary and it does so well I've never considered any other anchor. I can only recall 2-3 times it didn't set and 2-3 times that I had it drag in the past 7yrs (ICW, SF bay, Pacific Islands). I usually put out as little scope as possible so the dragging was definitely my fault and in places known for poor holding (which is usually mud).

Now when I anchor in normal conditions I just drop it ~(4:1) and forget about it (sometimes without backing down on it). Many times I find that it's my chain holding my boat in place (80' 5/16) But if the wind/current picks up the delta just sets itself.

I've spent the last 18 months in really clear water (Pacific islands) so I've learned a lot watching my anchor hit the bottom. Sometimes up to 35ft deep. And while snorkeling I have a look, the distance the anchor drags before it sets is usually the time/distance it takes to spin around. Once the rode is pulled tight it starts to dig. It's usually pure sand in these places.
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Old 10-09-2017, 14:46   #28
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Re: Anchors. A little schooling, please.

Quote:
Originally Posted by S/V Alchemy View Post
Excellent summary, particularly on the idea to have anchors with "opposing actions", such as a plow and a fluke, to cover one's bases in terms of variable holding.

But even better is the emphasis on technique. When I hear stuff like "the new gen anchors hold as well at 5:1 scope as the old ones at 7:1 (the traditional minimum)", I cringe, because why wouldn't you just pay out more rode with a new anchor? Sleep better!
Thanks… agreed.

I always put out at least 5:1 except in very odd situations. But I usually aim for 7:1 or even greater. If I’m not constrained by other boats or proximity to land, why the heck not put out more?!?

I do believe the new gen anchors set easier, dig in and hold better, reset easier and generally perform better than older styles, but as you well know, no anchor will hold in serious wind if the force vector is not significantly horizontal to the bottom. This is why scope is necessary for all anchors, new or old. But it’s also important to set the anchor properly to begin with, and that means laying out the rode properly, and digging the anchor in well to begin with.

If the anchor’s not dug in, and not being pulled horizontally, it’s just a hunk of pointy metal. No anchor any of us can carry will be heavy enough, or pointy enough, to hold just like that. It needs to be pulled such that the flukes will dig into the substrate.
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Old 10-09-2017, 15:00   #29
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pirate Re: Anchors. A little schooling, please.

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Yes! The last thing we want is someone to present an opposing viewpoint. Let's keep this a love-in.
Surely you know who will be along to old school CQR us.
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Old 10-09-2017, 15:01   #30
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Re: Anchors. A little schooling, please.

I'm choosing a second anchor for our new Lagoon 450, and after some research have decided on a Fortress FX37 on the basis that it's strong enough to use as a storm anchor but light enough (10.6KG, 23lbs) to be used as a a kedge/stern anchor, especially if we remove the chain. Given that the boat weighs 18 tons, do you think this would be a good choice? After all, Mike says he hasn't used half his anchors!
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