2001 Searay 340 8.1 zf Transmission

[wingless]

Originally Posted by wingless

Don't forget to use seal protectors if the shaft is ever removed or installed, so the keyway does not destroy the seal in the dripless seal carrier.

Here is the Tides seal protector.

Get a couple from Tides to protect the seal in the dripless seal carrier and in the spare seal carrier.

It wouldn't hurt to discard the active seal, make the spare seal active and load a brand new seal into the spare seal carrier.

Polish the shaft and position the seal carrier so the seal works at a different position.

[rjrcmr03]

Wingless, I really have to say awesome info from a tech who knows what he is talking about. I am an automotive instructor who worked for GM along time so I know my way around also. Its good to have a forum that has true honest feedback. Great Job!! One more thing do you happen to have a link for the operating manual and trans manual for HSW 63IV that I can download? Again thanks for all your help.

[wingless]

Originally Posted by rjrcmr03

Wingless, I really have to say awesome info from a tech who knows what he is talking about. I am an automotive instructor who worked for GM along time so I know my way around also. Its good to have a forum that has true honest feedback. Great Job!!

Thanks for the complements.

No, I'm not a tech, just a guy who's read every document for every machine I've ever owned to teach myself how they work and how to fix them.

It started as a poor teenager w/o money to fix my car. I knew the guys in the auto shop were not any smarter, they just had experience and tools, so I read and tried until I figured it out.

Originally Posted by rjrcmr03

Again thanks for all your help.

You are welcome.

Originally Posted by rjrcmr03

One more thing do you happen to have a link for the operating manual and trans manual for HSW 63IV that I can download?

Here are the links:

Specification Sheet

Transmission Overview

ZF 63C Repair Manual

Parts Manual

Operating Manual

Hurth 8A Drives Manual

Hurth 8D Drives Manual

[wingless]

Originally Posted by wingless

When I disassembled those parts, I lapped the parts so that they fit together properly. I also cross lapped the parts, so it doesn't matter how they are assembled. Now they come apart nicely.

Originally Posted by wingless

Polish the shaft and position the seal carrier so the seal works at a different position.

Here is the topic w/ information on lapping couplings and polishing shafts.

[wingless]

What is the status of this repair?

[NoTies]

In my experience these symptoms are usually caused by clutch plates buckling due to excessive heat (slippage). As part of the repair it is important to eliminate the cause of the slipping. This could be a trolling valve set incorrectly, incorrect cable adjustment or control valve by passing fluid.
Good luck getting the clutch pack apart, I usually put it in a press and press down on one side only to try and free the circlip.

[rjrcmr03]

Wingless, It has been some busy weekends I am pulling the boat next Saturday and I will then prepare to pull the engine. Thanks for all the help.

NoTies thanks for the info, just like automatics in passenger vehicles we sometimes fight like heck to get some of those burnt clutch packs apart. I will let everyone know my status on what I find as I start the rebuild.

[Grandrapidsstud]

Any of the two gentleman involved here, please give me a ring. I am as well attempting this in dry dock, but am thinking I can do it without removing engine. Please help, could we talk on phone?

[wingless]

Originally Posted by wingless

There are many inspections and services that may / should be performed while the transmission is in-place and the boat is in the water.

Has the high-pressure hydraulic system been inspected per the FSM to determine the cause of the transmission stuck in forward problem?

On my 380DA there is not much room in-front of the transmission and it might not be enough to shift the transmission away from the engine to clear the input shaft.

Have the valve passages been inspected and cleaned to determine if those are contributing to the problem?

Also, the forward mounts are on the transmission so I would yank the engine / transmission assembly to avoid trying to support that end of the engine w the transmission out.

Does the prop / coupler rotate by hand w the engine off?

Here is a reply w/ information on fixing problems w/ this transmission.

Originally Posted by Grandrapidsstud

Any of the two gentleman involved here, please give me a ring. I am as well attempting this in dry dock, but am thinking I can do it without removing engine. Please help, could we talk on phone?

The reply above discusses removing only the transmission.

What is the boat?

[Grandrapidsstud]

Same boat 2001 340 da with v-drives. I am wondering if I can do this job without pulling engine.

[wingless]

No, the engine / transmission must be pulled as an assembly.

What is wrong w/ the transmission?

What tests have already been performed and what are the results?

[Grandrapidsstud]

No tests but what I know Is I accedently pulled it out of gear, full plane 32 knots, then put it back into gear. From my research, there is no dought I welded plates together. It's stuck in forward now..

[wingless]

Originally Posted by Grandrapidsstud

No tests but what I know Is I accedently pulled it out of gear, full plane 32 knots, then put it back into gear. From my research, there is no dought I welded plates together.

Yeah, don't do that...

Originally Posted by Grandrapidsstud

It's stuck in forward now..

It probably also stops immediately when shifted to reverse.

Yes, the only option is to yank the engine/transmission assembly.

Don't forget to use a seal protector when removing / installing the shaft, for both the active seal and the spare seal.

When I remove / replace my props and shafts I lap the tapered joints for best fit and to aid removal the next time. It is also good to reposition the seal so it works on a different location on the shaft.