Allied Princess 36 Cutlass Bearing

[S/V Adeline]

We have a new prop shaft being made as I type this, new dripless stuffing box going in, but might as well replace that cutlass bearing while it's all apart.
The only reference I can find are four (4) stainless set screws (on the seawind mkii). Directions state they must be uncovered to access.
Anyone have knowledge on the Princess 36? Should be similar but I don't want to start removing new paint and what looks like fiberglass if this one is different.
Please don't refer me to the defunct allied group that hasn't had activity in years.
Thanks
Michael
SV Adeline

[S/V Adeline]

This is the reference I found for a Seawind MKII

[kenbo]

Unfortunately you have to remove about 3/8" to 1/2" inch of that fairing matrix to get at the grub screws. you could start at 1/4" inch and work forward a bit at a time. Not that bad of a job really.

And you should use new grub screws when installing the new cutless bearing.

[S/V Adeline]

kenbo, thank you for the fast response. Going by all I found I figured that was the case but just didn't want to start 'tearing it up' without asking around. Looks like a good task for the dremel with a barrel sander. I will post pics of what I uncover.

[S/V Adeline]

Ground the semi beautiful fiberglass away to find 3 empty screw holes and 1 set screw. Once that offensive screw was removed a 4lb hand sledge made easy work of persuading the old cutlass out.
Couple questions.
1. The single screw did not have a head on it. Appeared to be screwed in, cut off, and glassed over. Is this normal in any way? (At least it was stainless)
2. Fiber or brass sleeve for the new bearing? Pros/Cons?

Thanks guys.

Michael
SV Adeline

[S/V Adeline]

For anyone interested here are the pics. There are several cracks in the rubber so it needed replacing.

[NorthernMac]

Interesting method of installing it, wonder why they went that route?

[S/V Adeline]

Originally Posted by NorthernMac

Interesting method of installing it, wonder why they went that route?

Original documents from Allied state the screws must be uncovered to replace the bearing, so I believe the design itself is original. I have no doubt what I uncovered is the previous owner's version of replacement. Supposedly this shaft I am replacing is less than 6 years old... I have already replaced injector lines that were *2* yrs old. I found the 3-way bilge switch soldered to bypass the fuse, bilge pump wires held together with 120v ac twist caps, many such fun discoveries.
My current thoughts are to re-glass what I just ground away, re-drill and tap new larger set screw holes, and just plug over the screws with 5200.
Hopefully I will never have to do this again but if I do, scraping out 5200 will be much easier than this mess.
Michael
SV Adeline

[OloteleMtn]

Replace with socket head/Allen set screws.

[NorthernMac]

Originally Posted by S/V Adeline

Original documents from Allied state the screws must be uncovered to replace the bearing, so I believe the design itself is original. I have no doubt what I uncovered is the previous owner's version of replacement. Supposedly this shaft I am replacing is less than 6 years old... I have already replaced injector lines that were *2* yrs old. I found the 3-way bilge switch soldered to bypass the fuse, bilge pump wires held together with 120v ac twist caps, many such fun discoveries.
My current thoughts are to re-glass what I just ground away, re-drill and tap new larger set screw holes, and just plug over the screws with 5200.
Hopefully I will never have to do this again but if I do, scraping out 5200 will be much easier than this mess.
Michael
SV Adeline Attachment 218882

I hear that, just replaced it cutless bearing and put a dripless and new shaft on mine as well. Make sure you hook up that water cooling line to the dripless to, ive read of some folks opting to leave it off.

[S/V Adeline]

Originally Posted by OloteleMtn

Replace with socket head/Allen set screws.

Thanks, exactly what I have planned. I was just thinking 5200 to fill the holes instead of covering with fiberglass again.

[S/V Adeline]

According to the manufacturer, if speed does not exceed 12 knots forced cooling isn't required. Believe me it's weighing on me as my engine raw water design does not allow any room to splice for water before it enters the engine. I imagine heated water post exchanger would be bad for the seal. I am wondering if there is some low pressure low volume 12v pump that could tee off the unpressurized raw water inlet.
I see by your pic you dropped the rudder, glad I missed that fun. Since the engine is in the salon and transmission being shipped back across the pond I just squeezed into the bilge and pulled the shaft in.

[NorthernMac]

Originally Posted by S/V Adeline

According to the manufacturer, if speed does not exceed 12 knots forced cooling isn't required. Believe me it's weighing on me as my engine raw water design does not allow any room to splice for water before it enters the engine. I imagine heated water post exchanger would be bad for the seal. I am wondering if there is some low pressure low volume 12v pump that could tee off the unpressurized raw water inlet.
I see by your pic you dropped the rudder, glad I missed that fun. Since the engine is in the salon and transmission being shipped back across the pond I just squeezed into the bilge and pulled the shaft in.

The main mission was to machine a keyway and install a arm on the rudder, since I was doing that I repacked the rudder with ptfe, bottom paint, zincs, shaft, cutless, dripless etc while I was there.

Not sure on your engine, but I just took a T off the loop

forgive the messy engine, I need to do some paint and tiding up



Just seems like if youre going to install it, cooler is better

[S/V Adeline]

Originally Posted by NorthernMac

The main mission was to machine a keyway and install a arm on the rudder, since I was doing that I repacked the rudder with ptfe, bottom paint, zincs, shaft, cutless, dripless etc while I was there.

Not sure on your engine, but I just took a T off the loop

forgive the messy engine, I need to do some paint and tiding up



Just seems like if youre going to install it, cooler is better

Our raw water pump is mounted on the harmonic balancer, and there is only about 3/8" clearance between the output and the metal pipe that leads directly into the heat exchanger. My thinking is if I tee into the suction side, water would be flowing the wrong direction through the stern tube.

[OloteleMtn]

The cooling water will come up the shaft log, as long as there is a vent installed on the dripless shaft seal; a hose needs to be attached to the vent with the outlet above the water line.