Cutlass Bearing

[kennys]

Hi I am changing the cutlass bearing in my 1980 Pearson 35 Sailboat. There are several things that don't seem right and am hoping someone can tell me if they are.
1. There aren't any set screws holding the bearing in.
2. The bearing is loose in the tube so I could remove it easily with my fingers.
3. There is a clean cut in the bottom of the tube.
Is any of that normal or is it all the result of a poorly done replacement by a previous boat owner. It appears maybe there was some silicone around the outer edge to hold the bearing in.
Thanks, Ken

[Bobby Lex]

I recently watched a few YouTube videos showing how to remove/replace a cutless bearing, because mine needs replacing and I wanted to see whether this is a DIY project or one I have to hire-out. The videos are quite informative -- I recommend that you check some out.
Regarding your set screw question: One of the seemingly experienced guys said that not all cutless bearings have set screws. Some do, some don't. So it's not indicative of anything in particular that yours doesn't have set screws.
Regarding your comment that the bearing is loose and can be easily removed -- that is noteworthy. From what I can tell, it is usually difficult to remove cutless bearings, sometimes extremely difficult. One of the tricks of the trade they use to remove the old bearing, is to cut (hacksaw blade) the bearing lengthwise to make it easier to remove. Even with the cut, it often takes a LOT of pounding with a heavy hammer and pipe to push the bearing out. Most new ones seem to be installed using a bearing-press tool, improvised or boat-specific. IOW -- they are very tightly wedged in there. So based on your description, yours is obviously not an acceptable installation.
Hopefully folks with more experience than me will be able to chime in on this topic and elaborate further.
Bob

[Delancey]

Would you believe it if I told you it’s properly referred to as a “cutless bearing” and that it is not named after a car? It’s true.

https://www.followingseas.media/blog...that-bearing-1

[PippaB]

Originally Posted by Delancey

Would you believe it if I told you it’s properly referred to as a “cutless bearing” and that it is not named after a car? It’s true.

https://www.followingseas.media/blog...that-bearing-1

Actually, “Cutless” is a registered trademark of Johnson Duramax (https://alter.com/trademarks/cutless-77180957). If the bearing isn’t made by Duramax it isn’t a Cutless bearing. Hence the colloquial use of “cutlass” (which also reference the cutlass that is part of the Duramax logo) rather than “water lubricated rubber sleeve bearing.” Lots of people make these bearings for boats, but only Duramax makes Cutless bearings.

[Tetepare]

Most are a press fit. They should not move under finger pressure.

Some have grooves, which I always assumed are for expansion.

You need a new one. So the question then is if you have to drop the rudder or not. You can do it yourself, but it's one of those jobs I find is more economical to pay the yard to do.

[Delancey]

Originally Posted by PippaB

Actually, “Cutless” is a registered trademark of Johnson Duramax (https://alter.com/trademarks/cutless-77180957). If the bearing isn’t made by Duramax it isn’t a Cutless bearing. Hence the colloquial use of “cutlass” (which also reference the cutlass that is part of the Duramax logo) rather than “water lubricated rubber sleeve bearing.” Lots of people make these bearings for boats, but only Duramax makes Cutless bearings.

That would be pretty funny if the guy had a Duramax branded bearing in his boat, wouldn’t it? Anyway, thanks for reading the link I posted before you commented since your comment was super helpful. I’ll go wipe my tears with a kleenex now and then put a bandaid on my boo boo to hide my shame of not knowing any better.

[Delancey]

Originally Posted by Tetepare

Some have grooves, which I always assumed are for expansion.

The grooves provide a means of ingress for the water into the interior of the bearing surface which provides the lubricity.

[Delancey]

Originally Posted by kennys

Hi I am changing the cutlass bearing in my 1980 Pearson 35 Sailboat. There are several things that don't seem right and am hoping someone can tell me if they are.
1. There aren't any set screws holding the bearing in.
2. The bearing is loose in the tube so I could remove it easily with my fingers.
3. There is a clean cut in the bottom of the tube.
Is any of that normal or is it all the result of a poorly done replacement by a previous boat owner. It appears maybe there was some silicone around the outer edge to hold the bearing in.
Thanks, Ken

As mentioned, these are typically press fit although I have seen set screws. Press fit is better since over tightening the set screw can lead to deformation of the bearing.

Commonly, to remove a cutless bearing, a hacksaw blade is used to cut through the bearing lengthwise along the axis. Usually along the bottom because gravity. Sounds to me like someone cut yours to remove it and then put it back in instead of replacing? People do all kinds of seemingly stupid things for reasons we will never know.

I would recommend replacing. Put the replacement in the freezer before installing to make it shrink.

[PippaB]

Originally Posted by Delancey

That would be pretty funny if the guy had a Duramax branded bearing in his boat, wouldn’t it? Anyway, thanks for reading the link I posted before you commented since your comment was super helpful. I’ll go wipe my tears with a kleenex now and then put a bandaid on my boo boo to hide my shame of not knowing any better.

More super helpful than your incorrect post.

Not only did I read the link, I’ve seen it before, and it’s just an opinion on the internet that a) gets repeated a lot and b) is wrong. And you pretty much proved the point by saying you’d blot up the blood on your wounds with a Kleenex-brand facial tissue before putting on a Band-aid-brand bandage. Abuse of a trademark doesn’t make it right. And since no other company can sell or advertise a “Cutless” bearing you’re automatically limiting yourself if you search for what you say is the “proper”:term.

You’re the one who came on here and corrected someone with bad information based on cr@p internet articles that are just plain wrong.

[Delancey]

Originally Posted by PippaB

More super helpful than your incorrect post.

Not only did I read the link, I’ve seen it before, and it’s just an opinion on the internet that a) gets repeated a lot and b) is wrong. And you pretty much proved the point by saying you’d blot up the blood on your wounds with a Kleenex-brand facial tissue before putting on a Band-aid-brand bandage. Abuse of a trademark doesn’t make it right. And since no other company can sell or advertise a “Cutless” bearing you’re automatically limiting yourself if you search for what you say is the “proper”:term.

You’re the one who came on here and corrected someone with bad information based on cr@p internet articles that are just plain wrong.

Water lubricated sleeve bearing, do you feel better now?

[kennys]

Thanks. The cut is not in the bearing it is in the tube that the bearing fits into.
The more I look at it the more it looks like someone cut an old bearing out and went too far cutting into the fiberglass. I have had a small leak inside the boat under the prop shaft which may also be from that cut.

[Tetepare]

Originally Posted by Delancey

The grooves provide a means of ingress for the water into the interior of the bearing surface which provides the lubricity.

Doh. Of course.

[Ziggy]

Originally Posted by kennys

Thanks. The cut is not in the bearing it is in the tube that the bearing fits into.
The more I look at it the more it looks like someone cut an old bearing out and went too far cutting into the fiberglass. I have had a small leak inside the boat under the prop shaft which may also be from that cut.

I suspect you're right. Someone may have used a sawzall to cut through the bearing, and with a tool like that it's really easy to go too far.



It's relatively easy to get out when the bearing fits inside a strut. Much harder when it passes through deadwood on a full keel boat when only the aft end of the bearing is accessible. I tried removing mine with a hacksaw blade and it was taking forever. I finally asked the boatyard to do it. I didn't get to watch, but apparently they got it out without a problem. I pressed the replacement in myself. It's a very tight fit.