Help me identify this please

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by wingssail

If the engine is not moved, and the shaft is straight, there should be no need for re-alignment.

You can easily check the alignment when you put it back together:

After the shaft is in the flange and secured then you slide the shaft and flange toward the transmission flange and just as they get close you check the gap all around with a feeler gauge. The gap between the flange face and the transmission face should be equal all the way around. If not then the engine needs to be moved by adjusting the engine mounts. Big job, try to avoid that. I've had my flanges off three times and the engine off the mounts once and I never had to adjust the alignment.

My bad, I have always regarded the checking of the alignment as well as actually realigning to be doing the alignment.

[skipperpete]

I was sent this picture of how not to draw off a tight coupling, this apparently occurred as a result of a clumsy attempt to use long bolts , a solid spacer and the gearbox flange as the puller. [ATTACH]266005

[Calif.Ted]

On reflection, might just give it a light coat of oil to "arrest" the rust and go sailing.

[djousset]

Thanks for the tips, I have no intention of taking it apart but do want to check the alignment. Can a feeler gauge be used without loosening anything? I also want to deal with the rust, and replace the bolts, one of which is in rough shape.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by djousset

Thanks for the tips, I have no intention of taking it apart but do want to check the alignment. Can a feeler gauge be used without loosening anything? I also want to deal with the rust, and replace the bolts, one of which is in rough shape.

No, the flange has to be loosened to insert the guage. Are you having a vibration issue that you are trying to address ?

[djousset]

It all started with some prop spin under sail that I felt was new behavior. At haul out I checked the cutlass which is fine so I'm working my way forward checking everything. I figured if alignment was simple enough I would take that on.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by djousset

It all started with some prop spin under sail that I felt was new behavior. At haul out I checked the cutlass which is fine so I'm working my way forward checking everything. I figured if alignment was simple enough I would take that on.

Prop spin under sail is normal and would nave nothing to do with misalignment.

[djousset]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

Prop spin under sail is normal and would nave nothing to do with misalignment.

The spin was surprisingly fast and lots of vibration so thought it was prudent to check the alignment.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by djousset

It all started with some prop spin under sail that I felt was new behavior. At haul out I checked the cutlass which is fine so I'm working my way forward checking everything. I figured if alignment was simple enough I would take that on.

Ok I may be wrong here but on most of my boats the transmission should be in reverse while sailing .
I don't know for sure with your kanzaki

It prevents freewheeling of transmission when not being actively lubricated.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by djousset

The spin was surprisingly fast and lots of vibration so thought it was prudent to check the alignment.

In that case, yes check your alignment.

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by djousset

The spin was surprisingly fast and lots of vibration so thought it was prudent to check the alignment.

What propeller ?

[jkishel]

Originally Posted by djousset

Thanks for the tips, I have no intention of taking it apart but do want to check the alignment. Can a feeler gauge be used without loosening anything? I also want to deal with the rust, and replace the bolts, one of which is in rough shape.

Checking the alignment should be straight forward: remove three bolts and loosen the fourth enough to place a .003 inch feeler gauge between the coupler flange face and the flexible coupling (red piece). Clearance should be even (.003 in.) all the way around; rotate the assembly 90 degrees (transmission in neutral), clearance should remain even all the way around, another 90 degrees, same thing, and so on through a full rotation.

If the clearance is not even all the way around through an entire rotation, the coupler flange and flex coupling are not parallel and the engine must be aligned. The objective is to get the coupler and flex faces parallel. The engine is aligned by adjusting the nuts on the motor mounts and/or sliding the engine on the mounts as needed.

If it is not possible to align the flange faces, there are several possible causes such as a worn coupler, bent shaft, bent strut or misaligned stern tube, worn motor mounts, etc.

If alignment is OK, suggest you replace all of the old bolts with a proper coupler bolt set. These are special bolts. You can get the right bolts from Buck Algonquin.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by jkishel

Checking the alignment should be straight forward: remove three bolts and loosen the fourth enough

I disagree. There is no need to remove bolts, just loosen enough to insert the guage.

[pendragon]

Originally Posted by djousset

Engine is Yanmar 2gm20f with Kanzaki KM2P transmission. Is this rusted part the output coupler?

There are two set (?) screws opposite each other, one has a nut and a hole in it for a safety wire and the one you see here does not. I assume this piece separates from the red piece when the bolts are loosened?

Answer 'YES' The rusted part is half of the coupling--- but WHY do you want to take it out? The rust does not effect the good running of the shaft nor does it effect anything else mechanically.