ZF hbw 150v engine alignment procedure

[chphotographic]

Hi all, sorry if this has already been covered but I could not find it.

Can anyone explain to me how to do an engine and shaft alignment on a ZF hbw 150v "V-drive" gearbox. Because the shaft goes through the gearbox and does not have a coupling like a straight shaft I'm at a loss as to what to try to line up. Also the shaft is only exposed for a foot or less, and it is under the engine, the whole thing is a knuckle buster and back breaker to work on.

Any help would be great!

thanks
chris

[chphotographic]

Some photos if that helps.







https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YSx...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18Jb...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Qqf...ew?usp=sharing

[DougR]

The gear box has an output flange, same as any other gearbox, and the shaft has a coupling, the same as any other shaft, so the procedure is the same.

Use a fleeler gauge between the coupling and flange and move the engine to get the alignment correct.

For example, if the clearance on the top of the flange is larger than that on the bottom of the flange, raise the end of the engine which is opposite from the flange to close the gap on the top of the flange. It's the same as a regular alignment except the engine is turned around in the boat.

DougR

[Sailmonkey]

There’s a coupler there. Alignment is identical to any other shaft drive.

[TrentePieds]

Because the shaft is solidly mounted in the hull, you need to align the TRANNY with the shaft as per normal procedure for aligning the flanges and adjusting the tranny mounts. Once THAT is done, the tranny has to be considered fixed in position and can not be further "adjusted".

With that task completed you proceed to step #2, which is aligning the ENGINE with the now fixed tranny by adjusting the engine mounts. Again, the standard technique applies.

Have fun :-)

TrentePieds

[ferrailleur]

Originally Posted by TrentePieds

Because the shaft is solidly mounted in the hull, you need to align the TRANNY with the shaft as per normal procedure for aligning the flanges and adjusting the tranny mounts. Once THAT is done, the tranny has to be considered fixed in position and can not be further "adjusted".

With that task completed you proceed to step #2, which is aligning the ENGINE with the now fixed tranny by adjusting the engine mounts. Again, the standard technique applies.

Have fun :-)

TrentePieds

sorry if I'm way off the original question...
on my boat (Catalina 27/Universal M 18 engine) the trans is part of the engine with a flange connecting to a flange on the shaft. I understand that the flanges have to be aligned.
Now you say that the shaft is "solidly mounted in the hull".... so why has my shaft dropped too low and rubbing on the stern tube? More to my inquiry: that same shaft is supported by the strut and its cutless bearing. Don't fully understand the alignment equation from TRANS FLANGES/STERN TUBE/STRUT.
Thanks

[DougR]

Originally Posted by TrentePieds

Because the shaft is solidly mounted in the hull, you need to align the TRANNY with the shaft as per normal procedure for aligning the flanges and adjusting the tranny mounts. Once THAT is done, the tranny has to be considered fixed in position and can not be further "adjusted".

With that task completed you proceed to step #2, which is aligning the ENGINE with the now fixed tranny by adjusting the engine mounts. Again, the standard technique applies.

Have fun :-)

TrentePieds

The HBW 150V transmission is a close coupled v drive, bolted solidly to the engine, so it can't be adjusted independently from the engine. (As seen in his attached photos) The engine and attached transmission are aligned in one step.

DougR

[stormalong]

Install a Vetus type 6 flex coupling and then do the alignment. The type 6 is no thicker than the standard coupling but it is wider. It handles the movement on the engine mounts between forward and reverse better than a rigid one and does not require you to modify your shaft. This is the only flex coupling I have seen that works for a HBW150V due to the shaft passing through the transmission.

I used a rigid coupler for years until I came across this flex coupling. When I replaced my 4-108 with a Beta 50 the factory suggested a flex coupling and because I could not fit one they specked stiffer engine mounts that transmit more noise and vibration to the hull.

[DougR]

Originally Posted by ferrailleur

sorry if I'm way off the original question...
on my boat (Catalina 27/Universal M 18 engine) the trans is part of the engine with a flange connecting to a flange on the shaft. I understand that the flanges have to be aligned.
Now you say that the shaft is "solidly mounted in the hull".... so why has my shaft dropped too low and rubbing on the stern tube? More to my inquiry: that same shaft is supported by the strut and its cutless bearing. Don't fully understand the alignment equation from TRANS FLANGES/STERN TUBE/STRUT.
Thanks

Most small, low powered pleasure boats have the shaft supported in only two locations, the cutless bearing/strut, and the transmission output flange. They have stuffing boxes mounted on a flexible rubber hose of one description or another and clamped to the stern tube. The shaft is short enough that it doesn't require an intermediate bearing to prevent whip.

If your shaft has dropped to the point that it is rubbing on the stern tube, most likely the flex mounts have compressed over time and allowed the engine to drop down. In all probability it's time for new flex mounts.

When the engine was first installed at the factory, the shaft would have been lifted up or down to position it in the center of the stern tube, and the engine mounts adjusted to match the gear box flange height to the prop shaft flange position. Then the stuffing box is installed and final alignment is made.

In your case, with the boat in the water, the flex mounts can be replaced and set about in the mid position up and down. Then with the shaft coupling removed from the transmission, move the shaft coupling up and down by hand and find the approximate center of up/down travel and block the shaft up in the middle of the travel. Now match the engine height to the shaft coupling height and then continue on to do a final alignment.

DougR