1st time replacing water pump; can I upgrade or need same model?

[SV__Grace]

I'm no expert either but even I know not to solder anything on a boat.

Use heat shrink butt connectors, properly crimped and sealed so the connections are solid and waterproof, especially important on a water pump the shakes and vibrates when in use.

You can experiment with connecting your indictor light to any of the connections. Your goal, if you want to continue using it, is that it lights up when the pump turns on and goes off when the pump stops, it's not rocket science and won't hurt anything to test using it. I would start with one of the pressure switch connections, but I'm an amateur so don't listen to me.

You don't really need and indicator light of course, BUT if your pump is hard to hear from the living spaces the indicator light gives you a heads up that it's working, and if it doesn't go off it gives you a heads up that your tank might be dry, system needs bleeding, or some other problem.

Originally Posted by Cool Hand Luke

I may have to live without it. I’m not keen on soldering. Not an expert and don’t want to mess with it.

But yes. The new one has two red wires going to the top pump. But look at the old one. The old one has the two red from the bottom going to the delay:

Attachment 239979

And, this is the new one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0073JNVK2/
Johnson Pumps 10-13395-103 Aqua Jet WPS 3.5 Water Pressure Pump, 12V

It's almost identical except the bottom cables (one goes to the pump on top (or is it motor on top) and one goes to the relay).

[SV__Grace]

Originally Posted by Cool Hand Luke

Also. What’s the easiest way to remove the disconnects. They seem stuck

Attachment 239980

Attachment 239981

That appears to be a wiring harness to plug into its mate that simply connects the wires.

If it's giving you a problem, I would take pictures and label the wires and cut the connectors off and re-connect with connectors.

What I've done to make it easy to remove my water pump for service is to use spade connectors (heat shrink, of course) for the two primary power wires so I can simply unplug and don't need to cut them and install new butt connectors each time. I zip tie the spade connectors and secure them with mounting clips designed for zip ties like this

[Cool Hand Luke]

My best depiction of the system

[Cool Hand Luke]

I just started taking apart the old one. Just trying to learn. See if I could clean it. I’m probably going to throw it out but if I can clean it and it works. Then awesome backup!!

Just to help others in the future. The bottom is just the click button for shut off. I’m guessing the rubber nipple expands and pushes the bottom push-button in to shut it off, I guess.

[Cool Hand Luke]

Originally Posted by SV__Grace

You can experiment with connecting your indictor light to any of the connections. Your goal, if you want to continue using it, is that it lights up when the pump turns on and goes off when the pump stops, it's not rocket science and won't hurt anything to test using it.

You don't really need and indicator light of course, BUT if your pump is hard to hear from the living spaces the indicator light gives you a heads up that it's working, and if it doesn't go off it gives you a heads up that your tank might be dry, system needs bleeding, or some other problem.

Yep... you said it best. The goal is for the light to go on when the pump goes on... that's the way it was before. I'll see... I'd love to have it, but don't need it. As you said... if I can hear it from the living space (which I do), then I don't really need the light. In the past... it was visual: if the light is on continuously, then tank is empty. Now, it'll be auditory: if I hear it on continuously, then tank is empty.

Originally Posted by SV__Grace

That appears to be a wiring harness to plug into its mate that simply connects the wires.

If it's giving you a problem, I would take pictures and label the wires and cut the connectors off and re-connect with connectors.

What I've done to make it easy to remove my water pump for service is to use spade connectors (heat shrink, of course) for the two primary power wires so I can simply unplug and don't need to cut them and install new butt connectors each time. I zip tie the spade connectors and secure them with mounting clips designed for zip ties like this

Awesome!! Just ordered the spade connectors and the zip ties. Great recommendation. Thank you!!

What kind of heat gun do you use for the heat shrinking?

[stormalong]

That relay looks like a standard automotive relay. That is actually a good thing to use with a pump. The pressure switches (and float switches) are not suitable for how they are used. By using a relatively cheap and easily obtainable relay the pump will last longer. It may be that the relay just needs to be replaced.

I have my pressure water, deck wash and two bilge pumps wired with relays. I carry a couple of spare relays. Since doing that, over ten years ago, I have not had to replace a pump or a pressure switch. I have replaced a few relays.

As for attaching a wire for the indicator light there are alternatives to soldering but for this connection soldering is, IMO, the best solution. There are crimp on terminals that will push onto an insulated wire, slice through the insulation and make contact with the wire. IMO they are prone to failure. That wire is probably to short to cut and add butt connectors.