Adler Barbour Cold Machine Issue

[sparty]

I hate to admit it but I still have not resolved my AB problem. I had too many other issues this summer so I just used ice for the few weeks we used our boat. However, I will be working on it in the next week or so. My plan is to move one of my batteries up right next to the AB compressor/module and connect it direct to the battery with #10 wire to see if it still fails to work properly. If it still doesn't work, I am going to send the module in for testing. If it works with the battery next to the module, I am going to run new wiring.

I wonder if anyone has ever had a bad breaker switch. I have one right next to the module to turn the unit on and off. It seems to work fine and the voltage readings are the same before and after.

[Richard Kollmann]

Daddle, Unless you have Superman's eyes you will not see the degree of low voltage spike that electronic module sees preventing compressor start up sequence.

[Rhythmsmith]

I will check my voltage at the module and see if I have a connection problem... thanks for the ideas. ... maybe I won't need a new fridge after all??

[daddle]

Originally Posted by Richard Kollmann

Daddle, Unless you have Superman's eyes you will not see the degree of low voltage spike that electronic module sees preventing compressor start up sequence.

Yes, I suppose the meter may not show that problem well. The temporary wire idea will work.

On the breaker issue. Yes they go bad. Some are like fuses, they are good only once it seems. A DC breaker, or switch has a hard life with all the arcing. If in doubt, swap it out.

[tzicko]

I had the same problem. Charging the batteries solved my problem.
Thanks
Tom

[rfarley]

Does any one have a copy of the old manual for Adler Barbour Cold Machine

How much R-12 is a full charge, I lost my manual and can not remember the pressure reading.

Thanks Ron

[Richard Kollmann]

I do not believe Adler Barbour in their BD2.5 manuals has ever given pressure readings for correct refrigerant charge. Correct amount of refrigerant for small mobile cap tube refrigerators is defined in liquid weight not pressures as pressures are not stable when ambient temperatures change. Most of these small icebox conversion units take from 60 to 120 grams of R12 refrigerant. Adler did send out a bulletin to their twenty seven recommended service people years ago recommending setting suction pressure at 8 to 10 psi in a time window after unit ran for 10 minutes and less than 20 minutes. After 20 minutes evaporator starts to cool and pressure will drop so raising pressure by adding refrigerant at that time will overload system.

The new manual from WAECO Adler Barbour for CU100 condenser unit with largest evaporator is charged with 220 grams of 134a refrigerant and says + or – 5 grams will change evaporator temperatures.

[Folie]

Hi everyone--- this is my first posting.

Last July we purchased "Folie" -- Cheoy Lee 32 Offshore, 1979 (Ray Richards) --- and the ColdMachine was aboard.

It was wired direct to BatteryIsolationSwitch with no circuit protection. I want to install a 10 amp protection and a switch to turn off (entirely) so we can leave it open to air out and not waste electricity.

I have already rewired directly to battery post so I CAN just disconnect the wire to turn it off--- but--- is a hassel.

Now-- the directions say is best to have a dedicated circuit breaker to turn on/off, and not a simple on off switch and a 10amp fuse right at the battery post---see pic from original documentation.




Please--- Can someone Tell Me Why?? (A simple toggle switch and fuse is cheaper!)

Thanks a lot--- Rick

[Folie]

To rfarley--- I have the Manual-- vintage 35 yr sold. Do you still need it??

Rick

[Richard Kollmann]

Folie, DC 12/24 volt power to module should come direct from battery or battery selector switch common post. Electricity 101 would tell you to locate Fuse or circuit breaker as near power source as possible. Protection whether it be an older fuse technology or newer type circuit breaker is to prevent damage do to a short as well as preventing fire or damage to end component.

Even though manufacturers recommend wire gauge and length of wire is recommending larger wire follow their recommendations on fuse/breaker amperage. Older Danfoss modules were equipped with an external 15 amp fuse new unit modules do not have there own fuse so they rely on fuse or breaker near power source. The health and longevity of this Danfoss system depends on its ability to use the larger power and ground wires to permit battery to be used as a super size capacitor dampening transient voltages from other sources.

With a breaker the expensive power off/on switch with its no resistance contacts is not necessary. Yes, a means of turning power off when refrigerator is not in use saves battery amp-hr loss. Inexpensive Breakers are a mistake when used as switches also. When Danfoss compressor sends an LED error code indicating a low voltage spike always check breaker and fuse holder.

[Folie]

So---

Is this acceptable??-----

A fuse (of recommended amperage) at battery post and---
a SinglePoleSingleThrow switch about 4 feet away in electrical cabinet??

Thanks very much--- Rick

[Richard Kollmann]

As far as refrigeration unit is concerned a fused circuit with a switch is fine. You must decide if wiring and parts used are correct. I do not like to see fuses or items that could spark and ignite gas vapors inside battery boxes.

[onestepcsy37]

FWIW I am hard wired to the battery posts, 10 guage wire, 10 foot run, 10 amp circuit breaker next to the adler barbour. Been that way 10 years now....

Sent from my SCH-I200PP using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[MelSnyder]

Originally Posted by Folie

To rfarley--- I have the Manual-- vintage 35 yr sold. Do you still need it??

Rick

Do you still have your manual? I removed mine from my boat and now can't find it. I have a 1981 model.

[captpeteg]

I had exactly the same problem with an old unit and had Richard Kollmann in Ft. Lauderdale work on it with no positive results. I had not run mine in a number of years and what happens is the oil in the compressor gets contaminated and turns acidic. This has created a problem with the compressor working properly for about a half hour at about +10 psi and then going to about -20 psi and stopped cooling. I am planning on buying a new system. U can Google Kollmann Refrigeration and go to his website. I am sure he would be glad to discuss this issue with u if u call him.