Adler Barbour Not Runnin

[dlauginiger]

I am a liveaboard in Texas and my Adler Barbour CU-100 just stopped working. The LED is flashing 1 (per minute) which I know is a low voltage indication.

With a digital multimeter, I checked the voltage at the "BAT +" & 'BAT -" terminal and sure enough it read 2.9v. Next I took out both (accessible) fuses and reinstalled them one at a time. The voltage read 13.5v until I put the 15A (Main) fuse back in, then it dropped to the 2.9v reading again.

It's obvious that something "downstream" is loading down the voltage. The (limited) wiring schematic shows that this fuse connects to the Red wire on the Compressor Control Module (with the Yellow wire as the return) but doesn't show anything else.

My questions are:

1. Does the compressor have a reset button that would alleviate this problem?

2. Is there are way to isolate the control module from the compressor?

3. Besides he "BAT" connections I see a + and F D C P T, does anyone know what they are?

As the unit is over 5 years old, and my warrantee is out, any help would be appreciated.

David

[newhaul]

First thing to check is all power connections for corrosion.

[DeepFrz]

It looks like a bad wiring connection, bad wire or your battery is dead.

[dlauginiger]

Already done, everything is clean. I also found the answers to my last question on the R-Parts website:

C-T connections are for the thermostat
F and + are for the fan
D and + are for the LED


David

[dlauginiger]

I just replaced the batteries and all the wiring checks out. The voltage doesn't go down until I insert the 15A (Main) fuse on the wiring unit.

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by dlauginiger

I just replaced the batteries and all the wiring checks out. The voltage doesn't go down until I insert the 15A (Main) fuse on the wiring unit.

I'm surprised that no one yet has suggested this:

Technical Tips

I had a friend who reported that his fuse was bad. Everyone else poo-pooed his conclusions, but it was a reality. Get a brand new fuse and check the wiring and connections.

Fridge Follies - Adler Barbour

Good luck.

[DeepFrz]

If a 15 amp fuse is dropping the voltage that much and not blowing the fuse then I suggest you check your wiring again.

[squarerigger]

Similar experience with the unit on my boat. Turned out to be corrosion at a junction block.The corrosion had also worked its way up the wire some distance so that had to be replaced as well. None of this was evident to purely visual inspection.

[Richard Kollmann]

Forget the volt meter readings. Have you followed my standard troubleshooting steps? Disconnect Black fan wire, Connected Danfoss electronic control module large + and large – using jumper wires direct to a fully charged battery bypassing the circuit board in CU100 stainless steel box and all of boats wiring, circuit breakers, switches and wire terminals.
See TECH TIP #1

http://www.kollmann-marine.com/tip1.aspx

[carambo46]

I realize you said you have checked the connections, but as Deepfrz and everyone has said it has to be a bad connection some place. it is called a high resistance open which will read good with no load then when the load is applied the voltage will drop. to prove this to yourself run a temporary wire from the batt to the Adler Barbour, to by pass all the wiring in guestion and fuses

[Richard Kollmann]

Carambo, Sorry, but you must think microprocessor in microseconds unless you have Superman’s eyes or an oscilloscope to detect a low voltage spike that will trigger Danfoss's electronic module to stop compressor.

[carambo46]

Originally Posted by carambo46

I realize you said you have checked the connections, but as Deepfrz and everyone has said it has to be a bad connection some place. it is called a high resistance open which will read good with no load then when the load is applied the voltage will drop. to prove this to yourself run a temporary wire from the batt to the Adler Barbour, to by pass all the wiring in question and fuses

Richard I did not offer any advice for the Adler, only everything before it.
As away to eliminate any possible bad component between the batteries and the Adler that can not be seen. I am only trying to isolate

[DeepFrz]

Richard, the OP said the voltage dropped when he inserted the fuse. Has nothing to do with microsecond glitches.

[newhaul]

I agree it seems to be a power feed issue our technautics did similar one day turned out the main feed to the fuse buss came loose tightened the bolts and no more issues

[Richard Kollmann]

It is true that 25 years ago troubleshooting these small 12 volt compressors was much the same but that is no longer true because system manufacturers have taken liberties with basic designs. Creative additions to basic designs like Adler Barbour’s CU models, Isotherm additional electronic, Frigoboats Keel cooler systems, Technautics off brand difficult to support compressors, and EZ Kold water cooled condensers. Each of these modified systems require a different troubleshooting approach. Unfortunately refrigeration companies will not advise end owners of the possible week point in their designs or their lack of quality control that will cause problems later

.David reported his CU100 compressor would not run and was reporting one LED flash code per minute. One LED flash code every 4 seconds can indicate a low voltage spike but one flash per minute is strange.

David’s questions are:

1. Does the compressor have a reset button that would alleviate this problem?

2. Is there are way to isolate the control module from the compressor?

3. Besides he "BAT" connections I see a + and F D C P T, does anyone know what they are?

I provided a set of instructions designed to answer the questions and correct his problem. Most likely trouble is another printed circuit board failure behind 15 amp fuse common only on Adler Barbour CU 100 and CU200 units. The picture of this board I included shows printed circuit failure on ground. In this case trouble LED code will range from 3 or 4 or 5 flashing codes. Visual inspection of ground failure is easy to see in back of stainless steel box, see picture. With fuse removed evidence of overheating behind fuse is enough for you to follow direction on Tech Tip #1 needed to bypass fuse area of circuit board.

If visually the circuit board looks good then bypassing all of the boats DC power grid would be per instructions is next.