Air Con pump and parts replacement. Please help...

[Cool Hand Luke]

The pump on on my Air Con went down. Bought a new one. Same model. Works great. Was fun replacing it and learned a lot. I actually enjoy working on my boat and always use it as a learning experience.

Old pump got super hot within a few seconds of turning on. It went bad. I think it was my fault though. The pump isn’t self priming. Needs pressure.

In any case. I have trouble finding parts. I need a new Genova PN34375 3/4x1/2 piece... don’t know the name of it. It cracked on my boat. Is it always plastic? Shouldn’t it be some non-corrosive metal?

What about the splitter that I have right after it? Would love to get a new one. But don’t know what it’s called or what size or anything about it. The green on it is corrosion, correct?

Also the L piece (maybe brass or some other metal) that’s on the pump directly. Would also like to replace it.

Sorry for the bad photos. Had to tape it up to prevent a leak. It’s temporary only until I get the parts.

Thank you in advance for any and all help and suggestions!









P.S. I also cannot seem to open the circular metal filter case from the seacock. I’m assuming it’s a filter to prevent debris from going into the pump. Any tips on how to safely open it up?

P.P.S. This is the pump that I have:

https://marinepartssource.com/1000-g...0150-0026-0100

[Corvidae]

PVC fittings usually work fine, as long as they're not in UV, or near an engine, or long pieces that can flex.

I use that same pump myself. The quality is real hit or miss. Get a good one and it will last years though. If your pump head isn't leaking, keep it around as a spare. And get a real strainer between the seacock and the pump, something big is worth it. Aside from keeping the motor in better shape, it will give you a place to pipe in barnacle buster once in a while to clear the lines. Barnacle growth is a lot worse if you go South, where you're also more likely to be running that AC.

[Cool Hand Luke]

Originally Posted by Corvidae

PVC fittings usually work fine, as long as they're not in UV, or near an engine, or long pieces that can flex.

I use that same pump myself. The quality is real hit or miss. Get a good one and it will last years though. If your pump head isn't leaking, keep it around as a spare. And get a real strainer between the seacock and the pump, something big is worth it. Aside from keeping the motor in better shape, it will give you a place to pipe in barnacle buster once in a while to clear the lines. Barnacle growth is a lot worse if you go South, where you're also more likely to be running that AC.

Awesome... great post!

yeah, the 1st one was approximately 10 years... I just goofed and ran it without priming it first with water pressure (since the pump isn't self-priming)

I'm having trouble finding all the other pieces to replace. If i'm doing it, I want to do it right.

What strainer would you recommend between the seacock and the pump??? What do you use?

Thank you for a great post!

[Corvidae]

Just realizing you mentioned priming it twice now. Which makes me realize it's mounted above the water line with the seacock down below. Which also means that metal fitting is a one way valve to keep the pump primed.

The trade off is that if the pump blows up, it's above the water line and won't leak much. The down side is that when that valve gets gacked up, it won't hold water, and your pump will die. Mine is just mounted below the water line, and I have large enough bilge pumps to keep ahead of that line on full open. So no priming, and I keep an eye on my bilge.

This is the strainer I'm using: https://smile.amazon.com/Groco-Intak.../dp/B002MJGVZ0

Which lets you use: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01C04H7U4

To pump in barnacle buster. I also installed a valve for each leg of the AC system, so I can put a bucket under each outlet as I pump the barnacle buster through, then let it run for an hour or so. Although I have learned the hard way, reverse the flow before putting the pump away. Some of the larger crud will get stuck in the line and need to be blown backwards or it will clog.

[Turtle Blues]

I use a large square shank screwdriver held between the stubs on the cap and a curved jaw vice grip or pipe wrench to hold back on the canister while turning, sometimes need to tap (lightly) to loosen, it has a strainer tube inside.
Broken part is standard plumbing supply pvc. If replacing in kind, do not use sealing tape on a male thread into a female pvc fitting it will increase stress leading to failure. I would not use a female threaded pvc fitting that does not have a stainless steel outer band to prevent fracture.