Beneteua Head

[garyj]

I have a 343. The holding tank is mounted above the toilet. When the tank is 1/4 full the joker value can't hold it and it leaks back into the toilet. I go through 3 joker values a season. Am I the only one with this problem and how do you fix it.

[hlev00]

Unfortunately SOP. Either replace the joker or the whole pump which includes the joker. The pump isn't much more expensive than the rebuild kit. I replaced two jokers. Then last year the handle started leaking a little and it also needed greasing so I replaced the pump. You have to unscrew the pump to replace the joker so the is no more work. If you replace the pump you may need to loosen the housing of the joker to redirect the nozzle to line up with the hose.

Many suggest replacing Jabsco heads all together for this recurring joker problem. I haven't reached that point but have started the research.

[hlev00]

Btw. Lots of threads related to this if you search the forum.

[MarkJ]

After you flush the toilet, switch to Out and pump till the bowlk is dry. Then do andother 10 to 20 FAST pumps in the dry bowl. This will foirce air along the pipe. Listen till you hear no more water going into the holding tank. The hoses are then empty and there is nothing to trickle back down... nor anything to clacify the pipes.

[goboatingnow]

After you flush the toilet, switch to Out and pump till the bowlk is dry. Then do andother 10 to 20 FAST pumps in the dry bowl. This will foirce air along the pipe. Listen till you hear no more water going into the holding tank. The hoses are then empty and there is nothing to trickle back down... nor anything to clacify the pipes.

he da man, empty the HT pipe and alls well,


dave

[mikepmtl]

I actually have a ball-valve installed in front of my joker valve.
I also have a second joker valve higher up between the tank and the Y-Valve.
And still I need to change mine regularly if I don't want leakage back in the bowl.

Whoever decided it was a good idea to put holding tanks in walls should be hung by his testies!!!

[goboatingnow]

Whoever decided it was a good idea to put holding tanks in walls should be hung by his testies!!!

On beneteau, they were added to the designs as an afterthought and they took up a nice locker in doing so, Having them high up , means they can gravity fed out. I mean 99% of the ones Ive used were just rigged as through flow!!. ( which is what I suspect Benny had in mind).

On other boats I was involved , I am now convinced that two things are necessary

one is all waste needs to be macerated at the bowl. , large diameter pipes ( 1.5-2") and pay attention to internal fittings that provide protruding 'lips' to catch waste on.

Tanks below toilets, and then macerated again and pump out using pump ( under water preferably)

After about 4 boats I got the system basically perfect

IN my experience electric toilets are the greatest boon to preventing holding tank issues. The hand pumps just push too much solid material/TP atthe problem.

Dave

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by MarkJ

After you flush the toilet, switch to Out and pump till the bowlk is dry. Then do andother 10 to 20 FAST pumps in the dry bowl. This will foirce air along the pipe. Listen till you hear no more water going into the holding tank. The hoses are then empty and there is nothing to trickle back down... nor anything to clacify the pipes.

This is the best advice!! I built our holding tank like a bene/lagoon and it's been flawless!! Just pump all of the fluids into the tank and they won't come back to eat your cookies in the middle of the night.

[mikepmtl]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

After about 4 boats I got the system basically perfect

IN my experience electric toilets are the greatest boon to preventing holding tank issues. The hand pumps just push too much solid material/TP atthe problem.

Dave

I agree with all that. I swapped my forward head to electric, but will keep the aft one manual. I wish it was the other way around (for guests) but I had a lot less space in the aft head to re-fit.

[hlev00]

When you get to the dirty job of replacing either the joker or the pump, flush lots of fresh water, then pump it dry as described by others. I've never been able to get all air into the hose from the head to the tank, but it's worth getting as much as you can. Maybe you'll have more success. Also be sure you have some nice long shaft screw drivers. I think the Phillips ideally takes a #3.

Assuming you normally flush with sea water, it is also recommended that you flush with fresh water occasionally. Urine and sea water combine to create the scale that builds up in the joker (and elsewhere) that eventually cause it to leak. Some recommend a fresh water flush every time the head is used. I try to flush with fresh at the end of every day we are on the boat. Others suggest to flush with fresh before you leave the boat for a while. No doubt, the more often the better.