Bilge water flowing back to bilge

[DeepFrz]

I saw the Arid Bilge system for $8xx. Try a search on the net. When I priced pumps etc. it didn't seem like an outrageous price especially with the controller.

[stormalong]

Originally Posted by jtsailjt

https://www.google.com/amp/s/lifeemp...ge-system/amp/

Here’s the link to the DIY system I referenced above. For $100 it seems like it might be worthwhile to give it a try to me.

Thanks for that. I was thinking along those lines with some enhancements. An Arduino could be programmed to measure the current through the pump and turn it off when the pump load is lighter (the pump is pumping air rather than water). Question is does a pump like that have a measurable current difference since the water is such low volume. For the pickup I was thinking of using a scrap piece of Corian. I have a bunch of this left over from redoing my countertops. Corian would be heavy enough to stay put. Also a piece of Scotchbrite scrubbing pad would make a great filter on the bottom of the pickup without holding as much moisture as a sponge.

All this may be academic since I really don't have a problem. I just like to think about these things.

[deluxe68]

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

I saw the Arid Bilge system for $8xx. Try a search on the net. When I priced pumps etc. it didn't seem like an outrageous price especially with the controller.

I just checked them out at the Newport Boat Show. Single pickup is $800 (approx), double is $1500, triple is $2,000. The 2/3 pickup models have more powerful discharge pumps and can pump water up a few feet.

[deluxe68]

Originally Posted by thinwater

Is the boat in the water?

Be warned, check valves can freeze!! I have seen this contribute to sinkings in my marina twice. Same with low loops in the hose.


Most of the contributors may undervalue this risk, because they are in warmer places or because they haul the boat in the winter.

I just looked up the owners manual for Rule pumps, they say NOT to use check valves.

I a going to buy the Arid Dry Bilge system and was considering discharge into the galley drain. It will be attached above the water line. Any concerns about getting mold or other bad critters backing up into the fridge drain. It (the fridge) currently is plumbed into the sink drain and the loop is maybe 6 inches above the attachment to the drain. Thanks in advance. I always appreciate you knowledge with water systems. I took your recommendations when installing a water filter.

[HopCar]

Originally Posted by deluxe68

I just looked up the owners manual for Rule pumps, they say NOT to use check valves

Some of the newer Rule pumps, such as the LP900, actually come with joker style check valves now. This style valve is far less likely to stick in the closed position than a spring or flap type of check valve.

[deluxe68]

Anyone have any thoughts regarding discharging bilge water into the sink/fridge drain?

[Poche]

Seems like a simple system (besides a bucket) is a directional valve in a cockpit locker so you can either pump your bilge with a manual pump or switch to the electric pump activated by the float switch.
You should be able to get most of the bilge water out manually since it has a check valve and then turn the valve when done.
The only hitch might be my manual pump has a maximum head of 1.5 feet but not sure if at that point there is reduced efficiency or it just will not pump at all.
Anyway, that is how my boat has been set up. Not sure how the arrangement works because the valve is in the shop getting un-frozen at the moment.

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Poche

Seems like a simple system (besides a bucket) is a directional valve in a cockpit locker so you can either pump your bilge with a manual pump or switch to the electric pump activated by the float switch.
You should be able to get most of the bilge water out manually since it has a check valve and then turn the valve when done.
The only hitch might be my manual pump has a maximum head of 1.5 feet but not sure if at that point there is reduced efficiency or it just will not pump at all.
Anyway, that is how my boat has been set up. Not sure how the arrangement works because the valve is in the shop getting un-frozen at the moment.

I think the problem is , manual or not, that the fluid is sucked into the pickup hose, but when the bottom ends starts sucking air, that fluid can not move any further to exit the hull.