Dickinson Diesel Heater Troubleshooting

[sv_pelagia]

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

Everyone with a diesel pot burner should add a temperature cut-off device (Dickinson sells them) as an extra level of protection.

I believe the Dickinson oil metering valve (sometimes call the carb) already contains an emergency shutoff ("fuse") feature:

A high temperature fuse is incorporated into the oil metering valve. The adjusting screw on the top of the knob of the oil metering valve is fitted with a fusible sleeve. This fuse will melt if the valve knob reaches a temperature of 165 degrees F. This will shut-off the flow of oil into the burner. Under normal conditions, the valve is at room temperature. If the high fire sleeve melts it indicates too much heat is by the valve compartment. Overheating of this kind is due to burning the heater too lean with the flames burning down in the burner pot and should be rectified before the heater overheats again.

In case of the release of the high temperature fuse, remove the brass nut and do not move the adjusting screw. Apply heat from a lighter to re-solder the link back into its original position which was flat on the top. Once back in place the adjusting screw will not need re-adjusting. Make sure to now burn the heater correctly with ALL flames above the top of the burner.

[Lepke]

IMO most yachts have a stove pipe that is too short. Sailboats probably for good reason. But adding a combustion blower if the stove doesn't come with one, will solve the soot problems. If you don't like the noise, the blower usually doesn't need to run at full speed. Sometimes very low speed is enough.

Also most diesel stoves need to be warmed slowly over 15-30 minutes. Otherwise you risk cracking the stove top.

[johnjuliano]

We bought a used boat with a Dickinson Newport Diesel. Ours has worked great after I did maintenance:

Clean the carb, as Dickinson has suggested in this post stream.

Clean the drip pot! When you look at the drip pot is it lined with many, many small holes and looks like it is made out of stainless (which it is)?

I thought ours was made out of some sort of ceramic. Clean all this built-up carbon out.

Disconnect the filler pipe from the bottom and push about all the gunk that has accumulated there.

It took this to get ours going properly. It works very well now.

[CarinaPDX]

Originally Posted by sv_pelagia

I believe the Dickinson oil metering valve (sometimes call the carb) already contains an emergency shutoff ("fuse") feature:

The fuse is only intended to melt when the flame is too low in the burner, where it heats the metering valve. If there is too much fuel in the burner the flame will be higher and not melt that fuse. For protection against runaway flames (e.g. metering valve stuck open) Dickinson sells an adjustable high temp shut-off valve (http://dickinsonmarine.com/product/h...shut-off-kits/) for this purpose. It is operated with a temperature probe mounted alongside the chimney so senses the heat output, not just the heat down low.

Greg

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by Trust

Pelagia,
I don't have either, actually. The prior owner didn't seem to have any issues with it/ or the flue length.

All the trouble, and I think ultimately, I'd prefer a solid fuel heater. I've got plenty of room for wood!

Anyone in the market for a Newport!?


JC

Are you using the starter fan to get it hot enough to convect properly?
Chimney length is important too.
If the pot is clean, all those little holes clear, and you've said the fuel flow is fine,
I'd empty the fuel bowl at the regulator, then open and inspect for debris, clean out if nessessary, they can get gummed up, with crud, most never look in there.

Then start with fresh fuel, # 1 diesel, and see how it burns. Don't use the tank yet, if it burns okay, unload that tank and inspect it, replace the fuel.

The fan is used to get a good air flow in the stove to heat it pronto. Drop in that small piece of lit paper into the diesel pool and close the door.
Regulate the fan till it burns like a blow furnace, that's what mine does, then you can regulate the blower lower.

Once it's hot, the fuel will vaporize properly.
Should burn below the fire ring, a lick to two will be seen above it.

Some updates, include a vaporizer ring for increased vortex and better plate heating, required for efficient burning of low sulphur diesel.
Our stove gets very hot, stack height is 2 1/2 ft, 3" SS Charlie Noble, and Deck Horn, from Stove Works, cast bronze with a Trough for water.
SV Cloud Duster

[CarinaPDX]

The best way to start a diesel heater is with stove alcohol, not diesel. When the alcohol is almost burned off then start the diesel flowing. This prevents most of the soot and black smoke.

Greg

[01kiwijohn]

Interesting. I too have one, with a minimum length stack and no damper. I works really well, I have to open the hatch to dissipate some heat.
If it burns off the primer fuel and subsequently goes out, obviously there's a fuel supply problem. Mine is fed from the main fuel tank, with a pump. I fitted a fuel filter specific to the heater. Before each use, I screw that super heater around to make sure it has contact. I also use that 3 legged plate thingy that goes above the pot, to compensate for these lower Sulphur fuels. Once the primer burns off, I always let it run on a higher setting, for at least 20 minutes, to let it stabilize, before turning it down. Apart from that, just clean out the pot, and use a small drill bit to make sure the air holes are open.
Oh, one other thing; I fitted the chimney overheat shut off. See if yours has one. You'll see a tubular shaped item, in a special bracket, clamped too the side of the stack, somewhere. If the stack were to get too hot (owner's preference as to how hot this is) it will shut off the fuel. Follow the attached capillary tube down to that valve and you'll find a button on the side of the housing. If it's been tripped, re-set it and you'll have fuel flow.

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by Boatyarddog

Are you using the starter fan to get it hot enough to convect properly?
Chimney length is important too.
If the pot is clean, all those little holes clear, and you've said the fuel flow is fine,
I'd empty the fuel bowl at the regulator, then open and inspect for debris, clean out if nessessary, they can get gummed up, with crud, most never look in there.

Then start with fresh fuel, # 1 diesel, and see how it burns. Don't use the tank yet, if it burns okay, unload that tank and inspect it, replace the fuel.

The fan is used to get a good air flow in the stove to heat it pronto. Drop in that small piece of lit paper into the diesel pool and close the door.
Regulate the fan till it burns like a blow furnace, that's what mine does, then you can regulate the blower lower.

Once it's hot, the fuel will vaporize properly.
Should burn below the fire ring, a lick to two will be seen above it.

Some updates, include a vaporizer ring for increased vortex and better plate heating, required for efficient burning of low sulphur diesel.
Our stove gets very hot, stack height is 2 1/2 ft, 3" SS Charlie Noble, and Deck Horn, from Stove Works, cast bronze with a Trough for water.
SV Cloud Duster

Here's a breakdown of the oil metering valve, and a good section on these diesel stoves, as well other facts, installation tips and parts ,updates info.
http://dickinsonmarine.com/support/d...alve-exploded/
SV Cloud Duster

[01kiwijohn]

That's interesting. The instructions, from Dickinson, say the flame should burn ABOVE the ring. Mine burns with a blue/ light yellow flame, above the ring, and the inside of the stack has a very light coating leaving no soot on the deck, inside the boat nor anywhere else that I can see.

[Boatyarddog]

Originally Posted by 01kiwijohn

That's interesting. The instructions, from Dickinson, say the flame should burn ABOVE the ring. Mine burns with a blue/ light yellow flame, above the ring, and the inside of the stack has a very light coating leaving no soot on the deck, inside the boat nor anywhere else that I can see.

Agreed, per instructions for the freestanding heaters.

I would think it should be same for all models of heaters on diesel.
Guess mines not completely correct.

I have no soot, and I think that's caused by under heating of the stove.
They run hot, temp adjustment works but I'd rather have too much heat, and open a vent.

Under heating will cause soot.
SV Cloud Duster

[michaelmrc]

ive got a dickinson newport on my 37ft pilothouse. its an excellent heating system but they are a little bit finicky. a trick i was taught by a long time liveaboard is to use a capfull of methyl hydrate before lighting. speeds up the preheat procedure and significantly reduces the soot issue. my heater was originally installed in 97 and still working fine. i have replaced the oil metering valve a couple of years ago as it was acting up. i absolutely love my newport even if it does require a bit of tinkering.

[Nord Sal]

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

The best way to start a diesel heater is with stove alcohol, not diesel. When the alcohol is almost burned off then start the diesel flowing. This prevents most of the soot and black smoke.

Greg

This is exactly what I do. My stove burns clean and does not produce soot. It's heated before the diesel enters the pot.

Using small piece of tissue and a small amount of diesel fuel works to light the stove, but doing it this way will produce black sooty smoke until it's warmed up. This doesn't happen at all if I use alcohol (about 1.5-2 tablespoons) to heat the stove before admitting the diesel.

Five feet of flue, No barometric damper, no pre-heat fan, no problems whatsoever.