Diesel Gelling in Cold Weather

[Chotu]

That’s good information, Gord. Somewhat reassuring except the big giant tank at the gas station may or may not switch over very quickly depending on how much diesel they are moving.

What about mixing some gasoline in? You could mix that in at a lower ratio then kerosene and come up with a pretty similar thing. Maybe 100:1 or 50:1

[GordMay]

Purchasing diesel fuel that is already “winterized”, for winter conditions, is preferable to using aftermarket cold flow additives, as the additives need to be added at the right temperatures [above cloud point], in the right concentration, and mixed in, so that they are fully dissolved. If not added properly, the benefits of cold flow additives may not be realized, and in extreme cases could cause operational issues.
Buy Winter Fuel as soon as it is available.

Cold additives [Middle Distillate Flow Improvers] don’t dissolve paraffin crystals, that have already formed in the diesel. They work by modifying the crystal structure, to ensure they decrease in size, and don’t build up, and form larger crystals, which block the filters.


Winter Diesel Blends:
Cloud Point is adapted to increase flow capability. This specification measures the temperature at which crystal formation starts in diesel fuel, and is an indication of the operability in low temperatures.
Pour Point, another important diesel specification, is altered to reduce fuel viscosity, which often occurs when the temperature begins to change, increasing overall fuel performance.
De-icers protect system integrity and offer improved performance at sub-zero temperatures.
Enhanced lubricity additives reduce engine and fuel system wear.

Talk to your local fuel retailer [gas station owner].

[Benz]

I had problems with a Bobcat diesel getting gelled here in New England on a very cold winter. Fresh diesel, newly bought, but extremely cold conditions with wind blowing across the machine all night.
Any chance at never turning it off so the burning part of it stays warm? Or draining the fuel line after turning off and re-priming with warm diesel (keep a jug in the salon) to re-start?

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Benz

I had problems with a Bobcat diesel getting gelled here in New England on a very cold winter. Fresh diesel, newly bought, but extremely cold conditions with wind blowing across the machine all night.
Any chance at never turning it off so the burning part of it stays warm? Or draining the fuel line after turning off and re-priming with warm diesel (keep a jug in the salon) to re-start?

Bobcats! Those bring back memories. I drove those a lot working in construction as a kid. Fun. Wheelies. Ha ha

I also remember sometimes using a block heater on them and other times not. I do remember them gelling once in a while

Certainly it could stay on all the time. Maybe. I mean, it’s thermostatically controlled so it would turn off sometimes. But having it on doesn’t really mean that it’s going to keep the fuel lines from gelling. Fuel lines run from the outdoor day (week) tank to the heater. They are exposed or at least not heated unless I install these things inside the boat which is not something I want to do because of the potential for diesel spills or leaks. I need very pure air inside.

I would much rather not do all of that extra stuff with priming the heater daily. . That’s a lot of extra work and babysitting. I would rather just make sure the fuel can’t gel when very cold weather is anticipated.

Still pretty annoyed that they don’t make a decent size gasoline powered heater. That would solve all of this

[Chotu]

I used AI to find the answer:

Howes Diesel Treat

Specifically, Howes “Winter Treat” allows use down to -20F.

https://howesproducts.com/products/w...iesel%20blends.

Keeping this handy for extreme cold stretches should keep things flowing.

Maybe I can also make things better by design and make sure everything is in a box and heat while it’s on/running will heat the fuel supply system too

[Kelkara]

Originally Posted by GordMay

The main component of grade no.1 diesel is kerosene, and it doesn't contain paraffin.

This may be my british roots showing ... but I thought Kerosene was just the North American word for Paraffin ... Does Paraffin have a different meaning here?

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Kelkara

This may be my british roots showing ... but I thought Kerosene was just the North American word for Paraffin ... Does Paraffin have a different meaning here?

Yes. The words are different for everything here.

Paraffin is actually a solid wax here. White in color.

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by Chotu

I was secretly hoping some people from Alaska would pipe in here

I live in Minnesota. As you may recall, I used to farm, grain as well as a cow-calf operation. I had a bunch of diesel equipment, a New Holland LS180 skid steer, several midsize tractors, and yes, portable heaters that we ran on diesel. I have scaled back and now just run a small John Deere 5410 tractor with a bucket, and a commercial lawn mower with a snowblower attachment that has a Yanmar 3 cylinder diesel.


I have used, and continued to use, all this equipment for snow removal. The coldest temperature I have personally experienced and operated diesel equipment in is -27° F. (-32° C. ), as measured locally and within a few degrees of the official readings nearby.


I also have lived in two separate houses that had fuel oil heat.



So this is an area where I know a thing or two from personal experience, even though I'm not from Alaska, the populated parts of which are warmer than Minnesota during the winter because it's closer to the ocean.


The first thing to understand is that you want to run No. 2 diesel without an anti-gel additive whenever you possibly can because it has a higher energy content, is cheaper, and is easier on the engine (better lubricity, less likely to degrade elastomers - that's o-rings, seals, gaskets, and hoses), and a longer shelf life. No. 2 is what you buy at the pump during the summer and what the bulk fuel dealers will deliver unless you specify otherwise.


It works fine down to 20° F. That's fuel temperature, so depending on where you store and how you pipe your fuel you can tolerate air temperatures somewhat lower than that with No. 2. Below that it forms the waxy precipitate that clogs filters and quickly gets to the point where the whole tank is a gelatinous blob that won't flow.



Ideally, below 20° F., what you do is blend in just barely enough No. 1 diesel to keep the diesel liquid. Ordinarily around here we think in terms of 20%-30% #1 and 70%-80% #2 which is good down to a fuel temperature of -20° F. In practice that's sufficient for outdoor bulk tanks and diesel equipment stored outdoors. That includes whatever additive package the fuel supplier puts in the fuel.


When I order fuel for winter use, there's ordinarily some No. 2 left in the bulk tank, and I tell the fuel desk when I place the order how much No. 2 I think I have and let them recommend a blending approach. This has worked reliably for me.


Now when circumstances or poor planning leads to diesel flow problems, the additives come out. I use "Power Service Diesel Supplement" in situations where blending isn't possible (full fuel tank, no #1 available) and "Power Service Diesel 911" when dealing with a gelled tank or filter. Both products are are widely available. You can get them at Amazon or Ace Hardware.


You can get kerosene, which you can substitute for #1 diesel for blending purposes, in 1 gallon and 5 gallon containers at most home centers and hardware stores. It's an expensive way to buy fuel but if you just need 10 gallons you're not going to get the bulk delivery truck out unless they owe you a favor.


With either additives or blending, it's important not to overdo it because everything you add to the fuel makes it that much tougher on the engine, less lubricity, harder on elastomers. With heaters it affects the air ratio so you get soot buildup.


Hope that helps.

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by Chotu

That’s good information, Gord. Somewhat reassuring except the big giant tank at the gas station may or may not switch over very quickly depending on how much diesel they are moving.

If you buy your diesel at a pump that mainly serves trucks then they are typically going to turn over their diesel inventory at least once a week. Sure there are places that don't sell much diesel but those are the exception and are usually owner-operated so you can ask and they will tell you what is in the tank. No place that sells diesel at the pump, will sell diesel that is seasonally inappropriate. Meaning that they are only going to sell fuel that is suitable for any weather that can be reasonably anticipated in the next few weeks. They will blend down their bulk tank by adding #1 as described above if necessary.


So the only problems come if you buy a tank of diesel in late summer or early fall and then let it sit until the weather gets really cold. Don't do that, or if you do, blend it down and pour in some additives.


Marinas are another matter, many of them anticipate warm weather use only.

[Chotu]

Wow!! Jammer!

A perfect guide! Thank you.

I will rely on the gas station then. But I will also keep the Power Service Diesel 911 around as well as the regular stuff.

I’m going to see if I can get some of the heat from the heater running to keep the fuel warm as well so that no matter how cold it gets, the heater itself will help keep the fuel warm when it is running all the time.

Really great posts.

[wrwakefield]

Hi Chotu,

I have had several different types of diesel heaters [e.g., drip, forced air, hydronic, etc.] on different vessels over the years in Alaska [and I have always had diesel vehicles.]

I found that fuel additives typically cause more maintenance in diesel heaters; as does running #2 diesel- even if it is blended for winter.

Therefore, I run #1 diesel [AKA heating oil; very close to being K1 kerosene] in a fuel tank dedicated to the diesel heaters in winter. There is never a concern about gelling, and the heaters don’t carbon-up nearly as quickly as when using #2, or especially #2 with additives.

Drip style diesel heaters may require recalibration of the fuel feed dial if not already calibrated for kerosene.

If I have some #1 left over in spring, I can add some Marvel Mystery oil to boost its lubricity and run it in the diesel engine.

We are lucky in that most fuel docks [and most truck stops] have pumps for winter blend #2 and straight #1 fuel. Ask around. We use 15 gallon carboys and can have them filled on location [e.g., in a harbor parking lot…] by a home fuel oil delivery service in most communities.

One trade-off using #1 vs. #2 for heating is that #1 has ~ 10% fewer BTUs than #2, but the extended periods between heater maintenance and no flow worries makes up for it for my use cases.

If you can’t get #1, ask what the winter blend temperature rating is of their #2 blend. The fuel station attendant may not know, but that info is included on their paperwork from the fuel supply company… If the blend goes cold enough to avoid flow issues, then use it instead of additives.

I hope this helps you keep warm.

Cheers, Bill

PS: I saw Jammer’s post after I posted. Spot on. I also lived in Northern Minnesota and then interior Alaska [think decades] and agree; winters are very similar in both locations …

[Chotu]

Thank you also, Bill.

That’s right. There are factors here that are not the same as diesel engines. I know if you can run a diesel heater on straight kerosene that’s the best thing. There is no build up of carbon and it works perfectly. So I can follow what you are saying about Diesel #1.

These are the Chinese diesel heaters. Webasto/Espar copies.

Would be great to get straight #1.

[Jammer]

If you want straight #1, your procurement options are:


1) A bulk fuel dealer. Ask for #1 stove oil, #1 diesel, or kerosene, all similar products with overlapping specifications. Around here it's a 150 gallon minimum. That isn't that much if you're using it for winter heat. You can put it in 55 gallon drums (available cheap or free, use a hand pump to dispense) among various other choices. This will be cheapest.

If you ask nice, you can sometimes meet them at their loading facility or at another customer, and they'll sell you a small amount of fuel, less than they would usually deliver.


There are a few specialty fuel delivery companies in major metro areas that don't have minimum as such though they may charge a delivery fee. Diesel Dogs is the local one. They'll come out and bring whatever you want to fuel offroad equipment or stationary machinery or whatever.



2) An airport. There's Jet A in the (often) self-serve pumps at many small, regional airports. Prices can be competitive, see here: https://www.airnav.com/fuel/local.html



3) A home center or hardware store. Locally they've switched to 2.5 gallon jugs in 2-packs which is in a less rigorous regulatory category than 5 gallon jugs. Around $8 a gallon right now locally. Home centers usually offer delivery.



4) Some gas stations have a kerosene pump though it's less common than it used to be. Gas stations associated with a farm store are your best bet if you're in an area that has some.

[Chotu]

Jet fuel $10/gal, no way to get to/from airport or transport fuel.

Would be cool if i could somehow get 100-150 gallons into my primary fuel tanks, but I can’t lift the fuel up out of them to the little dosing pumps on the diesel heaters. I’d have to run a lift pump 24/7 and they burn out very quickly when not enough fuel flows through to keep them cool.

Big drums are probably out because I can’t get them onto the boat and settled down into somewhere to store.

Kerosene at ACE is $12/gal plus sales tax.

I think I’m stuck with whatever is coming out of the diesel pump I can walk to and wheel back on a dolly. Probably 10-20 gallons at a time in jerry cans. I have a 12 gallon gravity day tank for this

[rslifkin]

If you were to switch one of your primary tanks to diesel, keep a small day tank up top. You run the lift pump for a few minutes every day to refill the day tank and then let the heaters draw from there (much like you're currently planning).