Does anyone know the manuf. of this thru hull?

[solecollector]

I have three holding tanks going to three thru hulls / sea cocks. These are a little smaller than 2.5" at the barb. They are on a Lagoon 440. Any idea on who makes these? I have to replace them all.... and of course there isn't a company name or logo on them....

[skipmac]

Looks like a standard, generic PVC plumbing valve. Available in various configurations but most commonly with female, cement in ends that you can then cement in a hose bard, threaded fitting or whatever you need.

You don't mention what country you're located in but if you're in the USA they're available at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware.

[solecollector]

I'm in Key Largo, FL... still in the US but barely

I doubt this is a PVC valve that you can buy at HD. This is a huge hole below the waterline and I just can't see this being a normal PVC setup. But I could be totally wrong-!

[skipmac]

Why not PVC? The thick walled grades are seriously strong, I've tried to bust one with a large hammer and no go. I would trust PVC valves as much as Marelon seacocks, maybe more.

Regardless, that sure does look like the PVC ball valve I put in my holding tank discharge line, except it's a Tee instead of a straight valve. Of course you can't tell the material from a photo, could be ABS, nylon or some other plastic or polymer. Take a look at this one.

Hayward QVC1020SSEG PVC Ball Valve Inline Socket 2 In | eBay

[Dsanduril]

I suspect that is a Randex marine valve. Standard 2" size (the "DN50-2" indicates 50mm/2" nominal size). The Randex website is crap and their "marine valves" page now links to actuators, but you can see crappy pictures here:

https://web.archive.org/web/20130224...ves/index.html

If you search this forum you will see that the Randex valves were used as seacocks in Europe for some time. I think the hard part for you will be the threaded union connector on the one side. The barb is easy, but the union connector you have on the other side is probably designed to connect to your hull fitting, and those threads are less than standard.

[solecollector]

Thanks for the info.... and yeah - their site SUCKS! Went through the contact form and after filling it out gave me a 404. I guess I need to figure something else out now....

Originally Posted by Dsanduril

I suspect that is a Randex marine valve.

[Sailmonkey]

Maybe trudesign?

http://www.trudesignplastics.com/marine


Sent from my iPhone using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[skipmac]

So is this valve screwed directly into a thru-hull fitting? If so, from what I can tell from the photo the threads don't look standard and will be the hard part to duplicate. Wherever the valve attaches, if you can find something that matches the threads then there are a number of options for three way valves you can use.

By the way, maybe a silly question, but have you tried contacting Lagoon?

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by solecollector

I'm in Key Largo, FL... still in the US but barely

I doubt this is a PVC valve that you can buy at HD. This is a huge hole below the waterline and I just can't see this being a normal PVC setup. But I could be totally wrong-!

I doubt you will find it at HD. It appears similar but with a different composite for the body and that threaded end looks odd for something found there. Wouldn't hurt to look.

You might try Grainger.

[Dsanduril]

What is the problem with the valves? From the picture (and the Randex catalog) it looks like the barb should be a threaded barb adapter, and so could be removed and replaced.

Is the valve difficult/impossible to operate? Submerging in mild acid (or one of the commercial products like CLR/Barnacle Buster) might free it up. If you can't move the ball at all might require several baths, moving the ball as far as you can each time.

If they are leaking at the stem or something along those lines then you're probably SOL, the seals in valves like that aren't really made to be replaced.

[George DuBose]

A half-million dollar yacht has garbage like that installed by the manufacturer? EU rules state that one must change their seacocks every five years. I guess they never saw a Blake's or a Wilcox-Crittenden solid bronze seacock. Skylark's W/C seacocks are 42 years old and are in perfect condition.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by George DuBose

A half-million dollar yacht has garbage like that installed by the manufacturer? EU rules state that one must change their seacocks every five years. I guess they never saw a Blake's or a Wilcox-Crittenden solid bronze seacock. Skylark's W/C seacocks are 42 years old and are in perfect condition.

About the valve on a 500k boat. That red handle looks like something I've used on a sprinkler system. I might be concerned about bronze being crystalized at that young age on yours?.

[Djarraluda]

There are lots of marine plastic valves throughout the world. There is a name something like "marulan" that I have heard of, but I think it is a material, not the manufacturer.
The point is that plastic as such is not a bad thing for the sea cock. OK, Blakes etc have some fabulous gear, but hugely expensive, heavy and still subject to dezincification if we get any electrolysis.
There is something about the EU prohibiting plastic skin fittings (through-hulls in USA) but I do not know the rules as to where and why.
Important thing is to limit UV exposure for most plastics, especially the PVC ones. PE in all its grades serves well and the newer Glass-Filled Plastics are fabulous.
Often, the colour of the handle is a guide to the intent of the valve, in terms of the fluid - Yellow for gas; Brown for oil; Blue for air etc - all part of the International colour coding systems. I think Red is the "general service" type of colour.

So..... Many plastics are great, do not dismiss them.
Some commercial survey licensing systems prohibit plastics, under certain conditions - but some do not!
Colour means little other than someone's intent to indicate something.

If you know the year of manufacture of the boat, ask the manufacturer what it is and where to source replacements.

Roger

[IRG]

Marelon are plastic and easily beat ABYC recommendations. They are the best for steel hulls - no galvanic issues.

[solecollector]

One of them wouldn't shut all the way so I decided to cut them all out and now have to replace them. If one went I assume the others would follow. But now I'm a little concerned on how I'm going to replace them..... We have the boat out of the water being painted (topsides) so I have two weeks to find these......