Eberspacher Hydronic -- Reading Fault Codes

[Dockhead]

I have the diagnostic tool sold by Autoteile Ost, but I've lost the CD with the software . Those guys won't let me download it -- they say buy a new one Nice customer service -- NOT.

So i really need to get those codes -- my Eber is dead again. The official manual refers to reading them with an LED and series resistor. But it's not clear where to connect them. Has anyone tried this?

[Dockhead]

OK, so the manual itself shows how to do this -- a 1 kiloOhm resistor and an LED in series between the red and yellow wires to the control unit, and the black diagnostic wire. The LED will flash, and the corresponding fault codes are explained in the manual.

All the Espar/Eberspacher heaters out there -- does no one on CF service their own?

The manual does not however tell how to clear/delete the fault codes in order to release the lockout. One source (Eberspacher D2 Diagnostic Hacking) talks about shorting a blue/white wire (this is a Hydronic D2 -- different model from mine) to 0V for three seconds.

I could swear that I saw similar instructions for other Eber Hydronic models.

Anyone have a clue?

[transmitterdan]

I don't know which unit you have. But all of them have a reset feature as far as I know. Put this into google either with or without your model number:

eberspacher reset tool

Also, there were some threads on this subject a few years ago here on CF.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by transmitterdan

I don't know which unit you have. But all of them have a reset feature as far as I know. Put this into google either with or without your model number:

eberspacher reset tool

Also, there were some threads on this subject a few years ago here on CF.

Sure, obviously it's possible to do with the diagnostic tool. They are available from various sources. But they are expensive and not really needed since you get the same data from a 10c LED PROVIDED there is some way to clear the fault codes without the tool, which is why I asked the question.

[transmitterdan]

All of them clear by holding a single line low for some seconds. The question is which signal to hold low? I think google will find it for yours which i think is a D10 same as what I have.

[transmitterdan]

This shop manual has instructions for reseting the lockout.

https://www.butlertechnik.com/downlo...hop_Manual.pdf

[transmitterdan]

Originally Posted by transmitterdan

All of them clear by holding a single line low for some seconds. The question is which signal to hold low? I think google will find it for yours which i think is a D10 same as what I have.

I stand corrected. The reset line is held high for up to 5 seconds according to shop manual.

[Dockhead]

OK, so in the event I couldn't find a 1k resistor in my electronics box so I gave up and took off the heater and boxed it up for shipment to Krueger, the main dealer and Eberspacher wizards of South England.

Meanwhile, though, I may have made from progress in understanding how the Autoteileost device works.

I am still astonished at how nasty those guys were -- nope, you can't download the drivers or software anywhere, you have to buy the unit all over again?

Well, I found the instruction sheet, and the drivers are FREEWARE, not having anything to do with Autoteileost You download them from here: TuneECU - Links. So, it would have been hard to give me that link when I called their tech support?

OK, but that's just the drivers. What about the software? There's supposed to be a manual here: www.autoteleost.de/Manuell/1027en.pdf. But the link is dead. Nothing on the German version either.

But I guess that once the drivers are installed, we are supposed to use the Eberspacher EDITH software. The diagnostic tool is sold on EBay as being "for Edith": https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEATERS-D...EAAOSwq7JUEXCX

So it turns out that the EDITH software can be downloaded from Eberspacher's official site:

https://www.eberspaecher.com/en/prod...-software.html

https://esparparts.com/techsupport/p...%2003-2013.pdf

I am guessing that with the Autoteileost tool hooked up and with its drivers, that then the EDITH software will work and Bob's our mothers' brothers.

To give an idea about how unscrupulous these Autoteileost guys are -- not only do they refuse to steer you to the FREEWARE drivers, pushing you to buy the tool all over again, but they sell their tool for 50% more on Ebay, than they do on their own site: USB Diagnose Adapter Eberspächer Standheizung | Autoteile Ost. Bah.

When I get my heater back, I will try to hook up this device and get it going, so that I'm prepared for the next time. If it works, I'll post instructions since the maker won't help anyone

* * *

We've talked a lot about heating lately. A hydronic system is just about the only reasonable way to heat a larger boat used in a cold climate. The big big big downside is that they go down regularly and can't be brought back up without professional help -- a huge problem for those of us sailing in remote areas. Mine goes down every two years like clockwork, and it always happens JUST when I'm far from service, and when I really need it

I am now convinced, however, that we can service and fix these things ourselves, if we take some time to study it. There is a wonderful site with detailed instructions here:

https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/Servicing.html

Bless the generous author of this site!! A treasurehouse of information.

https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk...Service_1.html


I think that those of us considering sailing off to cold, remote places and being dependent on one of these units should really learn how to fix them ourselves. The computer diagnostics actually make the process pretty straightforward. You just need the diagnostic tool on board and appropriate spares, including I think:

1. Glow pin
2. Flame sensor
3. Control board
4. Fuel pump
5. Circulation pump
6. Burner tube
7. Couple of gasket sets (they can't be reused).
8. Maybe a blower?

If you carry a complete spare unit -- which is not difficult, since they are surprisingly compact and light -- then you might not need the bigger spares like control board, burner tube, blower. This is also a good idea since you can just swap the heater if it goes down, and then fix the other one at your leisure.

Seems like a lot of trouble, doesn't it? But there's just not any decent alternative if you want to heat a large boat through and through (and not just the salon). I think it's worth it, but we have to understand in advance how we're going to deal with it when (not if) it goes down.

[transmitterdan]

For me the most unreliable thing is the control unit. It fries the blower motor transistor every few years. If you know of any D10 controllers 12V would like to know. Last time I bought one on eBay but can’t find anymore.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by transmitterdan

For me the most unreliable thing is the control unit. It fries the blower motor transistor every few years. If you know of any D10 controllers 12V would like to know. Last time I bought one on eBay but can’t find anymore.

Wow, that's a bummer. I haven't had that problem, thank God.

I did have a failed controller, early on -- kaching.

Another expensive failure was the burner tube.

Controller plus blower motor must cost more than a new unit I guess it really does make sense to carry a complete spare unit when going to remote places.

Do you have a way to read your codes? Do you service yourself?

[transmitterdan]

Yes, I can read codes on the LED of the simple thermostat unit. It blinks codes. The code it blinks says fan not turning. That is correct. The reason it doesn't turn is the transistor on the control unit is fried. The control unit is potted in some two part mixture impossible to remove. Thus cannot service it. A blower and control unit cost about the same as a new one. But can't find a control unit anywhere just now.. Will keep searching eBay.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by transmitterdan

Yes, I can read codes on the LED of the simple thermostat unit. It blinks codes. The code it blinks says fan not turning. That is correct. The reason it doesn't turn is the transistor on the control unit is fried. The control unit is potted in some two part mixture impossible to remove. Thus cannot service it. A blower and control unit cost about the same as a new one. But can't find a control unit anywhere just now.. Will keep searching eBay.

Oh, so yours is dead, too. Sorry to hear it.