Espar Exhaust Installation

[Sonrisa]

Hi All,

I'm in the process of installing an Espar Airtronic d4. My question is regarding the exhaust system. Our engine exhaust goes through a close-able seacock, which seems like a good idea just in case. I don't think I have any way to do this with the thru-hull which espar provides. Any thoughts?

Also - the dealer here just recommends the single walled exhaust hose with the heat shielding sleeve over it. I see that espar sells a much more expensive double walled exhaust hose for marine installations. Can anyone tell me which was used on their boat?

Thanks!

[hpeer]

I can't answer your questions, but I want to hear the answer. I'm trying to figure out where to install one in our boat.

[YOGAO]

On our cat we had a Hydronic system installed (made by ITR, a Canadian company). We have a double-walled intake/exhaust.

Fair Winds,
Mike

[Auspicious]

I have the double-walled exhaust on my boat with additional insulation anywhere I might possibly touch it in the engine room. Read the routing directions very carefully - it's critical. Also make sure the drain(s) are properly fit.

Shouldn't need a seacock. The exhaust should be high on the topsides, right under the toe rail.

Heater - high loop - drain - gentle grade up to thru-hull. Read the manual carefully and do what they say.

[YOGAO]

...for your consideration.

The intake/exhaust from the outside (the higher "hole", lower is the inboard diesel engine exhaust):

heater exhaust 003.jpg Views: 589 Size: 21.6 KB ID: 18947" style="margin: 2px" />

The "boiler" with insulation on the exhaust:



The intake/exhaust from the inside:



When the heater is running you can hold your hand about a foot away without any problem (but don't hang a fender over the hole, AND don't ask me how I know )

Fair Winds,
Mike

[S/V New Sensation]

Agree with Auspicious. I've installed both Espar and Webasto and both have a thru hull fitting that is designed to minimize the amount of heat that the hull see's. Unlike the engine the exaust is not cooled so it is very hot when it comes out. I've known people to have damage to the gell coat if they were rafted to a boat with the heater exaust out the side. It also only takes seconds to melt a fender if you put it in front of the exaust (don't ask how I know). Any valve added would need to be all metal and insulated or protected from contacting anything that high heat could harm (or obviously combustables). I've used the single wall exaust pipe but unless it is in a place where nothing can contact it proper insulation is important and if you need to penetrate a bulkhead definately follow the directions for proper insulation and air gap. Heaters are great but not having anything catch fire or be damaged by the heat is an improtant part of the installation.

[btrayfors]

The exhaust on my Espar D5LC is located high on the transom, on the port side just below deck level.

Nary an exhaust problem in 20 years (with two different Espar units).

Bill

[Sandero]

I've installed a D3L and and Airtronic 4. The exhaust hose runs very hot and you want to lead it up to a high exit location on / thru the hull.

The exhaust gas is very hot so don't let anything get near it!

The real concern is isolating the hot exhaust hose from other "things" in the boat in its path to the thru hull. Use a second much larger hose with perhaps some insulation inside. Over time it will damage anything resting against the exhaust hose, hence the second over sleeve. It's a must.

My thru hull has a screw on cap. I suppose rain water or a pooped wave could travel down the hose, the later being of concern. When conditions warrant the cap goes on.

The exhaust hose length is critical as well so as not to create back pressure. Follow the mfg's recommendations.

[Pete the Cat]

I have used the double hose on my Wallas Diesel heater for 15 years with no trouble. Exterior of exhaust hose is very warm where it goes into the heater unit, but would not melt anything. The center exhaust point might where it exits the hull, but I am not sure. I put it out the transom high. The unit came with a hanger that puts a high loop inside just as it exits the hull to prevent water ingress. I understand some manufacturers of units with this double tube arrangement (inner tube for combustion exhaust and outer tube for combustion intake) have noted a shorter life for the combustion fan motor because of the heat of the intake air--especially if you have a run longer than 36"--so I would keep the run short. I replaced my combustion motor after about 1000 hours when it made some interesting noises and I have a 5' run. The benefits of forced air diesel heat are wonderful--even used it occasionally in the tropics to dry things out. These units are not maintenance free, but worth the effort and not very complicated.

A friend put the exhaust hose on the side of his hull and has to put a cork in it every time he sails in any weather that heels the boat.

[scanmar]

Be careful. Wallas exhaust gas temperature and volume at the hull side is a tiny fraction of what a turbine heater (Webasto, Ardic or Espar) exhaust will be.

[Bash]

Years ago, when chartering a boat in the San Juans, I rafted up overnight with a buddy who was also chartering a boat. He got chilly in the middle of the night and, not realizing his exhaust was on the starboard side, melted one of my fenders. Another good reason to mount the exhaust on the transom.

I would not recommend a single-walled exhaust, nor would I recommend a seacock. That d4 will put out some serious heat.

On my boat, the exhaust port is not mounted as high as most others because I didn't want to get near the propane lockers. Haven't had any problems with it halfway up the transom. Make sure you figure out how the exhaust will effect your dinghy if you're using davits.

[goboatingnow]

double walled is really required. no seacock is needed just ensure you run a high loop before the exhaqust exit.

The optional exhaust silencer is a good idea, cuts down on the jet engine noises a lot.

Dave

[Sonrisa]

Thanks for the replies. Can anybody with the D4 comment on the noise level without a silencer? Apparently the silencer is 4 feet long? Is that actually true? That came from the Espar office of North America. If so I don't see how I can fit it in my exhaust run.

Thanks!

[hpeer]

I just got our D4 installed Monday and fired it up to make sure it works.

I ran out of time and had to leave before giving it a good work out and I still need to tidy up the installation. Exhaust run is near 8' of 1.25". More than I would like but...........

I mounted it in the engine compartment as that was the only place I could fit it. So far the sound is very reasonable without a silencer.

I custom made a bracket but don't trust my welding so I also have some short chain straps so it can't fall onto the engine. Ugly but safe, runs in the family.

If I can remember I will post more in a week or two after I get a chance to fool with it more.

Feel free to PM me if you don't see a post.

CRS (Can't Remember ****)