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Paul L · 03-12-2018, 13:46

I don't get your wire size calculation. If you use the Blueseas calculator at 10amps your 10awg will have about 2% voltage drop. Thats fine.

We installed a three way valve so we can fill either tank. When you have excess power, solar etc, you need to have somewhere to put the free water.

Capt.Don · 03-12-2018, 13:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul L

I don't get your wire size calculation. If you use the Blueseas calculator at 10amps your 10awg will have about 2% voltage drop. Thats fine.

We installed a three way valve so we can fill either tank. When you have excess power, solar etc, you need to have somewhere to put the free water.

Paul, I'm just going from the Spectra installation instructions, I agree, running 6 gauge wire for 10amp pump seems excessive.

Cherod · 03-12-2018, 14:36

super usefull thread

Cherod · 03-12-2018, 14:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cherod

super usefull thread

OMG,,, until i checked the price !!:

**Tellie** · 03-12-2018, 15:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cherod

OMG,,, until i checked the price !!:

Depends on where you checked the price at.

Capt.Don · 03-12-2018, 16:24

I guess price is relevant.

The 12v Spectra units cost more than others; however, cost is not the total deciding factor. When you compare the 12v units, Spectra, Little Wonder, Shenker, Rainman...., prices are about the same (as I recall, the Shenker and Rainman cost more). After deciding on the Spectra, I shopped price and felt good about boat-show discounts, +/- a bit, plus all the goodies.

Where Spectra excels is its efficiency, amps to produce a gallon of water -- the Ventura 200T makes about 9 gallons/hour and consumes 10 amps. In comparison, the 12v Rainman makes 9 gallons/hour but consumes 21 amps. For my requirements, I wanted the most efficient unit so that I could run off of batteries, solar, generator or while motoring. My house bank can support 12v 10 amp loads. One other value is Spectra includes ample hose, all the filters, fittings, TDS meter, pickling solution. Overall, a pretty impressive kit.

For a bit less than 2/3's price, you can install any of the 110 volt units (including Cruise RO). I debated the benefits of 12v vs 110v for a long time, thinking I could run the engine or generator to make water (there are endless debates on this topic). I didn't want to do that. For $2,000 more I have what I believe is the right solution for my requirements.
Also, rarely do these units show up used, and when they do, they command high prices. If after our cruising adventure, I can sell the watermaker and not be out too much (especially compared to my value while cruising).

Back to my original post -- I about 80% done with the installation. I've mounted the Clark pump under the starboard settee, and the feed pump and filters under the galley sink. I've run all the hoses, but haven't connect to the Clark pump. The pressure and flow gauges fit in a cutout behind the sink (very convenient). It's been a challenge to install to minimize using valuable space (we don't have a lot of unused space on the boat), while hiding the components, yet keeping the use and operations easy. I still need to route the seawater intake, tap product water into the tank(s) and decide on the electrical (I'm not running 6awg wire to the nav station).

Thoughts on tapping into the tank and using 15 amp inline blade fuse would be appreciated.

I'm excited about being this close to finishing the install.
Don

sailjumanji · 03-12-2018, 16:29

Instead of the small black tubing, you can use the white stuff sold as ice maker hose at the hardware stores. At least that is what Tellie advised.

Also, aren't you supposed to connect the flush to the pressure side of your fresh water system, and not to a tank?

Capt.Don · 03-12-2018, 16:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by sailjumanji

Instead of the small black tubing, you can use the white stuff sold as ice maker hose at the hardware stores. At least that is what Tellie advised.

Also, aren't you supposed to connect the flush to the pressure side of your fresh water system, and not to a tank?

Thanks for the ice-maker tubing suggestion.

Yes, what I plan on doing is tee'ing off the blue Whale tubing (pressurized fresh water) running to the galley sink. I have all the fittings and just need to cut into the blue tube and run about 8" of the 5/8's hose to the charcoal filter. It was a challenge to find the 5/8" whale barb fitting. It would be a lot easier if everything was 1/2".

Don

Tillsbury · 03-12-2018, 16:52

Is there a reason why you want to tap into the tank and not just tee into the pipe between the filler cap and the tank?

Cherod · 03-12-2018, 16:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tellie

Depends on where you checked the price at.

( without wanting to sidetrack this excellent thread ),, i checked around 6000$ , while i dont doubt that this is one of or maybe the best one available it is however out of reach of many,, i refrain from saying most as it seems more and more that one needs to be a near millionaire to go cruising nowadays !!

Capt.Don · 03-12-2018, 17:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tillsbury

Is there a reason why you want to tap into the tank and not just tee into the pipe between the filler cap and the tank?

The short answer is I had to relocate the fresh water supply: tubing, manifold, filter, etc. to make room for the feed pump. In doing so, I ordered an assortment of Whale fittings, including a tee, a couple unions, an elbow and extra tubing. I wasn't sure what I needed, and/or whether I could extend the tubing (with unions) or replace. I ended up replacing the longer runs to the water tanks (easy and less connections). The Whale system is very easy to connect/disconnect, and the fittings are inexpensive.

Now that I've exposed the sink plumbing, I certainly could have used a threaded tee between the Whale fitting and the faucet (I think these are 1/2" NPT), though would still need 1/2" NPT to 5/8" barb fitting. In my case, this connection would not be as convenient as cutting into the Whale tubing.

The one thing I like about plumbing, is it either works or doesn't. Leaks will be obvious (I had one and the system wouldn't pressurize). There are so many different ways to install!

Don

Capt.Don · 03-12-2018, 18:21

To further add to this discussion, one of the more controversial decisions I made was to tee the brine discharge to the sink discharge. Spectra (and Tellie) recommend a dedicated thruhull above the waterline. I didn't want to punch a hole in the side of the boat. I originally thought about tapping into the skupper drains. This would have entailed 20'+ of run. As I discovered with the electrical, there's no easy way to route this and it probably too long. Since I had to reroute the sink drain hose to make room for the pump, I decided to tap into this line. This turned out to pretty easy. A 1" barb x 3/4" NPT x 1" barb tee, 3/4" MNPT to 5/8" FNPT coupler and 5/8" MNTP to 5/8" barb (I was pleased to figure this out, after countless trips to the local hardware store).

There are numerous debates about this. The primary concern is to be able to visually view the brine discharge. I suspect this is true for initial operations and/or troubleshooting problems. Other concerns about using the sink drain is smell and possibly backing into the sink (thruhull is closed).

Time will tell if this was a reasonable compromise.
Don

belizesailor · 03-12-2018, 18:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt.Don

To further add to this discussion, one of the more controversial decisions I made was to tee the brine discharge to the sink discharge. Spectra (and Tellie) recommend a dedicated thruhull above the waterline. I didn't want to punch a hole in the side of the boat. I originally thought about tapping into the skupper drains. This would have entailed 20'+ of run. As I discovered with the electrical, there's no easy way to route this and it probably too long. Since I had to reroute the sink drain hose to make room for the pump, I decided to tap into this line. This turned out to pretty easy. A 1" barb x 3/4" NPT x 1" barb tee, 3/4" MNPT to 5/8" FNPT coupler and 5/8" MNTP to 5/8" barb (I was pleased to figure this out, after countless trips to the local hardware store).

There are numerous debates about this. The primary concern is to be able to visually view the brine discharge. I suspect this is true for initial operations and/or troubleshooting problems. Other concerns about using the sink drain is smell and possibly backing into the sink (thruhull is closed).

Time will tell if this was a reasonable compromise.
Don

Viewing the brine discharge is a simple and often useful diagnostic.

**Tellie** · 03-12-2018, 19:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt.Don

I guess price is relevant.

The 12v Spectra units cost more than others; however, cost is not the total deciding factor. When you compare the 12v units, Spectra, Little Wonder, Shenker, Rainman...., prices are about the same (as I recall, the Shenker and Rainman cost more). After deciding on the Spectra, I shopped price and felt good about boat-show discounts, +/- a bit, plus all the goodies.

Where Spectra excels is its efficiency, amps to produce a gallon of water -- the Ventura 200T makes about 9 gallons/hour and consumes 10 amps. In comparison, the 12v Rainman makes 9 gallons/hour but consumes 21 amps. For my requirements, I wanted the most efficient unit so that I could run off of batteries, solar, generator or while motoring. My house bank can support 12v 10 amp loads. One other value is Spectra includes ample hose, all the filters, fittings, TDS meter, pickling solution. Overall, a pretty impressive kit.

For a bit less than 2/3's price, you can install any of the 110 volt units (including Cruise RO). I debated the benefits of 12v vs 110v for a long time, thinking I could run the engine or generator to make water (there are endless debates on this topic). I didn't want to do that. For $2,000 more I have what I believe is the right solution for my requirements.
Also, rarely do these units show up used, and when they do, they command high prices. If after our cruising adventure, I can sell the watermaker and not be out too much (especially compared to my value while cruising).

Back to my original post -- I about 80% done with the installation. I've mounted the Clark pump under the starboard settee, and the feed pump and filters under the galley sink. I've run all the hoses, but haven't connect to the Clark pump. The pressure and flow gauges fit in a cutout behind the sink (very convenient). It's been a challenge to install to minimize using valuable space (we don't have a lot of unused space on the boat), while hiding the components, yet keeping the use and operations easy. I still need to route the seawater intake, tap product water into the tank(s) and decide on the electrical (I'm not running 6awg wire to the nav station).

Thoughts on tapping into the tank and using 15 amp inline blade fuse would be appreciated.

I'm excited about being this close to finishing the install.
Don

Just want to jump in here to support the highlighted above. While it is not a disparaging remark about the quality of other brands, Don is absolutely correct. I get calls every week from people looking for a good used Spectra. They are harder than Hens teeth to find. But a well taken care of Spectra 200T in four or five years will easily command at least half the price of a new unit. So it can be a much better financial decision in the long run if you have in mind to sell it when you are through. That being said, and it's not meant to drum up business, but if any of you do find a used Spectra that you might be interested in, a call to me might be a good idea.