Heating options

[goat]

Originally Posted by Pizzazz

Am I missing something? It would be the easiest solution to add a vented ss enclosure to my Original stove.

You want simple? I've got a 27 foot boat, well insulated, when I had it in So Cal I'd just use a oil lantern to heat the cabin. I've got a force 10 kerosene heater that I've only used to see if it worked.
I'm probably going to rip it out and sell it, to get rid of one more type of fuel.
My new heat source? A three pound kirkland coffee can with holes punched in it atop the origo. The fiddles hold it secure.
Does it work? Hell if I know, I'm in Mexico. But I'm ready.
Caveat; when in So Cal I was commuting from northern Alberta, so a cold day in LA bay was nearly 100 of your (and Myanmar's) farenheit degrees. California might feel cold to me now.

goat

[Dave9111]

You are overthinking this (been there, done that).

Get yourself a little portable propane heater - Mr Heater Buddy Heater or Big Buddy heater. (about $100)

They are entirely portable and use 1 lb gas cylinders. A 1 lb gas cylinder will get you through the night on low power. The big buddy heater takes two - 1 lb cylinders. Buy the cylinders 6 at a time at Walmart or Sams and they are fairly cheap.

When you don't need it, stick it in a locker. It will make all the difference. Problem solved and you didn't even need to drive a screw.

Now propane does make some water vapor when it burns, but you won't notice it. Keep a vent cracked.

On my 33ft sailboat I mounted a regular household wall mount propane heater that puts out 9,000 btu. I put a 10 lb propane tank on the stern rail along with the regulator and ran 3/8" copper tubing into the boat to distribute low pressure propane. I also bought a carbon monoxide sensor alarm that is battery powered. The 9000btu heater can overheat the cabin when it is 40 degrees outside. (Yes, and it gets even colder than that!) I've been snug and warm in the cabin at night when snow is falling outside. (I like late season sailing)

In the midwest, we oftentimes still have the AC on when its 65 outside...

[DeborahLee]

I installed a Red Dot heater ($110) in the cooling water line (like a car) so I have heat when using the engine and not burning more fuel just for heat. At night I have a 12V electric blanket ($35) for nights that are @ 50. For the cold nights I run my Honda 2000 and use a ceramic heater ($30)

[Dave9111]

Originally Posted by DeborahLee

I installed a Red Dot heater ($110) in the cooling water line (like a car) so I have heat when using the engine and not burning more fuel just for heat. At night I have a 12V electric blanket ($35) for nights that are @ 50. For the cold nights I run my Honda 2000 and use a ceramic heater ($30)

Where did you buy a 12 volt electric blanket for $35 ????

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by Dave9111

Where did you buy a 12 volt electric blanket for $35 ????

There are several even less than that.
Gotta love Google
https://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF...ectric+blanket

[DeepFrz]

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

Part of the issue with hydronic heaters that I'm inquiring after is that many folks want to use the hot water in the heating system both to heat the boat, as well as for showers, & washing dishes, etc. And if you do this then it means you'll be refilling the system pretty regularly. Which if you're using anything but steam distilled, or RO mfd. water, you'll be adding a lot of minerals & chemicals to the system. As tap water/marina water is anything but pure. So that when boiled, or heated sufficiently, it produces scaling.

Niet. The potable water system is heated via heat exchanger as it is with the engine heating the potable water system.

The heating system coolant is a mixture of descaled water and antifreeze, usually on around a 50/50 mix.

[Pizzazz]

Thank you all, I think it is a nice discussion. I agree that I am overthinking this but it is fun.

I have decided to just use by Origo stove for heating if need be (equivalent to an unvented propane heater). I found a great alcohol fireplace online (link below) that is 2000 BTUs but can be used anywhere on the boat, even in the cockpit, for ambience and some heat. Alternatively, I can mount the glass cylinder from the fireplace on top of the Origo and vent it if I need more heat. The beauty of alcohol fireplaces is that they provide radiation heat which is what you want on a boat. A Mr. Buddy could work as well.

Further, I did some calculations on CO2 production from alcohol vs. an average person breathing overnight and it seems that the CO2 produced from the alcohol fireplace would be equivalent to three more people sleeping on the boat. While this is not that much I have come to the conclusion that I need more boat ventilation, especially in the aft cabin, so I will take care of that as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...I8URBGKA&psc=1

My last idea (definitely overthinking) is to use a small (think air-cooled fridge sized) radiator ($17 on Amazon) to circulate seawater through it and feed outside air through it and inside the boat. The idea is that if the water temp is 65F and the outside temp is 45-50F, the incoming air will be warmed up a bit at very little current draw. This system would work both when it is very cold and very warm (imagine 90F outside, 65F water temp, for a 25F differential). Not sure how efficient it would be, will let you know.

[CaptTom]

Originally Posted by Pizzazz

My last idea (definitely overthinking) is to use a small (think air-cooled fridge sized) radiator ($17 on Amazon) to circulate seawater through it and feed outside air through it and inside the boat. The idea is that if the water temp is 65F and the outside temp is 45-50F, the incoming air will be warmed up a bit at very little current draw. This system would work both when it is very cold and very warm (imagine 90F outside, 65F water temp, for a 25F differential). Not sure how efficient it would be, will let you know.

I've been "overthinking" that sort of thing since the mid-70's oil crisis. The same theory works for homes as well; use cool night air during summer, along with thermal mass, or use below-freezing outdoor air in winter to keep the fridge cold, etc.

On boats, it's even better. Up here in New England the water rarely reaches 70F, even when it can be in the high 90s and humid outside. Admittedly, in winter we're left with fewer options than in your climate.

I can only assume that, since this sort of thing has been talked about for decades but never widely implemented, it's probably not as practical as it would seem at first glance. I still like to hear others' thoughts on it though...

[GILow]

Originally Posted by Pizzazz

My last idea (definitely overthinking) is to use a small (think air-cooled fridge sized) radiator ($17 on Amazon) to circulate seawater through it and feed outside air through it and inside the boat. The idea is that if the water temp is 65F and the outside temp is 45-50F, the incoming air will be warmed up a bit at very little current draw. This system would work both when it is very cold and very warm (imagine 90F outside, 65F water temp, for a 25F differential). Not sure how efficient it would be, will let you know.

Elegant, but likely to be disappointing. The rate of heat transfer is proportional to the temperature difference, and that's not much of a temperature difference.

Still, I like an out-of-the-box idea as much as the next guy so I agree it is worth trying.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by GILow

Elegant, but likely to be disappointing. The rate of heat transfer is proportional to the temperature difference, and that's not much of a temperature difference.

Still, I like an out-of-the-box idea as much as the next guy so I agree it is worth trying.

I wouldn't try it before doing the actual math. It's silly to waste materials and labor withOUT running the numbers. I would be astonished if you could get more than a 0.1 degree temperature rise out of that system, but the numbers will not lie.

And as to the other ideas -- I strongly recommend to the OP NOT to consider any kind of heating which vents the combustion products into the cabin. It's just a really bad idea. Remember burning any kind of hydrocarbon produces water vapor as well as CO2, some amount of deadly CO, and some other kind of nasty things -- in the case of alcohol -- formaldehyde. Just don't do it -- it's nasty at best and unhealthy and even dangerous at worst.

And for God's sake, not any kind of portable propane heater, which is a menace on boats and will no doubt void any insurance.

[GILow]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

I wouldn't try it before doing the actual math. It's silly to waste materials and labor with running the numbers. I would be astonished if you could get more than a 0.1 degree temperature rise out of that system, but the numbers will not lie.
.

Hey, you party pooper! Don't bring facts into it. :^)

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by GILow

Hey, you party pooper! Don't bring facts into it. :^)

LOL, Thanks for starting my day of with a SMILE

[GILow]

Originally Posted by UNCIVILIZED

LOL, Thanks for starting my day of with a SMILE

That's odd the day is just finishing up here.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by GILow

Hey, you party pooper! Don't bring facts into it. :^)

"WithOUT running the numbers", of course. Darned spell corrector.

[GILow]

Originally Posted by Dockhead

"WithOUT running the numbers", of course. Darned spell corrector.

Funny that, I didn't notice the typo, but I am pretty sure I would have known what you meant if I had noticed.

So if you notice this notice you will notice it is not worth noticing.