High clean water level in toilet bowl

[sinnerman]

Originally Posted by John320

Just a thought Peggie. If I find that the loop looks adequate, would it help if I were to fit a loop vent to the 3/4" line?
Thanks
John

Maybe install the anti-siphon downstream of the pump (i.e. between the pump and the toilet...)

Or install a simple ball valve just before the pump and close the valve after flushing the toilet:

https://www.amazon.com/Homewerks-VBV...46533088&psc=1

[wingssail]

Water does not generally come into our toilet because we try to keep the valves serviced and clear and we keep the intake valve closed unless flushing.

However, another change we made was to raise the toilet about 8 inches to allow a bigger holding tank which is installed beneath the toilet. This places the toilet well above the natural waterline and the bowl does not fill even if the valves are left open.

[Montanan]

When it comes to issues with the head, I am one of those glass is half full kind of guys. Better to have a high CLEAN water level, than high Brown/Yellow water level.

Albeit I perceive that clean water will not remain in the bowl for long once you heel or start making motion in seaway. High water level in a bowl or sink being a self regulating and self resolving issue on board vessels.

[Clivevon]

I have a Lavac loo also. 40 years old & going strong - just change the seat & lid seals every now & then.
Will get to your water level in a minute - I have had that problem & am trying to remember how it got solved.
Yes you should definitely have a high loop on both the inlet & outlet hoses going right up tight underneath your side deck. Also you do need an anti syphon hole at the top of the loop on your inlet hose. This is where it gets interesting...
The hole needs to be no more than a pinhole - otherwise you wont be able to achieve vacuum & the flush just wont work.
You could just make a hole in the hose but that wont be easy (pin not strong enough to penetrate the hose). So you can buy a special anti siphon 'U' fitting with a larger hole which accepts a small rubber plug - & you can buy those plugs with several different hole sizes to see which works best.
I have a feeling also that the size of that small hole also impacts on the level the seawater gets to in the loo bowl. I will see if I can check on that though.

[Clivevon]

I always leave my loo seacocks open while on the boat - including at sea - & havent sunk yet - so I know I have solved the bowl water level issue. But there was a time when it was just as high as in your pic - you had to pump it out before you could put more 'water' in, if you get my drift - & it could slop over into the heads so not good.

[Clivevon]

Actually the only thing I changed was the anti syphon loop to allow me to put in plugs with different sized holes. I dont have that problem any more. & the flush works much better. It did bring a different issue though. It takes much longer for the anti syphon loop to break the vacuum after flushing - now after flushing, you have to wait maybe 2 to 3 minutes before you can lift the lid - which can be inconvenient if you are multiple flushing to avoid flushing too much loo paper all at once ( I know - too much information). You musnt force the lid open or else you will distort the seat & lid which will mean they wont seal properly so your flush wont work...
Wonderful things, boat loos. I explained how it worked to the wife & she immediately said "I'm not doing that " & insisted I fitted an electric one in the aft cabin....

[Clivevon]

Not actually in the cabin, of course - in the aft heads... She may be Australian but she's not that wild..

[John320]

Thanks Martin,
I've had a lot of help from Peggie Hall on this one so I'm going to rearrange things as they should be according to the manufacturers drawings. When I'm done and it's successful, I'll post for others to see. Might help someone else in the future
John

[Clivevon]

Extracted from Lavac Q & As:
Q Too much water in bowl
A No bleed plug or bleed plug with too small a hole in inlet hose - Fit Bleed plug or enlarge hole until vacuum breaks more quickly.

The bleed plug will be the one in your anti syphon fitting I talked about earlier.

[Clivevon]

Here are the rest of the Lavac Q & A's :


LAVAC Toilets

Q Water isn't coming into the bowl
A Seat and/or lid seal worn - replace; Bleed plug has been removed - replace; Lid cracked, breaking vacuum - replace; Seat not flat on bowl rim, lid not flat on seat - Adjust hinge till both flat. Electric versions - Increase 'runtime' of pump by adjusting screw rear of push button.

Q Insufficient water enters bowl
A As above + possibly too large hole in bleed plug - Replace; Too great a lift from waterline to bowl, height & length - Re plumb with part of pipe lower than waterline for first part of run.

Q How to test if we have a vacuum on the Lavac
A Close the seat and cover and operate the pump. If you give the suggested 14
or so strokes of the pump you should find that you will not be able to lift the
seat and/or lid of the toilet, which proves you have a vacuum. If everything
is operating as it should the vacuum should last for between 75 and 120 seconds.

Q Foul water appears to come back into bowl
A Lower pump valve not seating correctly due to scale build up or old valve - Break up scale or replace valve.

Q Toilet smells when first pumped
A This is normally caused by micro-bacterial growth in the Inlet hose when the boat is left unused for some time - Flush a few times to wash out hose.

Q Electric Pumped version doesn't flush properly
A Minimum run time of pump inadequate should be (12v systems 50/55 seconds, 24v systems 45/50 seconds) - Increase run time by adjusting screw, rear of push button; Incorrect inlet valve fitted - Replace with appropriate valve.

Q Toilet bowl bubbling or blistering
A Very old model with coated alloy bowl - Strip and re-paint with 2 part epoxy, or contact us about replacement toilet bowl prices.

Q Hand or electric pump not working efficiently
A Pump not mounted vertically - Re-mount vertically; Bottom of pump too low - Re-mount pump with lower part above lid of toilet.

Q Too much water in bowl
A No bleed plug or bleed plug with too small a hole in inlet hose - Fit Bleed plug or enlarge hole until vacuum breaks more quickly.

Q Leaks from back of pump
A Water may be travelling down the thread of eye bolt - Smear with silicon grease and tighten nut.

Q Pump blocked
A Inlet valve held open by blockage - Open front cover of pump, check and clear; Scale build up in pump - physically remove by breaking away, bending pipe to crack away, dissolve by leaving in vinegar/water 50/50 solution for several days.

Q Pump hard to operate
A Seacock may be closed - Open; Pump/pipe blocked - Remove front cover and clean.

Q Scale build-up in pump/discharge pipe.
A Caused by chemical reaction with minerals in water - clear from pipe work by removing from system and "working" (bending to break up hard deposits) then banging pipe to empty. Physically remove from pump components by breaking away and emptying. Dissolve in a solution of water and vinegar (50/50) for several days then flush.

Top


Copyright © 2001 Blakes Lavac Taylors
Last modified: August 26, 2004

[peghall]

I suggest you begin taking Lavac advice from Clivevon, John. He knows it well...I don't see enough Lavacs to be able to offer you much more than a copy of the owners manual and Blake no longer includes it on their website. I've saved the trouble-shooting guide he posted that, according to the copyright on it, they apparently did offer 2001-0? and I've already learned more from it than I ever thought I knew...I suggest you save a copy of it for your files too.



--Peggie

--Peggie

[John320]

Hello folks, Peggie.

Yes I agree. Lots of info there.
Ok. This is what I have decided I'm going to go with in the first instance.

I'm going to move the high loop in the seawater inlet so as it is actually above the bowl (in the toilet). Not sitting out on the hull above the seacock as it is just now.
Into that line I'm going to fit a ball valve. When the toilet is flushed normally, I'll then just close that valve and "dry flush" with four strokes of the pump which lowers the water level perfectly.
Peg suggested this by the way and it's perfect.
My reasoning behind this.
By putting the valve in you are reducing the risk of back filling to ALARP. I'll keep you posted

[Scrimshaw4]

Doubtful that the problem is the choker valve since the water is clear. More likely the air vent on the anti-siphon valve on the inlet line is clogged. This can be cleaned by unscrewing the top of the valve and removing the spring and check ball. This condition can also be influenced when the flush / pump dry valve o rings get worn or fouled.

[johnn33]

Hallo John 320
Perhaps I could pop in to Blakes about 20 minutes drive from me if it might help?
https://blakesandtaylors.co.uk/
John

[John320]

Hello John,
Thanks for that kind offer.
I would appreciate that if it's not too much trouble.
I'll upload one or two more pics for you as they do in fact speak a thousand words.
Thanks
John