Isotherm heat exchanger seacock leaking

[maury]

Tightening orings which were above the closed valve when this discussion started curiously seems to have resolved most issues. When I opened valve I noticed leaks above valve and resolved all but a wet junction between valve and hose adapter. which is wet but now flowing.

I turned on the Isotherm refrigerator/icebox, cools beautifully. The pipe at valve gets extremely hot like a compressor. I expected warmth but not to this extreme. Is this just during initial startup phase or ongoing normal. Ice box temp guage is not working so I will start checking around.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by maury

Tightening orings which were above the closed valve when this discussion started curiously seems to have resolved most issues. When I opened valve I noticed leaks above valve and resolved all but a wet junction between valve and hose adapter. which is wet but now flowing.

I turned on the Isotherm refrigerator/icebox, cools beautifully. The pipe at valve gets extremely hot like a compressor. I expected warmth but not to this extreme. Is this just during initial startup phase or ongoing normal. Ice box temp guage is not working so I will start checking around.

You must open the valve so that water gets in to cool it.

[maury]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

You must open the valve so that water gets in to cool it.

I have it open but don’t understand why since heat exchanger is before the valve from the outside.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by maury

I have it open but don’t understand why since heat exchanger is before the valve from the outside.

What connects to the hose? If there is air then there cannot be water.

[Bill O]

We looked at the Isotherm drain heat exchanger and read that the boat needs to be moving/bobbing for them to work efficiently. The movement allows the water to be displaced out of the drain area otherwise trapping the warm water.
It seems it would be better to have the seacock open (than closed) to allow better movement in the drain.

[stavok]

Not sure I understand what is going on there but it looks like it violates a cardinal rule of not having anything fragile before the shutoff valve. Suggest to reinstall properly with the part after the shutoff valve. How will you stop the leak if that part breaks off? Also, remember that through hulls are a straight thread and valves are likely a tapered thread so an adapter is required for a solid leak free connection. Also, what does the seacock hose feed? Will the isotherm restrict the flow to the device?

[Icarus]

Originally Posted by maury

I just launched my new old boat and this seacock unit installed by seller is leaking. Before I start messing with it to much I would love some experiential insights from someone who has experience with them.



The joy of plumbing .. needs big tools in a small space.



The unit has coils inside exposed to the water for cooling refrigeration heat exchanger.

Hard to make out..is that a crack in the bronzer valve?
If you are unsure slip the boat to be on the safe side in case the through hull fitting gets lose.

[Icarus]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

If that valve is cracked, repair can’t wait.



Buy a Groco bronze valve.

Correct...

[stavok]

"The pipe at valve gets extremely hot like a compressor." I'm sorry, but I predict this arrangement will cause you no end of grief in the long run. Unless there is a continuous flow of water through the fitting or the valve is open and water is free to flow up and down the pipe AND the boat is bobbing up and down causing water reciprocation, the heat exchanger will not dump enough heat. Remember, your cooling efficiency is directly related to how cold your heat exchanger is- if it is hot, your cooling will be inefficient at best. More importantly, that through hull installation does not belong on a sea going boat. Judging from the water soaking the wood, it is not anything close to marine plywood or an inert waterproof material- it is going to get soft and rot. Together with thermal cycling it will be leaking in no time. Replace that setup before you regret it.....

[stavok]

Originally Posted by stavok

Not sure I understand what is going on there but it looks like it violates a cardinal rule of not having anything fragile before the shutoff valve. Suggest to reinstall properly with the part after the shutoff valve. How will you stop the leak if that part breaks off? Also, remember that through hulls are a straight thread and valves are likely a tapered thread so an adapter is required for a solid leak free connection. Also, what does the seacock hose feed? Will the isotherm restrict the flow to the device?

I read up on the unit and now understand the through hull is integral so my comments about threads are hopefully not relevant.

[smacksman]

The Isotherm through hull worked brilliantly for us. It even worked when out of the water on the hard with just air over the coils. Therefore the 'bobbing up and down in the water' requirement seems invalid. I would be very wary of trying to seal from the outside with a bung - the coils are exposed. Yes, the fitting gets hot but have you checked it is not blocked outside? Have the coils been covered in growth? Does the sink still drain ok? When I fitted it the refrigerent pipes had a check valve. I don't know if the check valves will still work if you disconnect them to gain better access. In short, I would be very loathe to get rid of it.

[maury]

Great news, after being in the water a week Isotherm unit is working beautifully. All leaks are stopped. I wish I had known it works on land, would have loved it while on the hard.