Isotherm heat exchanger seacock leaking

[maury]

I just launched my new old boat and this seacock unit installed by seller is leaking. Before I start messing with it to much I would love some experiential insights from someone who has experience with them.

The joy of plumbing .. needs big tools in a small space.

The unit has coils inside exposed to the water for cooling refrigeration heat exchanger.

[George_SD]

Well, where is it leaking at?

I think I'm seeing it leak from the clamp or hose, which would be an easy fix - tighten the clamp, replace the hose or cut a piece of a use a fresh cut.

I've done several seacock/valve repairs in the water, so it's not impossible to fix/work on them, but you need to identify the issue first.

[maury]

@George SD from what I can tell it is where valve meets isotherm unit. I slightly tightened it a bit yesterday after launch and realized how sophisticated and delicate the isotherm unit is so decided to wait and do it with more time and research.

I’m thinking of easing clamp on hose from above and with Wrench holding bottom unit from turning giving the valve a turn. Unfortunately as plumbing often goes it’s a big tool job in a mighty small space. Yesterday the cabinet door broke at joints which should be easily fixable.

On top of all this, I turned on the isotherm today and ended up with flashing yellow then yellow and red lights. Reding the short manual print out I have.

[SailingHarmonie]

It's always tough to be sure when looking at a photo... but that sure LOOKS like a crack in the valve body That can happen when a male tapered (NPT) fitting is installed into a parallel (NPS) female socket and then overtightened to try to get enough threads to engage.

Success with just tightening can vary depending on the type of threads and what was used as sealant. Tapered threads with TFE tape can be tightened long after install and still work. Many sealants that cure will not seal better with tightening after they harden. They can just tear and not get better.

If these are proper underwater fittings, they are actually parallel threads, and tightening will actually be very unlikely to stop a leak if they were not installed correctly in the first place. For parallel threads, TFE tape is actually not a very good choice...

[George_SD]

Originally Posted by maury

@George SD from what I can tell it is where valve meets isotherm unit. I slightly tightened it a bit yesterday after launch and realized how sophisticated and delicate the isotherm unit is so decided to wait and do it with more time and research.

I’m thinking of easing clamp on hose from above and with Wrench holding bottom unit from turning giving the valve a turn. Unfortunately as plumbing often goes it’s a big tool job in a mighty small space. Yesterday the cabinet door broke at joints which should be easily fixable.

On top of all this, I turned on the isotherm today and ended up with flashing yellow then yellow and red lights. Reding the short manual print out I have.

Ok, your plan is reasonable. However, whenever you work on the throughulls - you want to make sure that water ingress is blocked from the outside in case things go wrong. IF it is possible - install a bung from the outside. However, if you can't insert anything into the throughull due to the heat exchanger parts in it, then you need to create a block that covers it up. I've used toilet ring wax with some plastic in the past to create a seal while i removed valves and worked on throughulls.

Take the hose off - try to make it tighter. If this doesn't stop the leak, take the valve off and either replace it with a valve that will seal or use the thread sealer.

I suggest using RectorSeal #5 thread sealer. I've used it on throughulls as an added measure of protection from leaks. It fills the gaps and creates a seal. It's comes off easy if you need to remove the part.

[boatpoker]

Looks to me like a vertical crack in the valve body which I suspect is plated brass.

[maury]

So I took photos of the valve and learned: Italian, 1_1/4”, PN 25,, 400 PSI, CE1115, 0243. I started to research all this.

Regarding your recommendations @George SD, I will be heading to Key West in a couple of weeks and would rather do it there where the water is pleasant to plug the seacock from the outside while working on it exactly as you state, I appreciate the clear easy to follow guidance. Only question I need to prepare for just in case is my limited ability to turn the valve because of two gas filled tubes in the back blocking the handle after in ¾ of an inch. Would a scotch product like thermo seal which is a rubber or rubber like tape tightly wrapped stop the leak for now?

As for the integrity of the valve casing there was a rust colored stain which now that I opened the valve for an hour see a drop of water from pipe to fitting leaking every three seconds where the stain was. Stain was a good observation.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by maury

So I took photos of the valve and learned: Italian, 1_1/4”, PN 25,, 400 PSI, CE1115, 0243. I started to research all this.

As for the integrity of the valve casing there was a rust colored stain which now that I opened the valve for an hour see a drop of water from pipe to fitting leaking every three seconds where the stain was. Stain was a good observation.

Those markings suggest mfg by Cimberio, an Italian company that makes brass ball valves. Brass ball valves have no place in below the waterline applications due to dezincification.

[maury]

@boatpoker Hmm, thanks for the tip.Don’t know if this will help but I added a second zinc to the boat when it was on the hard but yes, if it’s brass I understand what you are saying. Should I file a bit of finish off to see what’s underneath? In Key West I could replace it once I figure out how to deal with sealed bulbs and pipes in the way.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by maury

Should I file a bit of finish off to see what’s underneath? .

Worth a looksee

[s/v Jedi]

If that valve is cracked, repair can’t wait.

Buy a Groco bronze valve.

[George_SD]

I've never used Thermo Seaal, a stretchy tape that is not adhesive based, but instead friction based should work. For a temporary fix to get your mind off of it until you are able to repair it properly - get some siliconized self-bonding tape. When wrapping - make sure to stretch it so it lays tightly. It relies on the stretch to create an inward force and thus bind to self. It will seal the area until you get to Key West. I carry a pack of it in my spare and repair set.

Remember - good stretch with multiple layer overlap is what creates the seal.

[maury]

Looking closely at pipe wrench marks it appears to be zinc coated bronze. Not brass.

[George_SD]

Just noticed the proximity of the tubes to the valve body - wrapping with tape may not be possible. You can always try to use toilet ring wax and just jam it all around. It should hold whatever little pressure there is just fine and once at port - just fix it right.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by maury

Looking closely at pipe wrench marks it appears to be zinc coated bronze. Not brass.

Cimbrio has no bronze ball valves that I can find on their website.
I've never heard of, nor can I think of a reason to coat bronze with zinc.
The galvanic reaction would make short work of the zinc.