Leaky Joker Valve

[off-the-grid]

I've been reabuilding this thing for months and it still leaks!

I have a Raritan PHII head. When I pump it (wet or dry) water leaks out around the fixture where the joker valve is.

Here's what I've done so far.
New joker valve (greased and silicone around the edges where it contacts the housing...as pre Raritans recommendation).
New line going to my holding tank. (Goes directly to the tank, no valve)
Confirmed that there is no blockage in the vent.
Added an elbow to the line going out of the pump to ensure no tension. When I put the joke valve in, the 2 halves of the fixture line up perfectly before even installing the bolts.
Made sure the bolts werent overtightened. Then tried once again reaally tightnening them...since it was still leaking.

Now what?
Raritan recommends a new pump. Said possibly a crack in the body of the pump somewhere. I kind of agree with them...since that's about the only part I haven't replaced at this point.

[sandy daugherty]

Check the clamping surfaces facing both sides of the joker valve for smoothness. I've gone so far as to sand them smooth. Then check the contact faces on the valve. If there is still a leak (and you haven't cross threaded anything,) then the mating surfaces are cracked or warped.

[Sailmonkey]

I'd vote for the collar is warped. We've got a brand new phII and the collar the holds the outlet against the pump is already bowed.

[off-the-grid]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

I'd vote for the collar is warped. We've got a brand new phII and the collar the holds the outlet against the pump is already bowed.

Oops, forgot to mention. Brand new collar from Raritan too.

[off-the-grid]

Originally Posted by sandy daugherty

Check the clamping surfaces facing both sides of the joker valve for smoothness. I've gone so far as to sand them smooth. Then check the contact faces on the valve. If there is still a leak (and you haven't cross threaded anything,) then the mating surfaces are cracked or warped.

Sanded both sides. Even sanded the valve a little to smoothe out the very minimal flashing that was on the edge. Looked underneath with a mirror. No visible cracks.

So is this warped enough to not make a seal?
That is a brang new flange.

[Sailmonkey]

That looks just like a new one.
is there flashing where the hose connects? I put a little silicone on there just to be sure to contain all the poo.

[FrankZ]

You may have over tightened it. You might try backing it off then tightening it up slowly.

Also calling Raritan is not a bad idea, they have pretty good support, at least I have found it so.

[off-the-grid]

So, after talking to Raritan...AGAIN, they made one more suggestion. And when looking at it for the 1000th time, I finally noticed the 2 hair line cracks on opposite sides of the elbow...obviously from overtightening it in the first place. Oopsie! Those are 2 nuts that are kind of hard to not want to overtighten, though.

[Sailmonkey]

I had to put down my wrenches and only allow myself the blue locktite and fingers of steel to get it right.

[KenBartline]

Thanks for posting this about your problems with the joker valve on the PHII. I discovered the same leaking joker valve problem when I changed out my PHII entire pump unit. I tried to tighten it more and the leaking got worse. I read your post carefully then called Raritan.
1. Less tight is better. Don't overtighten! The joker valve makes a good seal if the nuts are just 1/4 turn past finger tight.
2. You may align the flapper so that the slot is vertical. According to Raritan tech: Apparently there was someone that did research showing that the back pressure was decreased with a vertical alignment of the slot.
What I found when I did these two things: The seam between the elbow and the pump flange makes a slight bow as it bends around the joker valve. It looks a bit like a sandwich with two pieces of bread and a bit of baloney showing. (see photo) I left it so the joint ends did not quite touch. It did not leak at all following these directions. Even though there is a gap and the surfaces are not touching, but bulged, it works. I hope this helps. Ken

[off-the-grid]

Problem solved!

I switched to a Nature's Head a few months ago.

[peghall]

Over tightening screws/bolts will cause a gasket to pucker...and leak. Using a straight discharge fitting and then pulling the hose to one side to aim it in the direction you want it to go instead of swapping the straight fitting for a 90 will cause a the discharge fitting to leak. I'd bet real money that one or the other--or both--is the caused of every leaking joker valve tale of woe posted here.