Persistent odor even after removing sanitation system

[Terra Nova]

Take apart, for cleaning, whatever must be removed to access the source of the odor. Refinish, if necessary. Then clean or replace all cushions and fabrics after scrubbing every interior surface.

[boatbrain]

This is not the question that was asked but it might help the problem quite a bit to point out, many boats, most production boats I would say, have no reasonable provision for ventilation, and just getting good ventilation going in the cabin, particularly the V berth, might really help.

Although I think it would take a long time, if ever, for wood to lose a smell, the amount of smell coming out of the wood may be very slight - you only notice because there is no fresh air coming in.

Typically, boat builders and designers have some miserable inadequate "cowl vent" which allows only some very small amount of air to flow- then you can try to fix that by buying a $100 solar vent to fit over it - also not very satisfactory.

If you've ever had a boat with proper dorade vents with boxes, you've seen the difference - it's huge - keep those clear, always put all your cushions and hatches up and no more mold and not much odor. But installing dorade boxes is not a trivial task, unfortunately.

[hellosailor]

If the stank from the old plumbing had, say, five years to penetrate into bare wood on the edges or bottoms of inaccessible places, your pressure washing won't get it out of the wood fibers again. You're on the right track but cleaning deep inside of wood is not so easy. You may want to rip out and replace some pieces if that is feasible. Otherwise, you can try an ozone generator (gas will penetrate deeper and faster than liquid) and some heat (to help dry out the wood) and when you've exhausted your patience, use a penetrant epoxy like Git Rot to try getting deeply into the raw wood to seal it, followed by an epoxy paint to put a good sealed surface on it.


Problem being, if there are ANY raw or exposed surfaces, on sides or bottoms or back corners, the stank will be internal to them and you've got to really chase it out. If you just try to seal over it, it may find ways to come out anyway. Lots of fresh dry air ventilation will also help--eventually.


But the only quick and guaranteed way to do it is with a Sawzall, ripping out the tainted stuff and replacing it.


"Odor absorber" stuff, Febreze, baking soda (or, oddly enough, coffee grounds) will all help neutralize and absorb the smell, but they don't get rid of it. That won't really happen until you can drive it out, or seal it in.

[northiceman]

Best enzyme I have seen is...

Bio-Clean

Enjoy !

[peghall]

Originally Posted by Chuck Hawley

I think your best bet is a biologically-based product that actually digests or decomposes the organic molecules. I would avoid treatments that have a masking odor. Peggy Hall built her business on offering chemicals from large sanitation systems that break down waste instead of killing the bugs: I think that's still the best option. I presume KO is still on the market, and there are no doubt similar products available. Chuck Hawley

Thanks for the plug, Chuck. K.O. is indeed still on the market, but as Raritan K.O since 1999...but it's not what he needs.

PureAyre PureAyre is the best product I've ever found for totally eliminating ANY residual odor, even smoke or diesel. I tripped over it at boat show in Seattle in 2005, brought some home to test, and it knocked my socks off...still does.

You cannot eliminate any odor unless you first completely eliminate the SOURCE of the odor...'cuz the source will just keep creating more odor (which is the reason why portable ozone generators are just overpriced air fresheners...legally they can't generate enough ozone to kill anything.)

Clean--don't use bleach!--the area(s) completely...let the dry--not necessarily "bone" dry, just not wet...using a garden pump sprayer (unless you just like wearing out your hand on a trigger sprayer), put down a fine mist of PureAyre on every surface, nook and cranny. DO NOT RINSE! Just let it dry, leaving all hatches and lockers open, for at least 24 hours...better yet, put a fan/fans on to make sure that plenty of fresh air can circulate. If you still have any odor, you missed a spot.

It's available in assorted sizes and "formulations' direct from the company, pet supply retailers and Amazon. Ive found that the "household" version works as well as "marine" or "pet'" and costs less.

Disclaimer: I have no connection whatever with this product or the company that makes it, nor ANY incentive to recommend it. I do use it.

[Beavereater]

Unfortunately my boat was used as a play house for the grand kids during the off season. Leaving the boat for bathroom visits must not have been the usual routine. I found a enzyme pet product called Natures Miracle to be very effective at eliminating the odors. I used about 1 gallon in a hand held spray bottle applied to all suspected surfaces three times over a two week period. Let's just say it was a miracle.

[Sea Dreaming]

Originally Posted by wrwakefield

Have you read Peggy Hall's book Get rid of boat odors?

Another approach I have used with success in the past is to use enzymes. [Remember they are live, so all traces of bleach and vinegar, etc. need to be removed first...]

You could start by wetting everything in the area [tank, hoses, hull, bulkheads, etc.] with spray enzyme like you can get in a pet store for controlling animal urine odors. Let it dry. If odors persist after a day or two, repeat. [We buy gallon size. Its handy to have around...]

It is relatively cheap and worth a try. If it doesn't work, either the odors are disseminating from a location you haven't hit with enzymes, or as others have mentioned, permeated deep into something porous (wood, etc.)

Also remember there may have been a spill in the past, so get enough enzyme to pour on the tank itself and let it run its course through to the bilge [like a spill/overflow would have...] hopefully treating any pockets of leftovers along the way.

I hopes your boat smells better soon...

Bill

Ah hah! I was going to post this same thing but I don't have experience (yet) so I thought it might sound stupid. But I have tons of mom based poop experience and I know enzymes work! Buy it from the pet store under pet odor removal. Walmart used to sell the best brand "Kids and Pets" but I am not sure they still have it.
The advice to rinse off soap and bleach is spot on.
Yes enzymes for poop! (sounds like a campaign slogan no?)

[Blue Crab]

My 2 cents sez that sealing the area with epoxy is the last thing I would do, after all the other stuff.

[Spindrift NH]

All of the above advice is good, one other thing to consider is your cushions.

[GordMay]

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, TML.

[phydeaux]

Yes, It's almost always the wood. Seal it or replace it. Going forward (no pun), in the short term Tea Tree Power eliminates most of the problem, but does have a light residual smell. Over the long haul, use EcoTankPro - eliminates head odor, even in the porta potty with no masking perfumes. I was a test subject for both, on both my boats. Both are from Forespar.

[Paul L]

We had good success using a product called Sniper. They use it in hospitals and ugly house scenes. Sniper - Biocide, Cleaner, Disinfectent, Deodorizer

[sartorst]

In order for ozone to do any good you would need a commercial quality unit! most every thing in the boat would need to be removed or they could be damaged READ 1st

[Training Wheels]

Have you taken a shower?


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[sailorboy1]

When I had head hose go bad I had to spray the down the area pretty heavy with PureAyre after I replaced the hoses. It's been a couple of years and the odor hasn't come back.