Polyiso VS Blueboad (XPS) Test

[jhulmer]

I can use the spray foam much easier than building up layers inside the box in pieces. Then shape and glass over, fair and coat with gelcoat. It won't be perfect smooth but it will be durable and that's what I want.

Cabo Rico made an inside hull liner with pre-made accommodations. The liner for the ice box had an outer box and an inner box insert. They fit the inner box and poured foam in between then covered with the counter top.

Pictures:
The previous system had a holding plate the was a little long so they just cut into the bottom of the box for the lip of the holding plate .

[Typhoon]

Ok I got it .

So you want to fill the void between the hull and the liner. So you are going to cut out just that side , then cut the hull liner out and fill that space. How much insulation do you think is in there.

Also when you say spray foam , you are talking about the two part stuff right ?

Regards John.

[john61ct]

I really like this direction for custom boxen.

Which readily available two-part foams are recommended for reasonably sized quantities in

A pourable

B spray kits


For maximum R-value (rarely spec'd) is "denser the better" always true or where is the point of declining return?

[jhulmer]

Originally Posted by ColdEh Marine

Ok I got it .

So you want to fill the void between the hull and the liner. So you are going to cut out just that side , then cut the hull liner out and fill that space. How much insulation do you think is in there.

Also when you say spray foam , you are talking about the two part stuff right ?

Regards John.

Yes, goal being to provide as much insulation as possible between the hull and inside liner of the box.

Right now there is about and 1 or 1-1/2" of air space between the hull and the outside liner of the box.

And absolutely the two part spray (mix nozzle) urethane foam. Like Dow Froth-Pack.

I will email you the drawing with dimensions of the inside of the box.
Thanks
Jim

[Typhoon]

Originally Posted by john61ct

I really like this direction for custom boxen.

Which readily available two-part foams are recommended for reasonably sized quantities in

A pourable

B spray kits


For maximum R-value (rarely spec'd) is "denser the better" always true or where is the point of declining return?

Have read of this , 2lb is where you want to stay , pour in , or spray .

2 lb spray foam insulation

Regards John.

[Typhoon]

Originally Posted by jhulmer

Yes, goal being to provide as much insulation as possible between the hull and inside liner of the box.

Right now there is about and 1 or 1-1/2" of air space between the hull and the outside liner of the box.

And absolutely the two part spray (mix nozzle) urethane foam. Like Dow Froth-Pack.

I will email you the drawing with dimensions of the inside of the box.
Thanks
Jim

Remember as you double your R value you half your power requirements . So it does become diminishing results as you go thicker . If you have 4 inches , you would have to go to 8 inches to half your power usage.

You will be removing very old insulation that was probably doing nothing at all . Then increasing it ! this will be good. Now if you did the whole box that way you would be golden . Nice stainless counter , I can understand why you wouldn't want to disturb it . I do have another idea if you are feeling brave .

Send me those measurements and let me do a little math . Try to give me an approximate idea of the insulation space you have behind the liner as well.

Regards John.

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by ColdEh Marine

Have read of this, 2lb is where you want to stay, pour in, or spray.

So these guys for pourable, $40-50/gal ?

http://www.aeromarineproducts.com/pr...sulation-foam/

And for spray, besides that Dow kit?

[Typhoon]

Originally Posted by john61ct

So these guys for pourable, $40-50/gal ?

Polyurethane Pour Foam For Insulation & Flotation

And for spray, besides that Dow kit?

Yes thats the stuff. can't remember what I paid for it last time , but somewhere around that.

For spray-able , I have used Tiger Foam .

https://tigerfoam.com/sprayfoaminsul...SAAEgI2NfD_BwE

Regards John.

[jhulmer]

Originally Posted by ColdEh Marine

Remember as you double your R value you half your power requirements . So it does become diminishing results as you go thicker . If you have 4 inches , you would have to go to 8 inches to half your power usage.

You will be removing very old insulation that was probably doing nothing at all . Then increasing it ! this will be good. Now if you did the whole box that way you would be golden . Nice stainless counter , I can understand why you wouldn't want to disturb it . I do have another idea if you are feeling brave .

Send me those measurements and let me do a little math . Try to give me an approximate idea of the insulation space you have behind the liner as well.

Regards John.

I plan to cut out all of the inside box liner and cleanout all the old foam and maximize the room available for insulation then barrier liner and spray in foam.

I will then shape the expanded foam to the dimensions of the current box inside diameter, seal with resin and glass over with 1 layer of 1708 biaxle and 1 layer of 6oz cloth. Then sand and fair and paint with white gelcoat (2 or 3 coats) sand & polish.

I wish I had the room for a little bigger box and more insulation, but it is what it is.

The stainless top is a thermal bridge to some degree, but I will fill under the lip with insulation and the lid seals very well (3" thick).

[Typhoon]

Originally Posted by jhulmer

I plan to cut out all of the inside box liner and cleanout all the old foam and maximize the room available for insulation then barrier liner and spray in foam.

I will then shape the expanded foam to the dimensions of the current box inside diameter, seal with resin and glass over with 1 layer of 1708 biaxle and 1 layer of 6oz cloth. Then sand and fair and paint with white gelcoat (2 or 3 coats) sand & polish.

I wish I had the room for a little bigger box and more insulation, but it is what it is.

The stainless top is a thermal bridge to some degree, but I will fill under the lip with insulation and the lid seals very well (3" thick).

Thats the way to do it . Perfect .

My idea was to save the liner . Cut it out in 4 equal pieces , insulate , then put it back in and you only have to glass up the cuts . The corners are a bugger to do inside the box . I build the liners outside the box , half them or quarter them , and install, then I only have minimal sanding to do inside the box.

[jhulmer]

Originally Posted by ColdEh Marine

Thats the way to do it . Perfect .

My idea was to save the liner . Cut it out in 4 equal pieces , insulate , then put it back in and you only have to glass up the cuts . The corners are a bugger to do inside the box . I build the liners outside the box , half them or quarter them , and install, then I only have minimal sanding to do inside the box.

I had not thought of this but I will take a close look and see if I can do it this way. it would save a lot of work.
thanks
Jim

[SailRedemption]

How's your testing going John? Any new updates?

[Typhoon]

I have finished the second test with better temperature measuring equipment and using a large 8 inch block of insulation which mimics four inches in a box . I have been so busy servicing and building systems that have not had the chance to crunch the data. Should be coming soon .

Regards John

[SV THIRD DAY]

Originally Posted by ColdEh Marine

. I have been so busy servicing and building systems that have not had the chance to crunch the data. Should be coming soon .

Regards John

Start a biz....
Work for yourself.....
Be your own boss...…
Have a nice little "retirement business"....
What a 7 day a week work list in the glossy brochure of running a marine business where Sat is the same as Tuesday to a Cruiser?

[john61ct]

Well when your business model includes publishing your cell so customers can call 24*7, you kinda forfeit your right to B&M 8-)