PVC on bilge pump

[JD-MDR]

My original bilge pump plastic thru hull was in the way and digging into my back when I work in the Laz. Also I was worried that that hose would eventually crack. It did. (Photo 3), I modified it as in 1st photo only to receive harsh criticism: No backing plate, PVC pipe will break, not secured down good enough, no 2nd hose clamp. I would like to move it to the other side close to the manual outlet but that requires too much and gel coat and paint matching, Any suggestions how I can improve the way I did it (photo 3)

[Pete7]

Is that a plastic through hull fitting? if so not fit for purpose, sorry. Suggest you take it out and start again. You will ideally need a bronze or Trudesign through hull and seacock to which the pipe fits. Preferably a smooth bore pipe rather than the existing one. Since the valve may be subject to heavy loads coming into contact with it, a backing plate and the Trudesign collar are also going to be needed.

https://www.trudesign.nz/marine/products

Those exposed wires could do with some protection too.

Pete

[JD-MDR]

Thanks for the response.. The new thru hull that I put in is bronze ,1st photo. The originals are like the other photos plastic and no backing plate. I didn't use the barbed thru hull because I wanted to keep the 90 degree elbow as close to the hull as possible.still I had to put a wood block under it so It doesn't get crushed. I wonder about the PVC pipe. Do I need bronze pipe and is the stuff form the hardware store good . I don't know if those are bronze or brass. I hear brass is not good for marine use.

[alctel]

Is it below the waterline? If it's not, and pretty high above it then plastic is probably fine

[JD-MDR]

here is the thru hull I bought and an article I found that explains most of my questions except for the PVC

[wyb2]

I’ll second: does this exit above or below the waterline? Being a bilge pump I would hope and assume above.

If so, I actually don’t think you original fix is that bad. That grey PVC is usually schedule 80 and quite a bit more resilient than the typical white sewer pipe. If you epoxy that wood block to the hull and secure the PVC to it better, it’s going to be as good as any backing plate. As long as the wood doesn’t rot out that is.

[wholybee]

If this is below the waterline, you also need a seacock. That is a bigger issue than the plastic pipe.

If it is above the waterline at all angles of heel, then plastic is fine.

[s/v Jedi]

Above or below waterline? Why don’t you answer the question, it matters.

[JD-MDR]

When heeled over it goes under. I do not want a seacock there. Why didn’t the manufacturer put one in. The reason I started on this is because I wanted all that stuff out of the way so I can access my auto pilot motor and windvane parts. If I have to put a seacock. I will move everything over to the port side like the guy did in that middle photo (1st post). When I bought this salvage boat at San Francisco. It didn’t evan have a vented loop. I found out how important that was when I saw the floor boards floating soon after we passes the Golden Gate. Following Sea all the way to Monterey. We kept the motor running and the pump going. Sometimes the siphoning would stop

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by JD-MDR

When heeled over it goes under. I do not want a seacock there. Why didn’t the manufacturer put one in. The reason I started on this is because I wanted all that stuff out of the way so I can access my auto pilot motor and windvane parts. If I have to put a seacock. I will move everything over to the port side like the guy did in that middle photo (1st post). When I bought this salvage boat at San Francisco. It didn’t evan have a vented loop. I found out how important that was when I saw the floor boards floating soon after we passes the Golden Gate. Following Sea all the way to Monterey. We kept the motor running and the pump going. Sometimes the siphoning would stop

If you don't install a seacock in Accordance with ABYC H-27
(27.4.2 Maximum Heeled Waterline - The level of the water on the hull when
the hull is inclined to
27.4.2.1 for powerboats, an angle of seven degrees, or
27.4.2.2 for sailboats, the level of sheer amidships.)

You run the risk of being denied insurance when the surveyor puts it in his report.

[JD-MDR]

I’ll have to figure out how to measure that. I can’t believe Cape Dory would not have it correct

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by JD-MDR

I’ll have to figure out how to measure that. I can’t believe Cape Dory would not have it correct

I've surveyed thousands of boats and have only seen four that were built to ABYC and legally required standards ... three were home built.
Stoopid Tricks By Boatbuilders.

[JD-MDR]

Here is how I re- did it again. I hope it’s good now. G-10 backing plate barbed bronze hose adapter hardwood block epoxied down, better clamps. No PVC pipe fittings. I’m not getting a seacock. I trust the enginerrs

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by JD-MDR

Here is how I re- did it again. I hope it’s good now. G-10 backing plate barbed bronze hose adapter hardwood block epoxied down, better clamps. No PVC pipe fittings. I’m not getting a seacock. I trust the enginerrs

So you don't trust ABYC ?

[JD-MDR]

About as much as I trust CDC
Sorry. I dont know anything about them. Those standards might be necessary for those extremist doing those dangerous races in all weather