Raritan Electroscan - any users?

[senormechanico]

Regarding the salt and solidifying in the container, we quickly found that coarse salt is not a problem. It's not the size you put on an icy sidewalk, but between that and table salt.

[Pitchondesign]

I have two on my boat. The newer version is more sophisticated in terms of telling me when it needs servicing. After many uses, it will develop scale buildup that can be removed with a muriatic acid solution. If the scale is removed when the low current fault comes on, it works fine. You also need good batteries, as the current draw can pull down the voltage considerably. We cruise full time 6 months a year. We think they are great.

[Dockhead]

I think you got it all right. Do you have NDZ's up there?

We used one of the first ones made, for years on the previous boat.

It is an absolute Godsend -- freedom at last from the dreaded potty police. It's just not feasible in my opinion to carry all the black waste everywhere on a reasonably sized boat, and wait for pumpout. I bet there are few people who actually do it without cheating, at least if they have more than two people on board.

Ours was somewhat troublesome and needed repair on a few occasions. But that was the original Mark 1 -- the new ones are different and might be better. But I never resented the problems -- it was worth it ten times over!

As to NDZ's -- yes, you'll need to be able to divert into a holding tank. But I think you want that capability in any case -- there are some places -- near beaches for example -- where you just wouldn't want to discharge anything, treated or not, even if it's legal to do so.

[Squanderbucks]

My boat has had one of the original units for over 25 years. I have replaced the electrodes s couple of times and did a rebuild of the tank with replacement of the motors and seals about 8 years ago. We have been very pleased with its performance. But it is fed by a Rarital Crown Head 2 macerating toilet. I’m not sure how well it will perform with manual toilets - especially if passengers are not real careful with the toilet paper. Those little paddles in the tank are more like stirrers than grinders and if not used regularly the sediment can get pretty stiff.
I think if you met One manual toilet you should request it for peeing only as much as possible and full service on the electric one.
Three are no parts available on the older Lectrosan units so don’t try and pick one up cheap. The control timers are analog on the older ones and unless you find one on eBay they are dead in the water. Luckily mine has continued to work fine but did need a little TLC to get the timer back working.
Overall I have been very happy with the unit.

[peghall]

I’m not sure how well it will perform with manual toilets - especially if passengers are not real careful with the toilet paper.
Those little paddles in the tank are more like stirrers than grinders and if not used regularly the sediment can get pretty stiff.
I think if you met One manual toilet you should request it for peeing only as much as possible and full service on the electric one.

Every generation of the Lectra/San, the ElectroScan and the PuraSan has been designed for use with ANY toilet, manual and electric. The USCG wouldn't certify any generation of any of 'em if they failed to macerate to the federally mandated "no visible solids" standard, regardless of the type of toilet. They're even certified for use with VacuFlush...which needs some additional modified installation instructions that are available from Raritan.

I can't find anything resembling "little paddles" in the exploded drawings for any of 'em...however there are mixer impellers in all of 'em that stir up any sediment every time it runs. So that's no an issue either unless the system wasn't prepared according to instructions for extended layup.

It is advisable, however, to use only "quick dissolve" TP in all of 'em, as sparingly as possible.

Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein

[jewt]

Go for a composting head, get rid of the plumbing, thru-hulls, odor and worry about the head Nazis and gain all that storage space the holding tank took up. The electrosan is not legal in "no discharge" areas in the US .

jewt

S/V Bifrost

[pitlaw]

Mine works well too and Raritan is top notch in providing accessable and informative techs to answer service questions. You will need their salt tank if your area s brackish or the salt content is below the required level. Its an automatic system that responds via their computerized system to supply the needed salt water to the treatment tank.

Also put a Y valve after the treatment tank outflow so you can divert to a holding tank in a NDC zone. Its helpful if the holding tank is nearby.

[ronbo1]

I’ve had a LectraSan followed by an ElectroScan for 16 years.
I flush with fresh water from the never fouled holding tank which I believe extends the life of the electrode plates.

As has been reported many times the discharge of an ElectoScan is “cleaner” than the effluent of a municipal sewage plant. It’s too bad little money goes into research to make MSDs even better.

[Connemara]

Peggie: Quick question: Raritan says leave the acid in the tank for a maximum of 45 minutes. The acid I bought (from the Raritan dealer here in Auckland) has a label that says 2-3 hours or even overnight. Colour me confused.

Thanks for the clarification about macerating toilets, BTW.

Regards
Connemara.

[peghall]

Originally Posted by Connemara

Peggie: Quick question: Raritan says leave the acid in the tank for a maximum of 45 minutes. The acid I bought (from the Raritan dealer here in Auckland) has a label that says 2-3 hours or even overnight. Colour me confused.

I have a feeling those directions were written when muriatic acid was the recommended electrode pack cleaner...and what you've bought is either Sew Clean or Raritan's private label version of it that they call C.H. Cleans Hoses. If so, follow the directions on the bottle.

Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein

[Connemara]

Peggie: Jug says hydrochloric acid 3%. No brand name at all. In any case I followed Raritan's directions.

Connemara

[Fore and Aft]

Our Jabsco electric toilet with a plastic holding tank works well. We have the holding tank up high so you can either pump it out or open a seacock and drain it.
Cheers

[peghall]

Originally Posted by Connemara

Peggie: Jug says hydrochloric acid 3%

Muriatic acid is another name for hydrochloric acid. 3% is a pretty weak dilution, but Raritan's directions call for a 10-12% dilution of the usual strength, which may or may not come out about the same. If one 45 minute application isn't long enough to turn off the "low salt" light, go with a second application. Follow all handling and use directions carefully!

Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein

[Rebar_Caruso]

Originally Posted by senormechanico

#2 The electrodes DO require an annual maintenance, but no disassembly is required.
It's all in the manual. Dump in some muriatic acid in a water solution, flush, let sit for ten minutes or so, then flush thoroughly. It's not hard, just something that ought to be done during installation.

.

I've had my unit for about 3 years now living aboard in Brisbane & the plate amps are giving me headaches. at $375 a pop, I've gone through 2 of them, and yes, I do the HCL maintenance every 6 months or less. The output drops with time, and I flush the unit as needed. I've got the right level of salinity, but hey, it's getting old. I've got some spare plates here as well. My question (to keep me from continuing to buy plates) is how do you recondition the used plates? I've got some fine steel wool to use to get the corrosion off, but will that damage them? It's getting frustrating. & I couldn't find another thread addressing this situation.

[Pitchondesign]

Originally Posted by Rebar_Caruso

I've had my unit for about 3 years now living aboard in Brisbane & the plate amps are giving me headaches. at $375 a pop, I've gone through 2 of them, and yes, I do the HCL maintenance every 6 months or less. The output drops with time, and I flush the unit as needed. I've got the right level of salinity, but hey, it's getting old. I've got some spare plates here as well. My question (to keep me from continuing to buy plates) is how do you recondition the used plates? I've got some fine steel wool to use to get the corrosion off, but will that damage them? It's getting frustrating. & I couldn't find another thread addressing this situation.

I HCL the plates when the amps go low. About a cup of acid to the bowl, then flush sufficiently to get it to the plates. I let it sit for about an hour, then thoroughly flush the acid out. It works better if there is less poop in the system. Repeat if needed. I haven't replaced the plates in a 4 year old unit. I use it mostly in the Bahamas. I typically do this once a month. I used to replace plates on another unit, but it's a pain and expensive.