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speciald@ocens. · 27-01-2010, 15:24

It should be installed facing down stream. Cold water temp may affect function as will calcium deposites on the flaps. Flushing with amonia or Muriatic acid (not both) will remove the calcium deposits.

Therapy · 27-01-2010, 15:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by speciald@ocens.

It should be installed facing down stream. Cold water temp may affect function as will calcium deposites on the flaps. Flushing with amonia or Muriatic acid (not both) will remove the calcium deposits.

These were not used much and had no deposits on them. The housing will only allow mounting "down stream". Through the summer in FL there is no "cold" water but it sure feels cold down here now - Brrrr.

As posted above, they became "deformed" and simply stayed "open" a little bit.

ggray · 27-01-2010, 16:54

I'd try backing off on the vinegar, and maybe the oil as well. The rubber might not like basting in vinegar. I know I've seen rubber head parts swell from prolonged contact with vinegar.

If this helps, try the vinegar treatment overnight the first night on board only. For longer term, make sure only fresh water contacts the joker. The vegetable oil shouldn't be a problem, but you might try that later.

svHyLyte · 27-01-2010, 17:15

Therapy--

It is the "back pressure" in the discharge hose that forces the "lips" of a joker valve closed. They only fail when there is debris blocking them open; or, if they are worn. We have the same heads and only have to replace the joker valves about every 3-4 years as they become worn out (females aboard!). Something I have found of value is a material by the name of "Salt Away". We keep a squeeze bottle with a solution of this and fresh water in each head. Once the bowl has been cleared of waste material, a good shot of the "Salt Away" solution is squeezed into the bowl, the flush lever fliped to empty, and the bowl pumped clear. Our heads and hoses have remained clear and trouble free ever since I discovered the stuff (2002).

It's available at West Marine. While costly, one only needs a very dilute mixture. I use it in the heads, to keep the cooling lines clear in our dinghy engine and, after a long passage, as a means of disolving away the salts on deck, sails and hardware without completely depleating our freshwater stock.

FWIW...

Therapy · 27-01-2010, 19:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by ggray

I'd try backing off on the vinegar, and maybe the oil as well. The rubber might not like basting in vinegar. I know I've seen rubber head parts swell from prolonged contact with vinegar.

If this helps, try the vinegar treatment overnight the first night on board only. For longer term, make sure only fresh water contacts the joker. The vegetable oil shouldn't be a problem, but you might try that later.

I wonder about that too.
This latest valve has had vineager once and fresh water the rest of the time.

The reason for vineager was all the stuff I have read.

If I had the throw-away cash I could buy three and soak them while watching.

Anyone done that test???

Therapy · 27-01-2010, 19:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by svHyLyte

Therapy--

They only fail when there is debris blocking them open; or, if they are worn.

It's available at West Marine. While costly, one only needs a very dilute mixture. I use it in the heads, to keep the cooling lines clear in our dinghy engine and, after a long passage, as a means of disolving away the salts on deck, sails and hardware without completely depleating our freshwater stock.

FWIW...

I have had two fail this year with very little use. They seem to just look a little "open". Sorry no pics. Saltaway I have been using for years also for outboards, fishing tackle, stuff that "got wet" and also now my new-to-me diesel as I flush it with salt away and fresh every use.