Recharging Older Adler Barbour Cold Machine

[Mexico Mike]

After 5 years of good performance`(since`I've owned the boat-unit is older than that) the little "freezer compartment" only freezes on the side the refrigerant enters. Seemed like it might need a top-up with R-12, and here in Fiji they still have some and will use it. Only problem is, the Fijian refrigeration tech who came to my boat couldn't see anywhere to hook up to the unit, and I couldn't either. Can anybody help on this? Could it be possible is nowhere to put in more refrigerant? He wants to remove the unit and take it to his shop to retrofit some fittings and I'd like to avoid that...

Thanks,

Mike

[Richard Kollmann]

Prior to changes to the clean air act of 1995 Adler Barbour did not provide a refrigerant servicing port on their units, they did sell a dual line connector with a gauge to add refrigerant with. If unit has held refrigerant all this time the leak is probably a micro corrosion hole in evaporator and is not repairable. I would check with local boaters to see if someone has an AB servicing quick connect servicing gauge.

[GordMay]

FWIW: Here’s the Adler Barbour (Waeco) ColdMachine & SuperColdMachine Installation & Operating Manual:
http://www.raycotechnologies.org/adlerbarbour.pdf

[Mexico Mike]

Thanks for the responses. If I was anywhere but here I'd probably bite the bullet and get a new unit, but it looks like we'll try to get this one working here.

Mike

[brian ritts]

I have an AB unit that is over 20 yrs old. On a recent trip to Desolation Sound it stopped cooling. The compressor continued to work so I hot wired the unit around the temperature setting sensor with no change. Is it possible or worth while to try and recharge the system or should I start shopping for a new unit?

[Mexico Mike]

Originally Posted by brian ritts

should I start shopping for a new unit?

Probably the cost-effective alternative unless you are a refrigeration tech! Or just use ice...
We ended up buying a new system, with a huge holding plate, that happened to show up as somebodies un-needed spare in Fiji. It's more energy efficient than the old AB unit as well.

Best,

Mike

[brian ritts]

Thanks Mike, sounds like you've found your solution, which in a far flung place like Fiji is quite a feat. It makes my problem seem easily solved. We did use ice on the cruise to Canada but again I would guess ice in Canada a lot more available than around the South Pacific. Hope I get a chance to find out first hand some day. About your quote, "Are we there yet" I think the answer is Yes you are. Brian

[robertmfranklin]

My Adler Barbour Cold Machine is around 25 years old. The Compressor has a label indicating the refrigerant is R135a. Other numbers on the label are BD35F,"Danfoss", and 1012 0200. I am guessing BD35F is the Model No.

I believe s R134a is the more environmentally friendly compared to the A12 used in older machines. There is a copper tube containing a Shrader valve. Same I believe as on a bicycle or car tire but the copper tube it is inside a threaded access so the standard hose/gauge I've used to recharge the air conditioning system in my car will not work. I have reasonably good access and it seems this should be a fairly straightforward thing to do? Anyone?

[SVSOLITAIRE]

I’m certain others are more knowledgeable, but here’s my two cents.

Assuming the unit is in good condition ie no damage to plate, oil still present in the compressor etc. You can find and adapter for the fill valve that can attach to whatever your using for your vehicle but in my opinion it would be worth while to have a separate hose with a pressure meter that uses the small 134a cans. There are numerous videos online concerning the actual fill process but you won’t to make sure the can is upright and the system is in taking gas not liquid. The pressure is low (11 psi I believe but google recommended).

Once filled the the bottom half should frost over and the copper lines exiting the unit should not have frost. The manual is available in pdf for free online. Definitely worth the read. There have also been several threads previously devoted to this topic that would be worth reading.

Best of luck. Hope you end up with cold soda.

[Richard Kollmann]

Originally Posted by robertmfranklin

My Adler Barbour Cold Machine is around 25 years old. The Compressor has a label indicating the refrigerant is R135a. Other numbers on the label are BD35F,"Danfoss", and 1012 0200. I am guessing BD35F is the Model No.

I believe s R134a is the more environmentally friendly compared to the A12 used in older machines. There is a copper tube containing a Shrader valve. Same I believe as on a bicycle or car tire but the copper tube it is inside a threaded access so the standard hose/gauge I've used to recharge the air conditioning system in my car will not work. I have reasonably good access and it seems this should be a fairly straightforward thing to do? Anyone?

What indication do you have that it needs refrigerant? Is there any Frost on evaporator? If you leave unit running for 20 minutes will compressor feel any warmer? Do you have a way to determine the amp draw of unit now? If so what is the amp reading.

The only BD35 compressor units AB sold were around 1996 all more recent units have BD50 compressors. Does this unit have a stainless steel evaporator plate or a thin aluminum white evaporator plate?

Yes it it needs R134a refrigerant you will need servicing equipment that adapts 134a standards to the older stile Freon fitting on BD35 compressor. The correct refrigerant charge on that system is when it is drawing five amps.

After answering the questions that better define your problem and what must be done if it is loss of refrigerant you will need a lot more how to proceed information.

[robertmfranklin]

Richard,

1996 seems about right given what I know of the history of my 1972 P36. Originaly it was an ice box, when I purchased the boat 8 years old in 1980. I sold it in 1990 and the next owner installed the Cold Machine. It has a white think plate evaporator. I purchased the boat back in 2005 motivated by loss and nostalgia.

I had not reason to believe the system was not operating properly until first trying to run it in early July. It seemed to short cycle constantly and had an led light suggesting low voltage, but my batteries registered 12.6. I began an investigation primarily checking to be sure the thermostat was working properly, although I am not familiar with how the capillary tube affects the T-stat. Although the unit is in a dry location I considered environmental factors and tightenbed any loose screws, namely those in the control module and the heavey duty positive and ground to the power supply.

A few days ago after doing that "maintenance" I was aboard and ran the unit for about an hour. Suddenly is seemed to be running effectively. Sold accumulated on the evaporator almost to the point of frost and maybe would have become more frosty if I waited longer. There was nothing in the ice box.

I thought about charging the unit at the port provided, but once I realized the threaded tube was not compatible with the hose from my R134 can purchased from the local auto zone and after a very short burst of pressure was released ... very short because I have read about the consequence ... I stopped thinking, do no harm.

I am a compulsive do it yourselfer and it is hard for me to keep my hands off, but that is what I am doing for now. My plan when I go cruising a month from now, nothing for the next few weeks, is to load up with 20 lbs of ice and work both cooling sources, the ice and the Adler Barbour together, and see how that works out.

I have no idea how to measure the amperage. I should probably get a thermometer to register the temperature in the box and I shold probably not expect too much from the system, but I sure could use a cold drink.

Thanks for your interest. Same to SVSOLITAIRE. I realize all of this is old news to most people on the Forum. Where is the "free manual" Solitaire refers to? Do either of you have a link? It is the Adler Barbour owner's manual?

I am thinking about a threaded adapter that will take the standard automotive recharge hose from Advance Auto, but I am also remembering the medical mantra to "do no harm". Maybe I should just leave well enough along for now even though I'd like to give it a quick shot of R134a.

Sorry its not a quick reply. Mine never tend to be.

[Richard Kollmann]

Robert, If there is more than one screw holding control module to unit then it is most likely not a newer variable speed BD35 or BD50 compressor using R134a refrigerant. Is there a blue label on unit indicating BD 3 or that it is a R134a refrigerant unit? Is the part number till on Module?

Compressor not starting is not a result of loss of any amount of refrigerant loss.
Hopefully you did not add or contaminate system messing with it.

Failure of Danfoss BD compressors to complete the boot up starting sequence is in boat wiring, clean 12.5 volts and unrestricted amps. Is there an external fuse on outside of module?


With a plugged cap tube and correct volume of refrigerant will also not prevent compressor from booting up.

[robertmfranklin]

Richard,

I don't think I messed up the system. When I tried to attache the standard snap on hose/gauge the was a moment of pressure relief and I pulled the hose away. Then just to be sure there was a Schrader valve in the tube, I nudged it with my finger and similarly a very short burst. I had read some of your cautions so that is all I did and nothing more.

The Control Module is held to the base with two screws. There are two spade fuses one over the other located on the module above the wiring connector. The upper is 15 amp and the lower is 5 amp.

I have a photo of the compressor with the label clear, the module and the fill port.

The compressor label says BD35F, R134a "Danfoss". Also 101Z, 0200 "Made in Germany.

May I text the photos to you?

Bob

[robertmfranklin]

Richard,

There is also a part number on the wiring connector, the part that has the LED message light. That number is Z4150. It is followed by "Copyright 1998 Kenyon Intl, Inc.

The wires on this Module, which are only the hot and ground plus two much smaller gauge wires come from another unit. Maybe that "other unit" is the module and part no. Z4i50 is only a message system?

Bob Franklin

[Richard Kollmann]

Originally Posted by robertmfranklin

Richard,

I don't think I messed up the system. When I tried to attache the standard snap on hose/gauge the was a moment of pressure relief and I pulled the hose away. Then just to be sure there was a Schrader valve in the tube, I nudged it with my finger and similarly a very short burst. I had read some of your cautions so that is all I did and nothing more.

The Control Module is held to the base with two screws. There are two spade fuses one over the other located on the module above the wiring connector. The upper is 15 amp and the lower is 5 amp.

I have a photo of the compressor with the label clear, the module and the fill port.

The compressor label says BD35F, R134a "Danfoss". Also 101Z, 0200 "Made in Germany.

May I text the photos to you?

Bob

Yes, Photos module and wire connections and where fuses are located. Remove the 15 amp fuse and see if its contacts are discolored like overheated. I assume the LED never lights up?