recommissioning spectra catalina 300 - system stalled

[Katabolic]

I'm looking for expertise with the spectra catalina 300 watermaker or similar. I'm still at the level of identifying the component parts of the system. I probably shouldn't be allowed to have nice things like this.
We got the unit with a boat we bought last summer. It worked well last year once Halden Marine Services checked it over and reconnected the control panel that had a broken connecter.
We "winterized" it following the instructions with a potable antifreeze, but this season (Maine) we're having trouble restarting it. It turns out that I powered off the control panel but did not shut off power to the unit itself. Now it will run a "flush" with seacock open (flushing fails "service prefilter" with seacock closed), but never offered to "purge" automatically and instead restarts twice and reports "system stalled". Is there a way to force a reset to make it purge, or is there something i should do to check for an air lock of some kind? Or could we have some other, new issue, like a flow pump problem or blocked fresh water line?
One thing we noticed when recommissioning the fresh water system was a steady slow flow from the brine discharge if the valve was open at the carbon filter (from fresh water into the watermaker). So i've been leaving that valve turned off except when trying to flush and run the watermaker.

Thanks!

[belizesailor]

The user "Tellie" here is the owner of Halden Marine so hopefully he will chime in.

Sometimes systems will lock up due to pressure/air in the system. This usually only happens when the pressure relief valve is closed. This state can often be resolved just by opening the pressure relief valve, flushing breifly, closing the pressure relief valve and restarting.

However, for initial flushing the pressure relief valve should be open. Is yours open or closed?

[Katabolic]

@belizesailor I've tried both ways. Same behavior - the "auto run" starts up, then resets, tries two more times then "system stalled". The flush fails if I have the seawater intake seacock closed so I'm wondering if I have a freshwater flow problem. I will be checking into that this evening.

[Tellie]

A "system stalled" is usually about 95% of the time a false alarm. This stalled alarm means that it detects that the Clark pump is not shifting. If you left the power on to the unit there is a possible battery back up located on the main control board keeping a memory. Shut off the main power at the breaker and let the system sit for an hour. Then re-apply power and the control panel should say "Open Pressure Relief Valve Now" If you see this then just follow the instructions. The reason you are getting a system stalled is most likely you have the pressure relief valve (PRV) open and are trying to run the system in normal operating mode with the PRV open. This will always give you the system stalled and try to re-start three times. If you can't get the control panel to say "Open pressure relief valve now" because of the battery backup, just open the pressure relief valve one full turn, run the system in the manual mode for 30 minutes (at the toggle switch) After that put the system back into auto run (at toggle switch), close the pressure relief valve and then run the system in normal auto run at the control panel. If the system is in good shape, you should be back in business. Let me know if you have any issues.

[Katabolic]

Thanks @Tellie! Unfortunately the system is hard-wired with no breaker. I'll have to disconnect it to cut power completely. I tried running the system manually with the pressure relief valve open for 30 minutes, then switched back to automatic, closed the valve, and tried "auto run" but got the same "system stalled" result. I'll try disconnecting all power next (and add a breaker when i can get one).

Appreciate the help and especially the knowledge that this "system stalled" is usually not a serious problem!

[AKA-None]

Originally Posted by Katabolic

Thanks @Tellie! Unfortunately the system is hard-wired with no breaker. I'll have to disconnect it to cut power completely. I tried running the system manually with the pressure relief valve open for 30 minutes, then switched back to automatic, closed the valve, and tried "auto run" but got the same "system stalled" result. I'll try disconnecting all power next (and add a breaker when i can get one).



Appreciate the help and especially the knowledge that this "system stalled" is usually not a serious problem!

I’m far from an expert but I really think you should have a breaker or fuse installed somewhere in the power line

You certain there isn’t one somewhere between the unit and the battery connection?

[Tellie]

Originally Posted by AKA-None

I’m far from an expert but I really think you should have a breaker or fuse installed somewhere in the power line

You certain there isn’t one somewhere between the unit and the battery connection?

Absolutely correct. There "MUST" be a breaker (preferable), or a fuse installed within two feet of the power source to the watermaker. I would follow every inch of the power feed from the watermakers terminal strip back to the power source. You may find a breaker following this route. If there is no breaker, please install one right away. This breaker protects the feed wires, this is where a lot of electrical fires start from, an unprotected feed. This in my mind is more important than a working watermaker.

[Tellie]

Originally Posted by Katabolic

Thanks @Tellie! Unfortunately the system is hard-wired with no breaker. I'll have to disconnect it to cut power completely. I tried running the system manually with the pressure relief valve open for 30 minutes, then switched back to automatic, closed the valve, and tried "auto run" but got the same "system stalled" result. I'll try disconnecting all power next (and add a breaker when i can get one).

Appreciate the help and especially the knowledge that this "system stalled" is usually not a serious problem!

You may have a stuck or bad roto flow meter. If you run the system manually with the pressure relief valve closed, remove the small 1/4" product tube from the end of the membrane vessel. If there is water flowing out of this fitting, then it is most likely the roto flow meter. The roto flow meter sends an electronic signal to the control board that there is water being produced. The way it works is that the product water produced first flows through the roto flow meter that turns a small wheel and the speed of this wheel tells us how many gallons per hour are being produced. If this wheel gets stuck where the product water is flowing by the roto flow meter, but the wheel does not turn you will get the "System Stalled" alarm. If you send me a few pics of your system, especially the Clark pump membrane module I will tell you where to look for the roto flow meter on your system. You will be able to see this roto flow meter working as it is a clear housing to view the wheel spinning.

[Katabolic]

Hi, Finally back working on this one. I disconnected the product flow and get water there on manual. I traced down the rotoflow and it is hard to see, the way it the lines run and the unit is up against the port hull... but it does not seem to be turning.
Tellie, if you're out there, if i take out the rotoflow can I spin it by hand, or is there a good way to confirm the problem? Can it be fixed or should I replace the rotoflow?
Also, in working with the unit, i noticed that water comes out the brine waste line even when the power is off, but the fresh water system is under pressure. Is that normal?

Thanks all!

[Tellie]

Hi, Finally back working on this one. I disconnected the product flow and get water there on manual. I traced down the rotoflow and it is hard to see, the way it the lines run and the unit is up against the port hull... but it does not seem to be turning.
Tellie, if you're out there, if i take out the rotoflow can I spin it by hand, or is there a good way to confirm the problem? Can it be fixed or should I replace the rotoflow?
Also, in working with the unit, i noticed that water comes out the brine waste line even when the power is off, but the fresh water system is under pressure. Is that normal?

Thanks all!


The roto flow meter is bad. Replace it. When you remove the old one you will see an arrow molded on the clear part of this meter. Blow through it in the direction 0of the arrow. A good flow meter will easily spin and you'll see and feel it so. DO NOT do this to the new roto flow meter as you can easily over rpm it and do irreparable damage to it. But if the old one does not spin you will get the system stalled alarm after it has tried to re-start three times. So, a new roto flow meter for you.
The water going overboard from the brine discharge when the system is totally shut down is a sign of a bad or dirty freshwater flush coil. This is allowing a small amount of fresh water from your tanks to slowly slip by the plunger that stops this. Usually, a good cleaning of this coil is all it takes. But if you don't address this it can drain your freshwater tanks. Do you hear your house freshwater pump kicking on every now and then when no water is being used?

[Katabolic]

That's exactly what I hear when I leave the valves open to the watermaker - that freshwataer pump likes to grind and my water tanks empty rapidly.

Any tips on where to get a replacement roto flow meter?

[Tellie]

Originally Posted by Katabolic

That's exactly what I hear when I leave the valves open to the watermaker - that freshwataer pump likes to grind and my water tanks empty rapidly. Like I mentioned, this is 99% most likely in the freshwater flush coil.

Any tips on where to get a replacement roto flow meter?

Hmmmm, I'm not sure, let me think on that.

[Tellie]

Just kiddin, pretty much anything you need for a Spectra I'll have in stock. Rotoflow meters as well.

Give me a call and I'll get you set up. We should talk a bit first as well before you go any further to make sure all bases are covered. Now, who do we find that has the O-rings.....Oh yeah... me! LOL