Redoing my bilge pumps (3 questions)

[C420sailor]

I don’t understand why Practical Sailor advises no auto switch on the larger pump.

What if something happens while you’re away from the boat and you’re not there to activate the large pump?

[dfelsent]

We’ve got one auto bilge pump. Two large manual diaphragm pumps and as a backup a hose that can be used to plumb the wash down pump into the bilge.
The high water alarm is tied to the auto bilge pump. That does not go off under normal circumstances.
The smaller of the two diaphragm pumps is used daily to keep the bilge dry.
I count the strokes.

[CarlF]

I have much of what others suggested

My daily bilge pump is a whale gulper with a 3/4" hose and a strainer. This doesn't pump a huge amount of water but will absolutely never clog or fail. The switch is an Ultra switch - worth the extra money for the peace of mind. There is a manual switch too. The small hose means that very little water back flows when it turns off so there's no danger of it cycling - and no need for a check valve that you really don't want in a bilge pump.

The "emergency" pump is a Rule 3700 with 1.5" hose on a regular rule float switch. It is mounted 4" higher and never gets wet from normal bilge water. This pump has no manual switch on the panel. I test the float switch every six months by flicking it up.

The Rule 3700 is also connected to the high water alarm.

When wiring your system make sure that there is no chance of a DC electrical leak into bilge water as that is a frequent cause of severe galvanic corrosion. Put all wire splices several feet above the bilge water level. Inspect occasionally for any damage to wire insulation.

Put a small bright LED by the helm that shows when the bilge pump has turned on.

[kaisardog]

i have an old par jabsco diaphragm bilge pump, OEM 1980 in my rhodes 30.(and moved it to my next 2 boats as i loved it so much, as the bilge is almost dry with no run back from the hose contents. ) i rebuilt it last year for $47.00. i also have an old working P-J diaphragm fresh water supply pump that i'm in the process of rebuilding. the old P J diaphragm pumps were great, don't know about the new ones except that they're about $400...

[mcarthur]

Also think how many compartments you need bilge pumps in. Our powercat has (or will have once I've done some work!) 4 watertight(ish) compartments - per hull. If we properly prepare for problems then there probably should be 8 pumps, and the engine rooms should have a low and high water alarm and pump. So potentially 10 pumps and 10 through-hulls!

Your boat is different, but you may have at least 2 compartments (engine room, main hull) that you need to cater for.

[Bill_Giles]

A 1.125” outlet pipe presupposes that you only have a similar sized hole or leak in your boat. Of equal importance is how your pumps are to be powered and how long can the power source(s) continue when the water level is rising. Do you also have a manual pump? Do you also have some buckets with strong handles.

As an aside I have wondered about having an auxiliary ’gusher’ pump which could be driven directly from the engine in case of need.

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by Anders

A bilge pump should never be off so wire both pumps directly to separate float switches with a push button to operate the lower pump when you want to check if there is any water in the bilge. The on-off-auto switches makes no sence at all to me.

On-off-auto switches make no sense to me either. The manual position being momentary makes no sense. Assume the float doesn't work in a flooding situation - the last thing you should be doing then is keeping a finger on a switch. Better to look for the leak.

I would wire the float switches directly to an always on power source with the appropriate fusing. Wire the manual to a SPST switch on the panel or near to it.

And add a high water alarm.

And each pump should have its own dedicated outlet.

[CarinaPDX]

Originally Posted by mitiempo

On-off-auto switches make no sense to me either. The manual position being momentary makes no sense. Assume the float doesn't work in a flooding situation - the last thing you should be doing then is keeping a finger on a switch. Better to look for the leak.

I have never seen a momentary-on bilge pump switch - each position must be stable (non-returning or non-momentary). The auto position is the default position. Sometimes the sensors fail to turn on so the manual on position is necessary to engage the pump. And sometimes the sensors stick on, which is why the off position is needed. Over the years I have needed to use all three positions and cannot see any other way that would be as safe and flexible.

Greg

[sailcrazy]

I redid the bilge pump system in our boat several years ago. We have a Rule 2000 sitting on the bilge floor, and (now, after a couple of float-type switches failed to operate) installed an electronic switch about 3" above the pump intake. Then I installed a second Rule 2000_electronic switch just above the top of the first pump. and then I installed a Johnson Hi-water alarm above the 2nd pump. Both pumps work off a "Auto-Off-On switch on the Nav panel, one for each pump. Both remain in the "Auto" position....unless I choose to test them. Each pump has a dedicated drainline and thruhull. And the comment regarding water draining back in is spot-on....that's why the primary electronic sw it 3" above the pump inlet, to prevent continual cycling. also, since our bilge is deep and narrow, I made a "tree" of 3/4" pvc pipe, with a 90* leg for ea pump to be mounted to-I can pull the whole assembly out as a unit to clean/check/etc. Works good!

[mitiempo]

Originally Posted by CarinaPDX

I have never seen a momentary-on bilge pump switch - each position must be stable (non-returning or non-momentary). The auto position is the default position.
Greg

The switch below is pretty common. The manual position is momentary as are all on/off/auto Rule bilge pump switches.

Note the last line in the description:

These panels control pumps equipped with an automatic float switch or a float switch/pump combo. Models 41 through 45 have three switch positions: automatic, off and manual. Models 43 and 44 are made from an impact-resistant, UV-stabilized plastic.

This unit features a black plastic panel with the Rule "fail-safe" spring return to "off" from the "manual" position.

[CarinaPDX]

OK, that is not very clever. They probably did it to protect their pump from running dry; the Rule centrifugal pumps run the bilge water around the motor to cool it on the way up and out - they risk burnout without the cooling. It would make sense for a dewatering pump, perhaps, but not an emergency pump. Sheeeesh.

Greg

[HarrisonM]

All done!!!! It took me 4 weekends to get it done, but now I have a second bilge pump and high water alarm all working....

AND THE CROWD GOES WILD!!!!!!

I installed a Rule 3700 GPH pump. It is completely independent from the first pump. It has its own switch which is about 6 inches above the first pump. I installed a new 1 1/2" inch corrugated hose. I was forced to go with corrugated due to some of the tight spaces the hose had to travers... I even cut a new thru hull for the discharge! (Wow that gave me the heebie-jeebies) It also has its own 3-way panel switch and I ran all new electrical for it. The high water alarm is also completely independent. In addition to these 2 installed bilge pumps I also have a 2000 GPH crash pump! I have it rigged to output via a garden hose which isn't really ideal for the discharge, but it is an emergency pump and can be deployed fast if needed.

Next project is to redo my teak

[GreenWave]

Sounds great Harrison!

[ramron67]

Originally Posted by HarrisonM

All done!!!! It took me 4 weekends to get it done, but now I have a second bilge pump and high water alarm all working....

AND THE CROWD GOES WILD!!!!!!

I installed a Rule 3700 GPH pump. It is completely independent from the first pump. It has its own switch which is about 6 inches above the first pump. I installed a new 1 1/2" inch corrugated hose. I was forced to go with corrugated due to some of the tight spaces the hose had to travers... I even cut a new thru hull for the discharge! (Wow that gave me the heebie-jeebies) It also has its own 3-way panel switch and I ran all new electrical for it. The high water alarm is also completely independent. In addition to these 2 installed bilge pumps I also have a 2000 GPH crash pump! I have it rigged to output via a garden hose which isn't really ideal for the discharge, but it is an emergency pump and can be deployed fast if needed.

Well done Harrison. This is a project that I am also planning on taking on this winter.
I need to install a second bilge pump with a high water alarm. I am terrified about adding a new through hull however.

Thanks for the motivation.

[CarinaPDX]

Originally Posted by ramron67

I need to install a second bilge pump with a high water alarm. I am terrified about adding a new through hull however.

Since the thru-hull should be high up on the topsides or transom I don't see why you should be concerned - no significant risk involved. Just take your time to get the location right (measure twice, cut once). It would be a bummer to have to repair and cut a new hole...

Greg