Replacement Refrigeration Compressor (Engine Driven)

[James Diego]

Send some photos of your unit and I will see if it can be adapted to mine

I can be contacted at 6197395025 or svmichelle1@hotmail.com

Sincerely,
James Wisda

[James Diego]

I am interested in the Seltec. I have a Blissfield CA compressor on a water cooled system. Do you know if they will swap?


James

[alcheringa]

The refrigeration on my 1982 Whitby 42 is water-cooled with a Tecumseh HGC 1000 belt driven by a large 12v electric motor. It worked very well when we bought the boat but is a fairly energy hungry system. The compressor seized 14 months ago and the refrigeration company I used replaced it with a new one rather than rebuild. I've had nothing but trouble since. It has now stopped working altogether as it seems to putting to much load on the electric motor which then burns out its solenoid. I am tossing up whether to replace the lot with a danfoss system or look for a rotary style compressor as a replacement which I'm told should be far more energy efficient than the Tecumseh piston compressor. Does anyone know if a viable rotary compressor replacement exists or have any other suggestions?

[James Diego]

Wow! I have the same problem on a 1978 Formosa 41 with a Fleming R134a refrigeration unit using a Blissfield compressor that is not longer made. After much soul searching, I have decided to replace only the compressor with a new rotary 12v or 120v compressor and am trying to understand how to determine to correct size and how to adapt the rotary compressor to work with my existing refrigeration components.

That may take a while and in the meantime I am using a 1.3 cu ft. 120v mini-fridge to keep the milk cold and I am surprised at the low amp draw from my inverter.

What I need is a little help to determine the correct size compressor needed for a 8 cu ft., cold plate, water cooled, freezer/spill over refer, 12v or 120v unit and I think I can adapt compressor into my existing components.

Any refer tech cruisers out there with thoughts on how to begin this selection process??

Thx
James

[Richardj.martin]

Does anyone have any recent experience with replacing the crankshaft seal on a Blissfield reciprocating compressor? The units are out of production, so I’m looking for an after market supplier. As far as I can tell my unit is model CG and has a Blissfield no of 99216-1. Its engine driven via 2 belts. Like most yachties I dont use if frequently enough and the seal has dried out. It will hold a pressure, but not a suction.
Thanks for your help.

[wsmurdoch]

I have bought things from R-Parts. They may have what you are looking for...
Blissfield Compressor - RPARTS.COM I'd also check with a local refrigeration equipment supplier, or read the part number off the old seal (surely it is a standard part).

I have a Sanden SD5H14 (S6664) engine driven compressor on my boat.

Bill

Bill

[Dougtiff]

Carefuly remove the seal, there's a # on it, no big deal t replace.

[Bermuda Forte]

Originally Posted by Richard Kollmann

I purchased a new Watkins 32 in 1983 without refrigeration. I designed my boat’s refrigeration using parts from the air conditioning system taken from a 1978 dodge Omni small car. The compressor was a Sanko SD508. Evaporator from this car was placed inside a stainless steel tank filled with a food grade glycol with eutectic solution set to freeze at +6 degrees F. The cars ½ ton expansion valve was also used to control refrigerant flow. Seawater condense, high and low pressure switches and a low on refrigerant safety switches were items I purchased new. Total cost of system $300.



The first generation of car air-conditioners allowed all belt energy pressure to be carried by bearing inside compressor that also could damage shaft seal. The second generation car compressors like the Sanko, Desiel and Sanden added mutable pistons dampening resident frequency vibration and used the clutch bearing to transfer all belt loads direct to compressor structure.



The compressor I got from junk yard after 30 years and 8000 engine hours was in original condition when I sold the boat. I think I was responsible for over 200 of these compressor used in DIY boat refrigerators. The simple fact that my system designs worked so well is slow compressor speeds and the three safety pressure switches that guard against compressor or other types of failures.

Three pressure switches? I’m rebuilding my Grunert with a new Sanden SD7H15. I got a replacement HP switch from Ocean Options (Where the original system cam from). I think the old HP switch may have failed and thus killed the compressor. What type and where did you install switches? Thanks!

[wsmurdoch]

Attached is a drawing of the mechanical parts of my Kollman Marine refrigeration system. There are three pressure switches. One is on the suction of the compressor to stop the compressor should it go too low. The second is on the compressor discharge to keep from over pressurizing the discharge piping and equipment. The third is a low pressure switch on the high pressure side (on the filter/dryer/receiver) to stop the compressor if the system has lost its charge.

Also attached is a bit of the wiring drawing of my engine wiring showing the 12V refrigeration controls. (The exhaust temperature switch is on the engine exhaust after the cooling water injection and has nothing to do with the fridge.)

[SV THIRD DAY]

Originally Posted by James Diego

Wow! I have the same problem on a 1978 Formosa 41 with a Fleming R134a refrigeration unit using a Blissfield compressor that is not longer made. After much soul searching, I have decided to replace only the compressor with a new rotary 12v or 120v compressor and am trying to understand how to determine to correct size and how to adapt the rotary compressor to work with my existing refrigeration components.

That may take a while and in the meantime I am using a 1.3 cu ft. 120v mini-fridge to keep the milk cold and I am surprised at the low amp draw from my inverter.

What I need is a little help to determine the correct size compressor needed for a 8 cu ft., cold plate, water cooled, freezer/spill over refer, 12v or 120v unit and I think I can adapt compressor into my existing components.

Any refer tech cruisers out there with thoughts on how to begin this selection process??

Thx
James

Hi James
Just email Info@TechnauticsInc.com
We have been building Holding plate refrigeration systems since 1968, the oldest marine refrigeration company around.

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by Bermuda Forte

I’m rebuilding my Grunert with a new Sanden SD7H15.

BF, we've been discussing your system on another thread.
I thought you were getting an SD5xxx, perhaps I misunderstood.
Mr. Kollmann's statement about compressor speed in the quote of his you referenced is quite important.
The SD7s are a large capacity unit, most cold-plate systems that use an engine drive compressor are "evaporator limited".
As such the compressor is capable of driving much heavier loads than typically sized cold plates have in their capacity to absorb heat.
That is the main limiting factor in most engine drive systems.
Keep the speed down.

[Bermuda Forte]

Thanks for the replies Bowdrie.

The old compressor was a Tama Seltec 150 CC and the closest match for fit and size is the SD7.

I read the advice about starting the compressor at low RPMs, something I never did over the course of 25 + years operating it, and I’ll be mindful of this now and in the future.

As for running, the pulley sizes are pretty close to 1:1 and the Perkins diesel is at about 1800 during normal cruising speed. Is that too high? The Sanden data sheet suggests speeds of 4,000 to 6000 rpm but I assume that’s for running a big truck AC system.

A local refrigeration guy found a replacement TXV for me to replace the old one. Cost almost as much as the compressor!

One thing I’m having trouble with is finding new hoses. And do they need to be so big? Fittings are #10 (7/8”) suction low side and #8 (3/4”) discharge high side. The system copper tubes are 1/2” and 1/4”.

Since my compressor has the capacity, might it be time to consider joining the abandoned tubes from the old secondary system and running them on parallel?

I don’t have access to nitrogen to blow the system down but I have a flush kit I used on the condenser with denatured alcohol. Do you think I should run the alcohol through all the holding plate tubing and then evacuate with the vacuum pump?

Thanks in advance!

Getting close to start up!

[wsmurdoch]

Originally Posted by Bermuda Forte

One thing I’m having trouble with is finding new hoses. And do they need to be so big? Fittings are #10 (7/8”) suction low side and #8 (3/4”) discharge high side. The system copper tubes are 1/2” and 1/4”.

O'Reilly Auto Parts made my last one.

https://coldhose.com/ has also made refrigeration hoses for me. Their web site will let you know what is available.

[BigAl.NZ]

Originally Posted by James Diego

Wow! I have the same problem on a 1978 Formosa 41 with a Fleming R134a refrigeration unit using a Blissfield compressor that is not longer made. After much soul searching, I have decided to replace only the compressor with a new rotary 12v or 120v compressor and am trying to understand how to determine to correct size and how to adapt the rotary compressor to work with my existing refrigeration components.

That may take a while and in the meantime I am using a 1.3 cu ft. 120v mini-fridge to keep the milk cold and I am surprised at the low amp draw from my inverter.

What I need is a little help to determine the correct size compressor needed for a 8 cu ft., cold plate, water cooled, freezer/spill over refer, 12v or 120v unit and I think I can adapt compressor into my existing components.

Any refer tech cruisers out there with thoughts on how to begin this selection process??

Thx
James

I think we have a old Blissfield compressor - maybe HG100 - can you change the oil on this thing without loosing the refrigerant?