Salt water galley pump

[mako]

17 is certainly an extreme that I wouldn’t want to face. I would agree that having the engine on a dedicated SC is a good idea, especially on a powerboat.

However just one additional valve could serve all other needs by way of a sea chest or just a metal manifold.

[malbert73]

Originally Posted by wingssail

Reluctance to add through hull openings should not be characterized as "fear".

I have that reluctance. I am not fearful.

But why then am I reluctant to add holes in my boat?

There are several principles I try to follow when considering changes to my boat. I realize that there will be guffaws far and wide over such small considerations, but consistently applying these and other principles have kept our boat light, fast, and easily maintainable, while being comfortable and convenient.

Here are a few which apply to this situation.

1. Focus on Simplicity. If one through hull works, then I can avoid two. It is simpler, less complex.
2. Reduce drag. Fewer drag adding holes in the hull. This principle extends to everything which makes a boat slower, however minor.
3. Remove stuff instead of adding stuff. A boat is not something you buy to put things on, you buy it for sailing. If I want to buy stuff and store them somewhere, I'll get a storage locker.

Note that I do not mention fear.



To Bowdrie and malbert73, If you think people make choices like this based on fear, I think you might be projecting.

You quoted me twice [emoji3]

But seriously I overspoke on fear. You bring up other good reasons.
But for me personally I’d rather install another high quality seacock rather than stake my engine’s water intake on a check valve.

I feel like it’s daring your engine to start sucking air just as you’re trying to stay off a reef or enter a narrow pass.

[Rob19321]

Its not a direct answer, but the risk alone doesn't seem worth the reward... engines are not cheap as the possible "worst case" outcome.

[Happ]

Originally Posted by JD-MDR

But where to hook it up?? I dont want another hole in the boat. I didnt want to spend much labor or money. I guess I’ll jut keep a 2 gal bucket Only for washing dishes

If you are only planning on doing dishes go with the bucket. Rinse with fresh water. KISS!

[Nibiruwayne]

I would make up a manifold with ball valves to isolate any distribution of the sea water intake. That way you can shut off at the manifold while underway if you wish and engine running. makes repairs easier, the main seacock can do that, but you may not want to remove seawater intake from the engine. Route the head plumbing from the manifold, as well. Just sayin'. whatever you do, get some good advice about anti-siphon layout.
An engine can over heat pretty quick, and unless your warning sound system is spot on, you could miss it. Ditto on the foot pump.

[Jeffrey1950]

If your cockpit drains exit at a seacock as they probably do, you could consider using a T in at the seacock and routing it to a foot pump. Whichever seacock you use, make sure it’s not on the same side as the heads discharge which is upstream of it………..

[Hermia II]

Often, like in my boat, after the intake strainer there is a manifold, usually a straight tube, water coming in at one end and out to the engine the other end. Along this tube outlets to ½" hoses for refrigerator cooling, diesel generator, sea water in galley etc. with a shut off for each. It works perfectly.

[SOLAR SUPPORT]

How many days do you live at anchor at sea every year? If I was moored at sea for more than 45-60 days, I would be installing a throughull connected to the seawater pump when the boat is on land.

I tried what you were thinking of doing. This is not good because air is getting into the seawater coolant pump, causing the engine temperature to rise too high. My engine overheating alarm alerted me while I was motoring in calm weather. At that moment I noticed that no water was flowing from the exhaust outlet. I stopped the engine and found that the recently added "T" connected seawater pump inlet valve was forgotten open. Normally it closes before the engine starts. After this incident I canceled the "T" fitting and left my Engine's seawater cooler purchase alone. Now I use a hose with a small filter attached to the end. I just release it from the hold to the sea. The electric pump has the ability to absorb sea water when it starts working. Seawater pump operation is controlled by an automatic internal pressure sensor.

[sailorladd]

I installed a separate salt water tap in my galley as well, thinking it was a great idea, and yes I used separate plumbing from the fresh water strainer etc, but it wasn't too long before I removed it, as my cutlery and sink all started showing signs of rust, and corrosion as well as a nasty smell from the salt water tap... I thought it was a great idea to wash dishes etc but I found out it wasn't really such a smart move...

[Dieseldude]

As others have said, you face the possibility of having the engine sea water pump suck air and starve the engine of cooling. Even a check valve can fail due to marine growth, foreign objects, or just mechanical failure. And of course to service the valve, you would need to pull the boat out of water. If it is convenient to access, you might fit a manually operated valve right at the tee to open only when you run the pump, and close right away. The valve would need to be a screw down non return type. It would be a bother to turn the valve for every operation of the pump, so could end up being left open. And even with best intentions, someone can forget to close the valve.


I would recommend it best to plan on adding another through hole fitting next time you have your boat out of water, and if course it will need a screw down non return valve, and rugged piping to the pump and sink. Also should have an isolation valve right at the suction side of the pump to isolate the pump for servicing. If you go ahead with the job, it would be good safety to wire a timer to the pump to automatically shut it off after a few minutes running to insure nobody walks away with pump running, and causing a flood. You probably want your new through hull fitting on the opposite side of the boat from your sewage discharge for some isolation the clean water intake from sewage discharge.

[nonav]

As mentioned already, there is a concern over air in your engine raw water, effecting flow.

I may have missed it, but the other concern is, in the event you need to shut off the galley water seacock, it might be more convenient to have the seacock in the locker under the galley sink rather than constantly heading to the engine compartment.

[Cynara]

We always closed the engine intake when we weren't using the engine

[barryglewis]

The idea of connecting salt water inlet (to be used for washing dishes) to the sink waste is - interesting.

We mainly used to use a bucket for salt water, but Risky is fast enough to make that hard, as well as costly in buckets when the handle comes away!
We have a general purpose Saltwater inlet with an NZ Truedesign seasick, and a foot pump

[Dieseldude]

Connecting a clean sea water suction to the sink discharge seems to be counter productive. How can you get clean water for dish washing through a dirty pipe that dirty dish water discharges through. The pipes will be layered with fats, food sludge, and detergent residue. I have seen them plug up solid and require snaking out. Discharge pipes are typically above, or slightly below the water line. If above, of course not workable. If slightly below, suction may not be reliable in anything but calm seas. A separate fitting for the pump suction may seem like an expense and bother, but it is the most hygienic and safest.

[rls8r]

I have a hose connected to a seacock in the V-berth area which runs (pretty much) the length of the boat. The hose provides water to the deck wash pump, is "Teed" to provide salt water to a faucet in the head, and ends at the salt water faucet in the galley.

I'm using the same brass Fynspray hand pump that is original equipment - still works great and one can still get repair kits with replacement rings.