Seacock and through hull plastic/ steal / other

[Manateeman]

Three threads...all the same points and counterpoints being made...nothing new.
Please read all my prior posts.
The moderators ought to close all the seacock threads.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by tsenator

There is a HUGE different between "Plastic" thru hulls and Marelon Reinforced Nylon Polymer -- There isn't a insurance company I know of that has a problem with a properly installed Marelon Thru Hull - "Marelon meets or exceeds ABYC (American Boat & Yacht Council) and ISO 9093-2 Standards".



https://www.forespar.com/marelon-abyc-iso.shtml

As I mentioned I know a guy about To change to “‘plastic “ so i most ask him about insurance.

I do know others have mentioned the same feedback from insurers in the past.

[tsenator]

Originally Posted by goboatingnow

As I mentioned I know a guy about To change to “‘plastic “ so i most ask him about insurance.

I do know others have mentioned the same feedback from insurers in the past.

Really I'd love to know "what insurers" say that you cannot have Marelon if the ABYC & ISO certified like Forespar and Tru Design Marelon Thru Hull/Seacocks .

You can't say "plastic" that doesn't mean Marelon.


I wish people for once in these threads give SPECIFICS and not conjecture and hearsay.

Kind of funny because Forespar says that many high end builders use their Marelon

"Marelon® plumbing is now used by custom builders such as Wally Yachts, Oyster, Swan, Baltic, Morris and many other production builders such as Wellcraft, Boston Whaler, Sabre, Godfrey, Triton, Hinkley, S-2, Baja, Cobalt, and more than 100 others, power and sail. Virtually all North American production boat builders use some Marelon® plumbing components in their boats. Forespar® ships over 45,000 valves a year to service these builders and have been supplying quality-plumbing components made of engineering polymers since 1982."

https://www.forespar.com/marelon-history-1.shtml

Is someone saying they know an insurer that wont insure a Oyster, or a Swan, or a Baltic, or a Morris ? LOL Too funny .

[tsenator]

Originally Posted by Cyrus Safdari

Which one is the 93 series?

Cyrus The "93 Series" is the robust one. The 850/849 series are the ones I would personally stay away from, not that it will split in half and let water in but in the past the handles were not as robust.

PS No Manufacturer uses the 850/849 series just the 93 series.

Here is the quick catalog

https://www.forespar.com/MarelonSummary.pdf

[CarlF]

I don't know why Forespar keeps selling the 850's. The ball swells and then the handle breaks. It hurts their brand.

The Series 93 is an entirely different product. I've owned 3 boats with them and never had any problems. I "exercise" them twice a year but don't lubricate them. They always move smoothly.

One challenge is that you MUST use the included thruhull - and that thruhull requires a bigger hole than a standard thruhull. Best way to do this is to glue a round piece of plywood into the old seacock hole and then drill the larger hole with a hole saw.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by tsenator

Really I'd love to know "what insurers" say that you cannot have Marelon if the ABYC & ISO certified like Forespar and Tru Design Marelon Thru Hull/Seacocks .

You can't say "plastic" that doesn't mean Marelon.


I wish people for once in these threads give SPECIFICS and not conjecture and hearsay.

Kind of funny because Forespar says that many high end builders use their Marelon

"Marelon[emoji768] plumbing is now used by custom builders such as Wally Yachts, Oyster, Swan, Baltic, Morris and many other production builders such as Wellcraft, Boston Whaler, Sabre, Godfrey, Triton, Hinkley, S-2, Baja, Cobalt, and more than 100 others, power and sail. Virtually all North American production boat builders use some Marelon[emoji768] plumbing components in their boats. Forespar[emoji768] ships over 45,000 valves a year to service these builders and have been supplying quality-plumbing components made of engineering polymers since 1982."

https://www.forespar.com/marelon-history-1.shtml

Is someone saying they know an insurer that wont insure a Oyster, or a Swan, or a Baltic, or a Morris ? LOL Too funny .

I didn’t say there was a problem. But firstly a boat in Europe like oyster certified to the RCD would include certification of the tru hulls

Someone however who replaces a certified metal tru hull with a “ plastic “ one would in essence be decertifying the boat. Insurers will be interested in that.

As I said I know someone doing just so very soon so I’ll ask him.

[DeValency]

Three years ago replaced 15 underwater through hull skin fittings and seacocks with TruDesign composites. If you follow the installation instructions, use 5200 on all threads, the results should be fine.

This is also what I've learned from many other sailors prior to making this selection, as before that I only had bronze fittings, but after one, broke in my hand I started looking for alternatives.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by CarlF

I don't know why Forespar keeps selling the 850's. The ball swells and then the handle breaks. It hurts their brand.

The Series 93 is an entirely different product. I've owned 3 boats with them and never had any problems. I "exercise" them twice a year but don't lubricate them. They always move smoothly.

One challenge is that you MUST use the included thruhull - and that thruhull requires a bigger hole than a standard thruhull. Best way to do this is to glue a round piece of plywood into the old seacock hole and then drill the larger hole with a hole saw.

There’s an easier way: take a piece of scrap plywood and cut a hole of the size you want. Now hold that piece over the spot where the smaller hole is and use it as a guide for the holesaw. Use double sided carpet tape to secure it, just like a router template. You can use it again and again

[s/v Jedi]

For metal boats the most often used thru-hulls are reinforced plastic or stainless steel.

For plastic, the TruDesign valves that have the load bearing collar have been ABYC certified for sizes 3/4” and up. There is no ISO certification that I know of. Here is a link: https://www.trudesign.nz/marine/prod...earing-collars

The TruDesign valves with collars are mimicking the Forespar flanged valves. You need the oem 93 series, not the junk they sell in chandleries (you can buy the good ones online). Here is a link: https://www.forespar.com/pdf/93Serie...stallation.pdf
And they sell them here: https://www.hodgesmarine.com/fsp9040...AaAl6CEALw_wcB

For stainless steel, Groco is the only certified option I know. Here is a link: https://www.groco.net/stainless-steel-aluminum

[goboatingnow]

iso 9093:2001 fully covers plastic tru hulls. The same fitting and assembly strength requirements equally apply to them. Hence they must be as strong as their metallic counterparts

[Rumrace]

I don’t think this forum can survive without a Seacock thread. Talk about flogging a dead horse.
It’s a “one up”on them dang European Boats built in real numbers from a dying industry with nothing new to discuss. It’s the only one up. So up it to the best you can afford and be happy with your decision. Don’t get caught up in lawn chair judges go boatin.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by Rumrace

I don’t think this forum can survive without a Seacock thread. Talk about flogging a dead horse.

It’s a “one up”on them dang European Boats built in real numbers from a dying industry with nothing new to discuss. It’s the only one up. So up it to the best you can afford and be happy with your decision. Don’t get caught up in lawn chair judges go boatin.

Yea but standards are extremely useful. It prevents manufacturers pulling the wool over customers.

“ the best you can afford “ is a difficult choice if you not simply prepared to buy and install the absolute top of the market solution. The issue then becomes what’s the best solution for my budget. That’s much harder to determine. Here standards, reputation and also to a degree “ word of mouth ) play a part.

[pcmm]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

There’s an easier way: take a piece of scrap plywood and cut a hole of the size you want. Now hold that piece over the spot where the smaller hole is and use it as a guide for the holesaw. Use double sided carpet tape to secure it, just like a router template. You can use it again and again

You can do the same thing with 2 hole saws. Install the correct size hole saw on your mandrel and then just thread on a holesaw that is the same size as the original hole. !'ve been able to do this may times and used this to cut out a defective stern tube from my boat by installing a 2-3/8" holesaw and a 2" holesaw. the 2" just fit inside the tube and the 2-3/8" was the same as the outer diameter of the tube and removed the tube neatly. Works the same on thruhulls.