Seacock handle turns freely but valve doesn't close

[LifesBetterWhenYoureBeating]

Hi everyone,

I just came back to the boat after a month away and the handle on one of my ball valve seacocks was very stiff. After applying some extra force it turned but then felt like no resistance at all. I've now confirmed that turning the handle no longer closes it. This video shows the problematic seacock, whereas this shows a working one. You can clearly see that in the working one the bit close to the body (is that a nut or what?) turns together with the handle, but that doesn't happen with the problematic one. Is this something that I can repair with the boat in the water? If not, is there any way I can try to close this seacock until I get the boat out of the water?

Thanks in advance!

[capt jgw]

Video didn't post. If the nut or shaft doesn't appear to turn with the handle I'd suspect the handle itself is stripped out. I'd take the handle off and see if I could turn the shaft with a vice grips or something. But... If the valve is stuck enough to strip the handle you might not be able to turn it with anything. Is this an intake or discharge? If it's an intake without an external screen it's possible a stick or something got sucked in and is blocking the ball from turning.

[LifesBetterWhenYoureBeating]

Originally Posted by capt jgw

Video didn't post. If the nut or shaft doesn't appear to turn with the handle I'd suspect the handle itself is stripped out. I'd take the handle off and see if I could turn the shaft with a vice grips or something. But... If the valve is stuck enough to strip the handle you might not be able to turn it with anything. Is this an intake or discharge? If it's an intake without an external screen it's possible a stick or something got sucked in and is blocking the ball from turning.

It's a discharge. You should be able to see the video now. If on a mobile app, just "click" on the "this video" and "this shows" texts and you'll be taken to the videos

[capt jgw]

Got it, didn't realize that was a link. It's a little hard to tell but I think the shaft is turning with the handle, at least a little bit. I'd still unscrew the nut and remove the handle, then see if I could turn the shaft. If it still turns free without closing, then the shaft is broken inside. Not much you can do with that.

[LifesBetterWhenYoureBeating]

Originally Posted by capt jgw

Got it, didn't realize that was a link. It's a little hard to tell but I think the shaft is turning with the handle, at least a little bit. I'd still unscrew the nut and remove the handle, then see if I could turn the shaft. If it still turns free without closing, then the shaft is broken inside. Not much you can do with that.

I'm pretty sure the shaft is turning, but I'll double check by removing the handle and turning it by hand

[capt jgw]

The working one looks to be stiffer than it should be too. I'd take it out too (and any others in the boat as well) and clean and lube them. I just got done doing this in my boat, all 7 tapered plug seacocks disassembled, cleaned, and lubed.

[jzk]

Originally Posted by LifesBetterWhenYoureBeating

It's a discharge. You should be able to see the video now. If on a mobile app, just "click" on the "this video" and "this shows" texts and you'll be taken to the videos

I have had that happen twice. Need a new ball valve. You can do it in the water. Just tap a bung into the thru hull from below. Remove and replace the ball valve. Retrieve the bung.

I would have a plan to haul out if you break something.

[Montanan]

Originally Posted by jzk

I have had that happen twice. Need a new ball valve. You can do it in the water. Just tap a bung into the thru hull from below. Remove and replace the ball valve. Retrieve the bung.

I would have a plan to haul out if you break something.

As if you end up bungling the replacement task.

Be prepared for a "prompt" haul out. I never feel easy relying on a cork on the outside of the hull.

[jzk]

Originally Posted by Montanan

As if you end up bungling the replacement task.

Be prepared for a "prompt" haul out. I never feel easy relying on a cork on the outside of the hull.

No problem. If you want to pay a few thousand for a haul out to make you feel comfortable, that is your right. But these things can be done in the water with a little preparation.

One time we were launched in Chicago, but one of the ball valves was broken and shooting a stream of water. They agreed to haul us back out for $1000 and launch us in a week. I replaced the ball valve in 5 minutes in the water without even bunging the hole. It was super easy.

[donradcliffe]

I've had that happen with a 2 year old ball valve. Replaced 10 and one was defective. I'd recommend hauling and replacing.

[Bowdrie]

As mentioned up-thread, it's not a big deal to change a ball valve in the water with a little prep work/thinking thru.
Don't just start applying force to unscrew the valve without first having a grasp on the thru hull with some good sized "water pump pliers" on the exposed area between the thru hull nut and the valve body.
The last thing you need is for the thru hull to start rotating in the hull.
Have your tapered wood/rubber plug handy, when old valve comes off stick in the plug.
Now you can clean the threads of the thru hull and apply your choice of thread sealant.
Pull the plug, screw-on new valve,, don't forget to hold the thru hull again with your pliers as you tighten up the valve.

[capt jgw]

I've done such things in the water but I ran the boat aground first on a trailer boat launch ramp. The boat can flood but not sink and you have a nice concrete bottom to work from and a dock to tie up to. The trick is to find a time when the ramp isn't busy.

[capt jgw]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

As mentioned up-thread, it's not a big deal to change a ball valve in the water with a little prep work/thinking thru.
Don't just start applying force to unscrew the valve without first having a grasp on the thru hull with some good sized "water pump pliers" on the exposed area between the thru hull nut and the valve body.
The last thing you need is for the thru hull to start rotating in the hull.
Have your tapered wood/rubber plug handy, when old valve comes off stick in the plug.
Now you can clean the threads of the thru hull and apply your choice of thread sealant.
Pull the plug, screw-on new valve,, don't forget to hold the thru hull again with your pliers as you tighten up the valve.

It's hard to tell from the videos but those look to me like proper seacocks. If so there's no exposed through hull to grab with the pliers. You'd have to do it from the outside with a through hull wrench.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by capt jgw

It's hard to tell from the videos but those look to me like proper seacocks. If so there's no exposed through hull to grab with the pliers. You'd have to do it from the outside with a through hull wrench.

I agree with Bowdrie, those are ball valves on a throughull, not seacocks.
To me that calls into the question the metallurgy of the throughull and the ball valve. It's been many years since I've seen a real bronze ball valve on a boat. Until I was sure of that, I wouldn't attempt it in the water.

[deblen]

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...er-211436.html