Sealing Hose Connection

[kb79]

I spent the weekend rebuilding the head on our 1984 CS 36. Since I was doing a dirty job anyhow, I figured I'd replace the hoses to the holding tank.

I dutifully went out and spent four bucks a foot for sanitation hose, hooked everything up and now I've got a leak from the waste output on the head into the new hose.

Yes, I bought the right size, yes I used hose clamps, no I didn't score the plastic as I was disassembling it... I'm pretty sure I've done everything right here.

Since there's nothing yucky in there right now, I'm tempted to pull the cover off the joker valve, stick my finger in, take a little silicon caulk to the mating connection and call it good. On the other hand, if this starts to leak, the consequences are pretty stinky.

Think this'll work? Any other suggestions? I suppose I could get new tubing, but I just installed it all and I'd rather not (plus, I bought good stuff and this is what it's designed for... I'm not even sure what else I'd get). Also seems plausible to order a new joker valve cover on the off chance that mine is scratched or something, but I just inspected it, and it looks pretty good.

If anyone's got a few thoughts on sealing up a hose connection, I'm all ears.

[donradcliffe]

Silicone on the waste connections has worked for me, but make sure you didn't crack that plastic joker valve cover as you were wrestling the new hose on. I seriously doubt that its the connection between the hose and the head waste that is leaking unless you have the wrong size hose--it should have been a struggle to get it on.

There's not much pressure on the waste system, but if you use silicone, leave the joint open to the air for 24 hours to let it set up.

[Chief Engineer]

Does it leak at the hose or where the joker valve is.....If the bend is too sharp on the hose. that can cause a leak at the plastic joker valve housing. A good way to take the stress off the white hose is to carefully heat it while it is bent. Don't over heat it.
That works....sometimes

[MarkJ]

It might be simple..... If its Jabsco.... there is a little 'trick' to it. That bottom plate and the back plate must be on exactly evenly.

So those 4 screws that hold the thingo to the 2 screws where the joker valve is. Take them off and do the whole 6 evenly. Often because the hose pulls one way or the other it puts the outlet pip a bit skew-whif....

You might have to hold the preasure off the hose while tightening the 2 screws.





Mark

[GordMay]

A new hose installation should never require a sealant!
If it leaks now, it will leak later, even with a sealant “band-aid”. Remember, unlike human skin, a sewage hose is not self-healing. Your fix must be permanent.
Check out Mark & the Chief’s installation advice.

[kb79]

Thanks, all.

I went down after work yesterday to put some silicon on, and am realizing that the problem is definitely that the hose is slightly too large... or more likely that the fitting is too small. The discharge fitting isn't cracked or compromised, but the hose just plain fits over it too easily. It's 1.5"ID as was the old waste hose that I removed - I also confirmed this size with Groco... it's a Groco HF.

I'm going to buy a new discharge fitting and hope for the best. Otherwise, I'm stumped. Any other suggestions?

Thanks again.

[Cheechako]

Plumbing is the worst of the worst on boats, fittings dont fit, hoses dont fit... geez what an industry. If you have to live with the loose hose, then put some sealant on the fitting and in the hose when you assemble it. It shouldnt need anything, but I'm surprised how many times I've taken a hose off and found goop was used by the PO. On a head I'd be tempted to use 5200, but maybe not if plastic. If bronze I would for sure. If you do let it sit a couple days before using it.

[thefilthywhore]

before installing a hose on a fitting you should always heat it up either in boiling water or with a heat gun (carefully not to burn it). when you heat the hose it gets easily plyable (squishy) and will form more easily to the fitting. just be sure to tighten the hose clamps (use two if possible) while it is still plyable. and don't use the cheap slotted hose clamps, use the ones with the machined ridges.

never fails to work for me.

[donradcliffe]

Did the hose go on too easily over the other fittings??

The only time I used silicone on the head was when I discovered the tailpiece on the thruhull was 1 1/4 inch instead of 1 1/2. I wrapped a bunch of vinyl tape around it to build it up, smeared silicone everwhere, clamped it hard, and it lasted till I replaced the thruhull 8 years later.