Shower Hot Water Options

[Kokanee]

Bingo!


Air is like a insulator. You need full moving coolant contact on one side of the heat exchanger and full water contact on the other side. Neither should be at a high point in the hoses.


Relocate and have a nice hot shower! Be careful of an initial slug of very hot water in the first 10 seconds of your shower. After that temperature should remain steady if flow remains steady.

[Rustic Charm]

Well thank you Dockhead and Kokane,

I'm certainly curious to see if it's quite this simple. I look forward then to lowering it and seeing if it works.

[Dockhead]

Originally Posted by Rustic Charm

Well thank you Dockhead and Kokane,

I'm certainly curious to see if it's quite this simple. I look forward then to lowering it and seeing if it works.

Key thing is getting the air out of it. Air will block the circulation.

If you can get it lower than the engine's header tank, do that, and be sure to "burp" the hoses to get the air out. You might need to fill up the calorifier separately to make sure there's no air trapped in there.

Be careful that you don't have loops in the hoses where air can get trapped.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

It's also possible that you'll need a circulation pump. Not all connection points on all engines really produce the pressure differential, you need for decent circulation based on the engine's own pump, especially if the hoses are long.