Shrader Valves in Refrigeration System

[Akka]

My system was originally built for R12 refrigerant and still has the original fittings for attaching hoses, though I long ago converted to R134a. My problem is that I've got a malfunctioning Shrader valve and can't unscrew it to replace it. I recovered the gas, so I only need to unscrew the valve core. I own 5 separate tools intended for this purpose, but three of them are plastic and won't take the torque I need to unscrew the core, while two of them are the same size as the outside threads on the Shrader fittings so they don't fit inside the threads in the port. The best thing, I think, would be a tool with a screwdriver handle and a split end, wide enough to bridge the Shrader core but narrow enough to fit inside the port. Also, strong enough to remove the stuck fitting. Is there such a tool? If so, how do I specify the size I need, and where can I get it?

[model 10]

Truflate Plews makes that exact tool.

[bstreep]

Tire professionals have these.

[Scott Berg]

HVAC shops sell 'lock' style tools that permit removal and replacement of shrader valves without evacuating the systems as well as the more common tools; either should do this for you; make sure that you get a good vacuum with 134a before recharging...

[onestepcsy37]

Go to any auto parts store, tire repair section. Cost just a couple of dollars. Might even find one in a bicycle shop...

Sent from my GT-P3113 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[bstreep]

Scott makes a good point. You can also look on youtube for videos about replacing them without losing refrigerant.

Also, if you are interested, you can take the online course and test, and get EPA certified to do your own work on your boat (or for hire, 5 pounds of refrigerant or less), for $25. I did.

[botanybay]

Originally Posted by bstreep

Scott makes a good point. You can also look on youtube for videos about replacing them without losing refrigerant.

Also, if you are interested, you can take the online course and test, and get EPA certified to do your own work on your boat (or for hire, 5 pounds of refrigerant or less), for $25. I did.

Which license did you get? Which service did you go with?

[a64pilot]

I'm licensed for HVAC, I think License says high pressure or something, don't remember any refrigerant weight limit. Only time I have ever had to show it was to buy refrigerant, but 134a you can buy over the counter, why would you need a license?

[botanybay]

Originally Posted by bstreep

Scott makes a good point. You can also look on youtube for videos about replacing them without losing refrigerant.

Also, if you are interested, you can take the online course and test, and get EPA certified to do your own work on your boat (or for hire, 5 pounds of refrigerant or less), for $25. I did.

I have the 608 Type 1 license for small equipment. What I am trying to determine if is there is an advantage in also having the 609 (Motor Vehicle servicing license) in addition.

It appears you can work on cars (so long as you are working on your own car or working on someone else's without any form of compensation) without a license.

I am curious if there is some benefit to having both licenses or the 608 Type 2 , Type 3, or universal. Being that I just want to work on the systems on my own boat I can't see any reason I would need anything else.

Am I missing something.

[botanybay]

Originally Posted by Akka

My system was originally built for R12 refrigerant and still has the original fittings for attaching hoses, though I long ago converted to R134a. My problem is that I've got a malfunctioning Shrader valve and can't unscrew it to replace it. I recovered the gas, so I only need to unscrew the valve core. I own 5 separate tools intended for this purpose, but three of them are plastic and won't take the torque I need to unscrew the core, while two of them are the same size as the outside threads on the Shrader fittings so they don't fit inside the threads in the port. The best thing, I think, would be a tool with a screwdriver handle and a split end, wide enough to bridge the Shrader core but narrow enough to fit inside the port. Also, strong enough to remove the stuck fitting. Is there such a tool? If so, how do I specify the size I need, and where can I get it?

What kind of system is it? A rotary compressor or a hermetic compressor. If a large hermetic compressor (say 1/2 hp) I would be curious about if you have had long term success.