switchable fresh and raw water washdown

[charlesparsons]

Hi all,
My boat (Caliber 47) came with a factory installed switchable washdown. The system was completely disconnected by a previous owner for an unknown reason. I belive the system was connected as diagramed in the attached picture.

As I look to reconnect and get the system going again, I want to make sure I do it right as I suspect the PO likely had some reason for disconnecting.



Would you setup this way? Some other way? Wouldn't do this at all?



Thanks!
Charles
SV Loka

[AnsleyS]

I did this on our KK42. In Maine we winterize our boats and I added this as well as a antifreeze intake before the freshwater pump so that I can circulate antifreeze thru the fresh water system as well as the salt water system without removing hoses. I also like this for end of season fresh water wash of our anchor chains and the bilges.


Your diagram looks OK to me although the shut off and the one way valve on the fresh water system before the Y valve are redundant. Not bad but redundant.

[charlesparsons]

What kind of 3 way valve did you use?



The check valve was more for piece of mind I guess. I'm assuming the 3 way valve could allow mixing of fresh and raw water and that someone could forget to turn off the fresh valve. Maybe my assumption is wrong?


What did you use to add the flushing port?

[deblen]

The check valve may be to prevent any contamination of fresh domestic water by backflow from hose,etc.

[wrwakefield]

We have 2 wash down hoses [anchor and cockpit] plumbed similarly to your diagram.

That set-up works fine for us.

The 3 way valves should be exercised periodically [just like through-hull valves] to prevent them from seizing-up over time.

Otherwise it is an easy, versatile set-up.

I always try to finish a raw water use cycle with fresh to keep the wash down plumbing ‘rinsed’- especially the check valves…

I would reconnect it and see if you can discover why the PO disconnected things…

Cheers, Bill

[charlesparsons]

Thanks Bill. Good advice.

What kind of 3-way valve are you using?

The setup in place has a Forespar 3-way valve but I was considering replacing with a Bronze Groco unit.. not sure if its worth the hassle.

Also curious what kind of hose connects you are using? Ours has a bronze valve mounted in a forward locker with a garden hose adapter on the output. The valve is frozen. I plan to try to fix it, but if not feasible I'm considering alternatives.

[wrwakefield]

Hi Charles,

I’ll embed some answers below.

Cheers, Bill

Originally Posted by charlesparsons

Thanks Bill. Good advice.

What kind of 3-way valve are you using?

They are plastic by the previous owner. I believe they are Bosworth [based upon the handle design…]. I would consider something like this…

The setup in place has a Forespar 3-way valve but I was considering replacing with a Bronze Groco unit.. not sure if it’s worth the hassle.

If it ain’t broke…

Also curious what kind of hose connects you are using? Ours has a bronze valve mounted in a forward locker with a garden hose adapter on the output. The valve is frozen. I plan to try to fix it, but if not feasible I'm considering alternatives.

Our anchor locker is a SS ball valve with male hose threads on the output side. The ball valve is still good after ~20+ years- but I do rinse with fresh after running saltwater through the system.

The cockpit wash down was installed in Trinidad where not much was available for parts. Therefore the PO used a female compressed air quick disconnect fitting. There is a SS ball valve- which is default off [as is the raw water pump]- easily accessible in the cabin below the pedestal. That quick disconnect is still leak free and fully operational after 20+ years- including being subjected to our below freezing temps in winter.

If the ball valves ever fail, I will replace with PVC equivalents. They hold up well to salt water.

Also, I use hose spray nozzles made for use with salt water [no metals] They also seem to hold up very well.

[charlesparsons]

Great info. Thanks for sharing!