TruDesign fittings

[sailingharry]

Originally Posted by jcapo

Use one of these on the NPS threads and some Rectorseal. Solves the positioning problem.

https://gemlux.com/collections/compo...-1-5-nps-black

That would be used basically as a lock nut, pressing up against the tailpiece? That's a pretty slick solution.


This item is an example of the confusion that Gemlux has brought to the table. By rebranding Trudesign (and other suppliers) to Gemlux, you no longer know what you are getting. Trudesign does make a similar item, so there's a good chance this is genuine.

[shimari]

The rebranding is new. I bought a 1.5" trudesign ball valve from Gemlux in Jan '23. It is labeled as Trudesign.

[Ryban]

I think Gemlux has a deal with TruDesign to get to put their branding on it, but they still say "by Trudesign" and I believe they are all manufactured by TruDesign.

Also, Gemlux has the 3/4" valves back in stock as of yesterday -- I just ordered a few.

[sailingharry]

Originally Posted by Ryban

I think Gemlux has a deal with TruDesign to get to put their branding on it, but they still say "by Trudesign" and I believe they are all manufactured by TruDesign.

Also, Gemlux has the 3/4" valves back in stock as of yesterday -- I just ordered a few.

The real Trudesign seems to say it. Some of the other parts Gemlux sells that are glass reinforced nylon are parts that Trudesign doesn't make. While I suspect that the material is equally good, I get nervous when they sell NPT fittings to put on NPS thru hulls....


Thanks on the update on 3/4. That's what's holding up my placing the order.

[260224]

Hello,

I am Brian Ferrell with GEMLUX-- the US and Caribbean distributor for TruDesign products. This thread came across my inbox and I wanted to provide some insight on some of the questions posted above and see how we can further assist.

GEMLUX is the US and Caribbean distributor for TruDesign products and we strongly believe that this is the future of all marine plumbing systems.

In regards to NPT and NPS thread systems -- It is strongly advised to NEVER mix thread types. NPS -> NPS and NPT -> NPT is the only CORRECT way to plumb. GEMLUX supplies fittings in both thread types because we also manufacture NPT thru hulls in Stainless Steel, as this has been the industry standard for a long time. However, ALL TruDesign products are NPS or BSP (British Standard Pipe, commonly used in the European markets) We have began to manufacture stainless steel, NPS threaded thru hulls to pair with all of the TruDesign offerings.

TruDesign has a very thorough set of data sheets for all of their products, which can be found here: https://www.trudesign.nz/marine/questions These sheets will explain thread sealing, installation, recommended sealants for different applications and much much more.

And last-- on our website we have a section dedicated to all TruDesign components to help keep your NPS and NPT separated (https://gemlux.com/collections/trude...omposite-parts) If you have any doubt, give us a call.

We believe that the TruDesign product is the future of marine plumbing and you will notice some of the leading boat manufacturers in the industry have began making that transition.

We are here to help with any questions, concerns, comments you may have. If you have any questions at all in regards to the plumbing system in your boat, we're here to help. We have a very knowledgeable staff that can answer just about any question you have. Feel free to give us a call at 904-264-0173 or an email at sales@gemlux.com.

Best Regards,

Brian

[CharmCityBoater]

During my refit I decided to change out all thru-hulls. I did a lot of research on all options. Ended up choosing TruDesign simply because they are superior in pretty much every catagory for a fiberglass boat. I also used epoxy to bed the mushroom fittings. They become part of the hull this way. Yes, it is perm and you will need to cut them out with a saw when you need to replace them, however, I had to do that anyways with all the thru-hulls I replaced. I also used the load bearing collars on all thru-hulls.

Part of my decision making was a trip to Jacksonville to visit Gemlux. They do not have a showroom but Brian was nice enough to come talk to me and I really appreciated their level of support. That was the icing on the cake. I would not go back to Bronze with a few exceptions... I have two very large thru-hulls for some deck drains. They are 2-1/2" and join to a 2-3/4" hose. My only option for this was Groco. So, 2 of my 9 thu-hulls are bronze. All others TruDesign.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by CharmCityBoater

During my refit I decided to change out all thru-hulls. I did a lot of research on all options. Ended up choosing TruDesign simply because they are superior in pretty much every catagory for a fiberglass boat. I also used epoxy to bed the mushroom fittings. They become part of the hull this way. Yes, it is perm and you will need to cut them out with a saw when you need to replace them, however, I had to do that anyways with all the thru-hulls I replaced. I also used the load bearing collars on all thru-hulls.

Part of my decision making was a trip to Jacksonville to visit Gemlux. They do not have a showroom but Brian was nice enough to come talk to me and I really appreciated their level of support. That was the icing on the cake. I would not go back to Bronze with a few exceptions... I have two very large thru-hulls for some deck drains. They are 2-1/2" and join to a 2-3/4" hose. My only option for this was Groco. So, 2 of my 9 thu-hulls are bronze. All others TruDesign.

I have nothing against good quality plastic fittings and especially not against TruDesign now that they introduced the load bearing collars, but in which way does their plastic thru hull fitting outperform a bronze Groco fitting for a fiberglass boat? I can’t list any but for the other way around I can: the bronze is stronger and it is more durable.

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

but in which way does their plastic thru hull fitting outperform a bronze Groco fitting for a fiberglass boat? I can’t list any but for the other way around I can: the bronze is stronger and it is more durable.

One less bonding wire for a American boat. Doesn't apply in Europe as we don't bond through hulls.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by Pete7

One less bonding wire for a American boat. Doesn't apply in Europe as we don't bond through hulls.

Are you sure bonding of a fitting is required in the US?

Found it, not required, see attached

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Are you sure bonding of a fitting is required in the US?

Nope just read CF for a decade and a half.

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

Found it, not required, see attached

Well, the way I read your screen shot is they are required, or am I wrong?

Pete

[CharmCityBoater]

Originally Posted by s/v Jedi

I have nothing against good quality plastic fittings and especially not against TruDesign now that they introduced the load bearing collars, but in which way does their plastic thru hull fitting outperform a bronze Groco fitting for a fiberglass boat? I can’t list any but for the other way around I can: the bronze is stronger and it is more durable.

No bonding, no chance of corrosion, easier to install and lower cost. Maybe my wording is a bit off. I should say they are equivalent in most ways and superior in a few. The strength issue comes into play when there is a chance of a large load being placed on the inside of the fitting either by a failed sole board and human weight being placed on it, a failure of a heavy component falling on it or some other type of significant force. In those cases bronze has an advantage. With that said the location of my thru-hulls really precludes any of that occurring.

I could argue the load bearing collars help out in that area but I still think the Broze is stronger. But is it really needed? I can tell you this... Once I have it installed with the collar the thing is rock solid. That is subjective but it sure feels substantial.

Phil

[shimari]

Originally Posted by Pete7

Nope just read CF for a decade and a half.



Well, the way I read your screen shot is they are required, or am I wrong?

Pete

I would read "consideration should be given" as encouraged, but not required.

Our Southerly built by Discovery has bonded thru-hulls.

[CharmCityBoater]

One other thought on strength... I guess you could argue that if you hit rocks / corral head and the boat slides against it there is a chance it could "snag" on a thru-hull mushroom fitting. In that case maybe plastic would fail where Bronze would stay in tact? With that said I have never seen any evidence this actually occurs in the real world. Even if it does, how well does the plastic stand up to it?

Just my $0.02. Any other strength cases anyone can think of?

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by shimari

I would read "consideration should be given" as encouraged, but not required.

Fair point

Originally Posted by CharmCityBoater

Any other strength cases anyone can think of?

Surface ice on say the ICW? 3 of our through hulls are just above the at rest waterline.

Pete

[stormalong]

Just as a reference on Marelon through hull fitting strength. When I have replaced seacocks I have also replaced the thru hulls. Partly because the way I mount my seacocks needs more thread length than the old ones had sticking out and partly due to their age. Also mine are flush - the hull was laid up with recesses for them. No mushroom head sticking out that might be damaged by hitting a floating object. Out of thirteen seacocks a little more than half have been replaced. The rest are from 1985, original to the boat.

These old through hulls are still plenty strong. I have beat them with a hammer and they will not crack.

I have one more that I intend to replace on the next haul out, not sure if that is this year or next. The boat is now 38 years old. If I remember I will post an update.