Two Hoses to One Seacock

[sv.Crake]

Hi all,

I've got a 1" bronze seacock that I want to run sink drains from both my galley and head to. It's convienly located between the two areas so the hose runs are fairly easy.

Now, what is the approved/best way to attached two hoses to the same seacock?

Should I use a bronze hex pipe nipple - to - bronze tee - to- bronze pipe to hose adapters? (seems like a bunch of thread to seal)

or

Should i go from the seacock straight to a 1" bronze pipe to hose adapter then attach heater hose and Tee into the hose? If I do this what is the best material for a Tee with hose barbs?


Thanks!

[sailvayu]

I would use the pipe T. Make sure you have bronze not brass and seal the treads with silicone, get them good and tight and you will never have leaks. I never liked hose T's too many connections with hose clamps and those tend to leak, makes for a bit of a sloppy installation as well.

[delmarrey]

Just a few observations/comments;

1" is not very big for a kitchen sink drain. 1-1/4" is the same as the sinks, or should be.

Avoid using any 90º fittings. Items like to get stuck in them. 45º is better. Make it so you can run a snake thru.

Try to keep as many connections as you can above the waterline.

Try to avoid any dips or loops. They will hold dirt and start a fungus. I like clear/transparent lines to see where a clog may be.

Sea life loves to grow up into drain thruhulls so set it up so it is EZ to clean, which brings up the elbows again. Keep them above the water line if possible and as straight up/down as possible. Horizontal lines will hold junk.

If you have any guests aboard, be sure to brief them on plumbing procedures. They'll be your worst enemy.

BTW if you have to use a "T" try to set it up this way, like a "Y".

.

[onestepcsy37]

i did a similar installation. i have a 3/4" bronze thru hull forward which i used for both the sink drain in the head and the intake for the raritan phII head. i just put a high quality nylon T fitting at the thru hull and then ran 3/4" hose to each unit. on the raritan side i put a small inline filter to keep stuff from being sucked up into the head pump. i've had no problems for five years now and some good actually came out of this -

when i want to lubricate the head or just run fresh water through it i close the thru hull, fill the sink with fresh water and/or vinegar and/or head lube and then pump the head. since the thru hull is closed it uses whatever i put in the sink....

[jrd22]

If the thru hull is below the waterline you shouldn't use radiator hose, use USCG approved hose for below waterline and double hose clamps. As others have advised, bronze pipe to hose adapter would be my choice.

[S/V Alchemy]

What Jrd22 said. BTW, the 40 foot Brewer is one of my favourite designs.

I would also consider a T-off one sink to the engine coolant intake; one of the best ways I've found to flush/winterize an engine is to fill the sink with coolant, close off the seacock, open the drain and start the engine. When the stuff comes out the exhaust, you're golden.

I have a 33 footer on Lake Ontario. My head intake is also my head sink drain. There's a T just below the waterline and a nylon shut off below that. The shut off is always off in the drain side and is off unless the head is being used on the seacock side.

Winterizing the head also consists of shutting off the seacock side, filling the sink with plumbers' anti-freeze, and pumping until the bowl is filled and then pumping that into the holding tank, already pumped out.

No problems, cracks or failures in a dozen years this way.

[hellosailor]

Crake, I'm hoping this is galley and head BOTH SINK drains? So is is just sink waste, not sanitary, not intake-vs-out mixing.

I think there are valid issues with whatever you do but I'd vote for low cost and simplicity. Put a Marelon or other high quality plastic "T" on the seacock, run both drain lines into that. No matter what you do it can either clog or break or get bulky, this would seem to be the least inelegant solution. And since the greatest danger in stacking things on seacocks is that someone or something will break off the extra bits...maybe install some stainless rails over the fitting, or a plywood panel, to make sure no one can step on it or break it off through simple contact. Not blocking access, just providing a little more protection for it.

[David M]

For grey water two hoses to one discharge is fine. You definitely do not want to do this with a sanitation hose. Even if you install a check valve...which can and do fail. This is because gas or raw sewage could back up into the other hose. Backed up gray water, although inconvenient, is not a big deal nor a really unhealthy situation. In an ideal situation every inlet and outlet hose has its own thru-hull fitting.

Just for others sake, you never want two inlet hoses to attach to one hull inlet. The reason is you don't want one side to ever draw a vacuum or partial vacuum on the other side. This might cause you to draw air or to lose the other sides prime.

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by David M

Just for others sake, you never want two inlet hoses to attach to one hull inlet. The reason is you don't want one side to ever draw a vacuum or partial vacuum on the other side. This might cause you to draw air or to lose the other sides prime.

In that regard, wash down pumps, pressure pumps, toilet pumps, foot pumps and a bunch of others act as a check valve and can be incorporated into the ends of spliced inlets.
I have only two inlets to supply the whole boat (motor, sink, head, wash down pump & watermaker) one forward and one aft.

[S/V Alchemy]

I have a stand pipe with four tee-offs. Same idea. Fewer holes=less worry.

[stillbuilding]

I have two 2" inlets (one on each side of keel) which are interconnected. One 3" outlet for whole boat.