Water heater plumbing

[JetPowers]

Hi all. I'm new to the boat's systems and here and will start with thank you/apologies for requesting help rather than contributing.

In learning to winterize, I want to drain the water heater. I'm assuming that is accompanied somehow by redirecting the cold in -> hot out. I've ordered a bypass kit but looking at my present set-up I'm wondering if it's already set-up for something given the 2 separate Tee fittings on the inlet. I'll let a photo speak for me and hoping folks will decipher and explain. I realize the engine heating component is not being used.
I'll also include another photo or 2 of other parts of the system (a Jabsco pump and associated hoses along with a white pump or reservoir mounted behind the bulkhead). Not asking to replace proper "schooling" just some basic leads into what I'm looking at would be appreciated that I will research or return with questions. I am especially curious of the purpose of the hanging coiled hose - Seems meant for occasional use and wonder if for winterizing.
For now anyway, just looking to get safely protected from NE winter. Thank you.

[CaptTom]

Is the hanging hose connected to anything? It's kind of in the way in the photos. It looks like one end snakes off to the left underneath something in the 2nd picture.

Sticking with the water heater, I see a plug at the bottom (cold in) fitting. You'd remove that and open the temperature/pressure relief valve at the top to drain the tank. But that wouldn't winterize the hoses to and from it.

The bypass kit you bought would go between the top and bottom hoses. Usually there's a "T" with a valve, and another "T" with a backflow preventer. Throw the valve and you've taken the heater out of the circuit. Then you can drain it as above, and run "pink stuff" antifreeze through the rest of the potable water system.

Without that bypass kit, you could always just remove the two hoses and join them together with a coupler fitting. Either way, the goal is not to have to fill the entire water heater with antifreeze. Just emptying it and leaving the bottom valve open will be enough. The thin layer of water left in the tank will freeze, but not expand outward enough to burst anything.

While we're on the subject, at the potable water tank you should look to see if you can remove the outlet hose at the bottom of that. Then you can stick the hose in a bottle of antifreeze and let your pump suck it out of there, instead of the tank. Again, no need to fill the tank with antifreeze. Easier to flush out the system come spring, too.

[JetPowers]

Glad then I ordered the bypass kit - coming today. I have the same question regarding the coiled hose origin. The bilge is so tight and with hoses and fuel lines that I've been very hesitant dropping my 200lbs in and doing damage to engine parts or even the hull-it's a very solid layup (Fisher Motorsailor) but I still worry about 200lbs transferring thru one or two of my feet. I will try again today to see inside or just cut the ziptie and get in there. I was hoping maybe the general look of it might ring a bell.
I will look for the intake hose but have to locate the potable tank first..and holding tank for the matter. I've spent 10 days on crash course kindergarten to college engine system, so only now focusing on the plumbing. Thank you.

[JetPowers]

Update: First, Thank you.
I've figured out most of it. The black Jabsco being the water pump and the white fixture being a discharge pump (?) and possibly macerator, though surveyor said there is none - there is a macerator circuit breaker I might switch on today but afraid I might dump something ugly overboard.
The coiled hose in the top right photo has I think a flare fitting and leads aft into the netherlands I haven't yet traced. I am thinking it is the LPG line but why coiled up? See new photo.
Anyway I've drained exactly 6 gal water from heat tank and hope to connect bypass today. The Jabsco ran funny...intermittent pumping then continuous as water pressure dissipated. I'm hoping that's normal and continuous near the end means not enough pressure in the tank. I ran the pump only 5 minutes at a time or less afraid of overheating it.
I'm guessing the grey water leads to a well under the bilge pump then gets bilged out rather than the water going directly overboard.

[CaptTom]

Thanks for the update.

Not sure what the white fixture is. I've never seen a white macerator, but that doesn't prove they don't exist. Easy enough to tell, it would have a fairly direct connection to the holding tank.

Lots of boats have hoses and wires abandoned in place. That could be what the black coiled hose is. Leave it until you can find the other end. Could be something you want to reconnect some day.

Potable water pumps can start sounding funny when they start sucking air. I've run them for long periods to empty a tank. I always worry about overheating but I've never felt one get noticeably hot.

Double-check your grey water setup. I don't like the idea of discharging to the bilges. You can get some awful stink, not to mention crud that plugs up the bilge pumps when you need them the most. I've seen it done, but if that's what you have you'll probably want to change that.

[Bowdrie]

Originally Posted by CaptTom

Lots of boats have hoses and wires abandoned in place.

Haha, that's actually kind of funny.
Over the years of doing boat work I've found that some of the nightmares of wiring and plumbing consist of wires and hoses that only have one end.

[JetPowers]

Sorry so long to get back..I couldn't find my post. i still think the coiled black hose is to the LPG though in my prioritization of learning and winterizing it'll likely wait till springtime. I still do not know the function of that white geometric shaped pump - there's no switch that gets it running - someone mentioned maybe another bilge and it does have a hose going down adjoining the obvious bilge and where I still think the grey water goes. And on that subject, I opened my garboard drain as a final winterizing step and to my shock I had about 30 minutes of drainage that had/has me still wondering where it all came from...and man was it stinky sort of a cross between blackwater and oil or diesel. So maybe it 'is' grey water that I'd run out of the tank for winterizing having mixed with old bilge spill. But then again, only a few days to have that stench? It wasn't black water..it had some light pink tinged clear water, like bilge remnant - it must sit very deeply in the long keel - cannot see it looking into the bilge.
I do have a macerator, though surveyor reported none. I flip the 12V panel's macerator circuit breaker and the Type 51 churns away, though I see no pump.
If I ever figure out that coiled black hose and the white pump I'll report back. Meanwhile thank you very much for your insight. Maybe the worst thing I've ever done was to buy a boat..and the best being joining this website ��

[CaptTom]

Thanks for keeping us posted.

That seems like a lot of bilge water to drain. It's also possible that the drain got plugged with small debris and that limited the flow. I'll usually poke a screwdriver or something in there to free up the opening when draining a boat. Anyway, you've learned a good lesson: Do everything in your power to keep stuff out of the bilges. Not only will it stink, but every loose bit of anything (clipped-off ends of wire ties, for example) will find their way to the bilge pumps and plug them up when you need them the most.

I'm leaning toward that white thing being an overboard discharge piston pump. I've never seen one; everyone around here uses impeller-type macerators. But I know they exist, and I'd imagine that's about what they'd look like. If you can't find the macerator, and can't find what the white thing does, maybe they're one and the same.

Another possibility is what I'd call a shower sump. Grey water goes into it, and it has a pump which automatically kicks on when there's enough water. It could also have an overflow hose to the bilge in case the pump fails.

[JetPowers]

I was unhappy at first for the presence of the garboard drain (one more thing to fall out and sink me), but now see the necessity.

The macerator sound is in the head...at the head of the boat, while the white pump is much more aft behind the wheelhouse so the maceration sound is separate. Thing is, I've still to 'really' investigate this one to have the perspective. I'd been leaning/hoping for it to be a discharge but can't get it to kick on. So maybe automatic for the shower then? I've been assuming is was a gravity system and in fact thinking the entire sink drainage system is gravity. Nothing kicked it on even while draining the potable tank of ~20g gal. with the Jabsco pump. Or...maybe it has and runs silent (tho I don't think).
'Nother thought - it's wiring is non-ABYC wire nuts so I can disconnect it easily and try to see what 'doesn't' run. I want anyway to re-do the potable water antifreeze a bit as my cold-hot hose heater bypass connection has leaked quite a bit of pink. That could be what the garboard drain let out.

And now it concerns me...might the white mystery pump crack during winter if I've no antifreeze run through?
Well, your responses are helpful but I also do not want to hog your time. I'll keep posted as I learn or am in dire straights. Thank you.

[CaptTom]

I love a good boat mystery!

OK, macerator/waste discharge pump is out.

Grey water "shower sump" is still a possibility. If it failed (and why wouldn't it - the installer used wire nuts!) and there's an overflow hose, then that explains your stanky bilge and why all that water was in there. And, yes, it'll freeze if it's got water in it. You can just pop off that hose coming out the bottom and solve that issue.

Finally, yes, the garboard drain plug (bung) is a good idea. You want to get all the water out which could freeze, especially if it's confined in a narrow place.

[ranger58sb]

Long shot: the black coiled hose could conceivably be for an engine oil pump-out/pump-in service (Reverso, Oil-X-ChangR, etc.). If so, the pump system could service propulsion engine oil, gear oil, genset oil.

??

A shower sump would likely have a float switch and a bilge pump inside; you might check if you can see something like that in the white box. Corrugated hose for discharge from a system like that might be semi-normal. Could be automatic when any kind of (usually) DC power is ON. Or could have it's own breaker on a DC panel. If either float switch or pump fails, the sump box gets full, overflows... and what remains inside can freeze, crack the outer case...

-Chris

[Bowdrie]

That big white device is most likely a real SeaLand/Dometic waste pump, generally used to empty holding tanks.
Quite expensive, but a top-of-the-line piece of kit.
https://marinesan.com/t-pump-discharge/

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by Bowdrie

That big white device is most likely a real SeaLand/Dometic waste pump, generally used to empty holding tanks.
Quite expensive, but a top-of-the-line piece of kit.
https://marinesan.com/t-pump-discharge/

Hah! Good call.

-Chris

[JetPowers]

Re: the black hose...the hidden end goes aft to the netherlands and the visible end seems to have a flare fitting That's why I'm leaning toward my propane locker. But I've yet to prioritize investigating.

Re:, the mystery pump, agreed my first thought was a waste discharge but I'm unable to find a switch for it - either local to the mounting, on my some 12V panel or even at the holding tank. New thought, place 12V directly on the wiring and see what comes up (pun intended). And, I've yet to prioritize investigation though on the short list.

I'm at closing on my house (yes...lose the house buy the boat ) and final cleanup is daunting. But I'll get back to it shortly I hope before the first Nov frosty night.

Thanks all.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by JetPowers

Re: the black hose...the hidden end goes aft to the netherlands and the visible end seems to have a flare fitting That's why I'm leaning toward my propane locker. But I've yet to prioritize investigating.

Re:, the mystery pump, agreed my first thought was a waste discharge but I'm unable to find a switch for it - either local to the mounting, on my some 12V panel or even at the holding tank. New thought, place 12V directly on the wiring and see what comes up (pun intended). And, I've yet to prioritize investigation though on the short list.

I mentioned the oil service pump idea only 'cause our is a) black, and b) has flare fittings.

Bowdrie's pump ID actually solved an issue for me. I didn't recognize yours, likely a matter of scale in my mind... but once he fingered it I could tell it's the same one we have. Only ours is missing the top cover over the piston... maybe another reason I couldn't ID yours. Anyway, now that I know what it is... I ordered a replacement top cover for ours, too.

-Chris