Water line basic question?

[LBirdie87]

So I’m looking into slowly redoing my plumbing, (slowly because I don’t know what the heck I’m doing and I’m gathering info, total beginner) and I want to replace my discharge hose with new and I notice there’s no in line non return valve (which may be why I’m getting dirty water in the flush water and the bowl isn’t emptying) and there’s no vented loop…which as I understand is only for toilets below water line. Upon further investigation I’m seeing my toilet may be a bit below water line but how do I know for sure? It’s a 1993 Silverton 31’. Hoses look super old, toilet appears pretty new.

[deblen]

Suggest you start with this book.
https://www.amazon.com/New-Get-Rid-B...s%2C512&sr=8-1


https://www.nanaimoboatyard.ca/wp-co...right-2018.pdf


https://marinehowto.com/

[LBirdie87]

I bought the book already thanks. Pulled it back out and doing another read through, still left with questions currently. Also, I’m wondering in the old Silverton manual, there’s a diagram with the plumbing setup, and there’s no mention of a y valve, an inline non return valve…a vented loop. Curious why that is.

[CaptTom]

Perhaps Peggy will stop by and give a good answer. Meanwhile, I've never seen a one-way valve in the toilet waste discharge line. I don't think I'd want one. Would be a mess to replace, and I can't imagine it wouldn't get stuck open with waste material and/or calcification anyway.

Check your tank vent. If it's plugged and venting slowly, emptying the toilet may be pressurizing it slightly, forcing the waste water back into the bowl.

Finally, there's no need for a "Y" valve. You can have the waste always directed to the holding tank. From there you can have a pump-out or macerator discharge.

My last boat had a nice setup. The holding tank discharge outlet had a PVC pipe up along the outside of the tank to a "T." The macerator sat on top of the tank connected to one leg of the T. Didn't have to empty the tank to change the macerator. The other let went up to the pump-out fitting.

[LBirdie87]

I keep hearing tank vent, every time. Currently my hose for the tank vent iis not connected. I took it apart to flush water through the line. So the fitting is completely open, no hose just exposed to the air in the bilge (very smooth water here on the river so it’s not sloshing around much). So wouldn’t that defeat the tank vent line theory? Not being smart, really I’m wondering…If my toilet is still doing the same thing with the hose on the tank vent fitting disconnected? Meaning it’s getting plenty of air, not ideal conditions but it isn’t stopped up. I hope this makes sense.

[SailingHarmonie]

Without knowing the actual brand of toilet you have it is a bit hard to be specific.

But every toilet system DOES have a non-return valve, it is just part of the toilet itself. It is usually called the "joker valve" or a "duckbill valve." If you are getting backflow into the toilet 90 times out of 100 that is the problem. Change it. You should find directions on what and how in the references mentioned above.

Joker valves are made of rubber, and they do age with time, and use. On our full time live aboard boat I change them once a year, and have always changed them before they failed.

[capt jgw]

I'd bet on the joker valve too. It's usually in the fitting where the discharge hose attaches to the toilet. Take the fitting off, usually just two screws, and the valve will be inside it. You'll probably find it doesn't close any more. The valves are pretty universal, on my cheap Jabsco head I used Raritan jokers. Better quality, sealed better, and lasted longer.

[LBirdie87]

I’ve changed the duckbill valve already. And it’s a Jabsco 37010.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by SailingHarmonie

Without knowing the actual brand of toilet you have it is a bit hard to be specific.

But every toilet system DOES have a non-return valve, it is just part of the toilet itself. It is usually called the "joker valve" or a "duckbill valve." If you are getting backflow into the toilet 90 times out of 100 that is the problem. Change it. You should find directions on what and how in the references mentioned above.

Joker valves are made of rubber, and they do age with time, and use. On our full time live aboard boat I change them once a year, and have always changed them before they failed.

Also full time on board. Our joker valve is now 9 years old. Every year or so I take it out, soak it in vinegar overnight, clean it up, reinstall.

[LBirdie87]

Here’s a picture of the valve it was suggested I add to the new discharge hose (saniflex) I intend to add running from toilet to holding tank.

[CaptTom]

Yup, you ruled out the vent. I know with Jabsco joker valves, re-installing them can be tricky. Stiff hoses and hard-to-reach places can make it hard to re-connect everything. And if the joker valve is anything but perfectly seated while the parts are being tightened, it can be distorted.

[deblen]

Is this the manual for your boat that you referred to?
page 39

https://www.silvertonclub.com/wp-con...2/19861999.pdf


Your term "vent hose"-do you mean "anti syphon loop?


see toilet diagram in Nanaimo link.page 34 https://www.nanaimoboatyard.ca/wp-co...right-2018.pdf

[LBirdie87]

Yes that’s the manual. And when I say vent hose I mean the vent at the top of the holding tank. I totally removed hose from tank fitting so it could get adequate air to determine if that was my toilet issue. And I’ve since ruled it out because I still have the same problem. I replaced duckbill valve, it seemed like it helped the head get a little better flush but still…backflow into the toilet and slow drain. A guy over here suggested I add this Jabsco inline non return valve when I put in the new discharge hose. There’s currently no vented loop at all anywhere in the system. I keep meaning to draw it out and post with pics but then another issue…

[deblen]

Originally Posted by LBirdie87

So I’m looking into slowly redoing my plumbing, (slowly because I don’t know what the heck I’m doing and I’m gathering info, total beginner) and I want to replace my discharge hose with new and I notice there’s no in line non return valve (which may be why I’m getting dirty water in the flush water and the bowl isn’t emptying) and there’s no vented loop…which as I understand is only for toilets below water line. Upon further investigation I’m seeing my toilet may be a bit below water line but how do I know for sure? It’s a 1993 Silverton 31’. Hoses look super old, toilet appears pretty new.

So this is your current factory setup,per page 39 of Silverton manual?

[deblen]

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