Y-Valve Orientation

[Bassman3]

Recently bought a boat that is set up for holding tank or overboard discharge of one toilet. The Y-Valve is currently oriented as shown in the photo. The flow from the toilet is from the hose to the bottom-left. In my experience, usually the long handle would point to the direction of flow. In this instance, that would be overboard but the through hull on that end is firmly closed and probably never been opened. Does anyone have experience with this particular valve? The toilet works but I get back flow. I just changed the duckbill and in the process discovered this setup and wonder if the valve is set wrong but the flow is still being forced through to the holding tank somehow.

[peghall]

The handle on the y-valve should line up in the direction you want the flush to flow. Yours looks like it's aimed half way between the two hoses. Check the hoses to see which goes to the tank and which goes to the the thru-hull and then try moving the handle toward one hose or the other, flush the toilet and see where it goes. If it's aimed toward a closed thru-hull, the flush will back up. If it backs up when aimed toward the tank, most likely the tank vent is blocked. It's also possible that sea water mineral buildup may be preventing the y-valve handle from turning.


--Peggie

[GordMay]

That must be an old Y-valve. I'd agree, that the handle (almost always?) points in the direction of flow.



What I see, on the web, is this:

[Bassman3]

I figured it out. The problem was that I could not get my head positioned to see the markings on the valve indicating flow. I took more photos and finally could visualize the flow markings. The handle is set to divert flow to the holding tank as desired. Thanks for the advice. It gave me the courage to try the handle in both positions. Water came back into the toilet in the wrong orientation. I was afraid to blow something up!
Hopefully the back flow was just the failing joker valve.

[Kelkara]

I'm going to suggest the opposite ...
lots of images on the web of similar looking valves:

It looks like one branch is labled "flow" and the other two are labled "open". With the handle in place it will block one of the words, only one of the "open" words will be visible ... I'm going to guess that the open pathway is from "flow" to "open" ... in which case yours is oriented correctly.

But if the boat is new to you and you're already messing about with sewage lines replacing the joker valve ... open this one up too, give it a good clean (since as peggy said, it probably needs it anyway) and find out for sure.

[dfelsent]

Forget the valve. You look to have great hose installed. Really.

[Bassman3]

Kelkara, your observations are spot on. The valve is exactly as you describe.
And the Headhunter hose was the best I could find. Love the flexibility.
Thanks everybody for the advice!

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Bassman3

I figured it out. The problem was that I could not get my head positioned to see the markings on the valve indicating flow. I took more photos and finally could visualize the flow markings. The handle is set to divert flow to the holding tank as desired. Thanks for the advice. It gave me the courage to try the handle in both positions. Water came back into the toilet in the wrong orientation. I was afraid to blow something up!
Hopefully the back flow was just the failing joker valve.

Hi, if water came back in to the toilet then I am guessing that you don't have a vented loop mounted 6 inches or so above the waterline. They prevent that from happening.

[Bassman3]

OK, just getting back to this.....
The valve issue is resolved but this all started because I was getting macerated solids (liquids I presume too) back into the bowl after a flush. Sometimes long after. I checked the vented loop line and it was clear with no resistance at all. I checked and blew out the holding tank vent line, Again, no resistance or fluid trapped. I changed the joker valve even though the previous one looked OK.
Now I still get stuff flowing back into the bowl and also get some bubbles burping up through the water even long after a flush.
I started using the Noflex Digestor recommended by Peggy Hall about 5 days ago. Could that be a source of the bubbles?
But the backflow problem started before I began the digestor treatment every other day.
I feel like I've done everything according to the Raritan manual and Peggy's book about this problem. Toilet is a Raritan Atlantes A5.
Any other ideas gang?

[peghall]

Only one possibility left: 1. a sea water mineral buildup in your toilet discharge line that's serious enough to restrict the flow....I've seen it reduce the diameter of a 1.5" hose to <.5". It's more of a problem in warm waters than in cold...and you're in FL where the waters are warm.

No-Flex will dissolve sludge, but it's not a de-scaler. There's a product called Sew Clean Sew Clean that is, but it's considerably more expensive than muriatic acid, which is a available from any big box or hardware store. Flush a 12-15% solution through to the tank...wait 45-60 minutes, then follow with a couple of gallons of clean water. Repeat if necessary. READ AND FOLLOW ALL DIRECTIONS FOR SAFE HANDLING MURIATIC ACID!!!

Once you get the hose cleaned out, a cupful--2 at most--of undiluted distilled white vinegar flushed all the way through the system once a week will prevent--but won't cure--sea water mineral buildup in hoses. Follow the vinegar with clean water after 45 minutes...NEVER leave it sitting in the bowl. Soft rubber--i.e. joker valves--left to sit and soak in vinegar will swell and distort.

There is one more thing worth checking: low voltage to a toilet is the most common cause of sluggish discharge. While it doesn't sound from your description that this is your problem (or one of your problems), you have nothing to lose by checking it. Put a volt meter on the connection WHILE FLUSHING...if it's getting less than the full 12v, that could be at least part of your problem.

If none of the above solves the problem, it's time to talk to Raritan. The A5 is an obsolete version of the Atlantes that may be old enough to have an age-related quirk that a relatively inexpensive part might fix. 800-352-5630 Talk to Mac McCoy...he's been with Raritan long enough to know the A5...he's my go-to guy. His extension is 306.

--Peggie