Adding Internal Halyards

[hpeer]

have two spare sheaves already, but don't have the exit plates.

Here are some pics. Sorry I don't have a good pic of the lower mast.

My question is does anyone have good instructions for installing exit plates? I have heard that you should stagger them but I would like to get some better guidelines before having at my mast with a saw and drill. Past experience suggests I can't be too careful with power tools.

I don't know the manufacture of the mast.

On a side note, any idea of how the top sheaves are mounted? I didn't see any pins and the top of the mast appears to be welded. The sheaves spun OK.

I should have spent more time looking around while I was up there but....well, it wasn't the most relaxing experience.

[Unicorn Dreams]

Are you going from external to internal halyards.

If so, I believe you will have to install bigger sheaves since internals usually go over one sheave instead of two like externals.

[hpeer]

She has three sheaves on the front of the mast.

The one you can see is starboard.
Below that and to the right, under the mast head for the wire, is the active sheave to the genoa.
Then there is a third sheave on the port side, also unused.

Apparently the mast was built to take up to three halyards but the exit plates were never cut.

So I am adding SPARE halyards (because I can) on previously unused sheaves that lead to the inside of the mast.

FWIW there are also fittings where external halyard sheaves could be attached (up to 4.)

[Unicorn Dreams]

My boat has 3 on the front and 3 on the back side so the halyards go across the mast so thet don't make hard turns.
The 3rd sheave is usually for spinnakers or a spare in case a halyard breaks.

[hpeer]

No one with any advice on where to place the exit plates?

Could some of you guys post pics of your masts showing multiple exit plates?

That would be a help. I'm at a small marina without a lot of other boats around to ogle.

[skipmac]

Am doing the same with my mast, going from two external halyards to four internal (not counting the spinnaker and staysail halyards that are on external blocks).

Happened to find a sister ship that had done the same a few years ago and after many bluewater miles was very happy with the change and had found no problems.

In general, the positioning of of the exit plates does not seem to be critical. Just pick locations on the mast that are clear of obstructions (don't foget to check for internal wiring and conduits) and give a good fairlead to the halyard winches or blocks, however your rig is set up. For me I also wanted to make sure they were high enough so I could reach up and get a full height grip on the halyard for initial hand over hand hoisting.

The only other concern I can think of is make sure you stagger the holes in the mast so they are not in the same vertical or horizontal planes. Putting the holes all close together could create a weak point on the mast.

DISCLAIMER: Cutting holes in your mast could result in a weak spot that could contribute to mast failure. I have not inspected your specific mast nor am I a trained rigger. Any work or modifications on your mast is at your own risk.

[Blue Stocking]

Walked the yacht club dock this morning, and the only consistency appears to be , above head height, staggered heights on mast, and the best lead to the winches or blocks.

The #2 post is likely to be your most important consideration. Good luck.

Oops-- Skipmac beat me to it.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Blue Stocking

Walked the yacht club dock this morning, and the only consistency appears to be , above head height, staggered heights on mast, and the best lead to the winches or blocks.

The #2 post is likely to be your most important consideration. Good luck.

Oops-- Skipmac beat me to it.

Fast fingers. Now if my brain could keep up with the fingers I would be invincible.

[Troubadour52993]

Here's a photo of the stbd side of my mast where the halyard exit holes are. They are staggered as previously described by several.

I recommend that you go to a rigger/rigger website and get the dimensions for the cutout hole so their inserts will fit. I determined (unlike the previous owner) that I had an Charleston Spar/Isomat section, and was able to get phenolic inserts for the exits that reduce line wear and water ingress.

At the top, there is usually a plate screwed onto the mast section on the side over the end of the axle that the sheaves ride on.

Good luck!

[skipmac]

Available from Defender in various sizes.

Exit Plate

[Jim Cate]

I did exactly this some years ago on a Yankee 30, and had no problems with the existing sheave sizes. Some considerations of matching sheave profiles to the halyard material, though. Did you plan to use wire or rope for the halyards? If wire, you should change the sheave for one designed for that usage. Otherwise, just go for it and she'll be right, mate!

Cheers,

[hpeer]

Thanks guys, this really helped.

It is a little hard to understand why a 25 year old boat that has been across the Atlantic three times does not have spare halyards even thought there are spare sheaves.

Also no clutches on the mast.

It seems like an easy thing to do but...I have been know to make simple things difficult to impossible.

Again, thanks.