Any reason I shouldn't reef foresail with Hood Seafurl 2 furler?

[cgrabens]

This foresail furler came with our boat. I've heard that some furlers are only meant to have the sail all the way out or all the way in, and that using them with the sail partially furled isn't a good idea because of their design. Would it be ok to use the Hood Seafurl 2 with the sail reefed partially? Here is the manual, but I don't see any mention either way in there.

http://www.olajedatos.com/ltp/Manual...eaFurl2636.pdf

Our old furling line is getting replaced, and I'm considering investing in some 1/4" amsteel blue that would be strong enough to take the load of a partially furled sail under load if the partial furling is a valid option.

[RTB]

My 1982 36' Hunter has the same furler. No problems reefing in 4 years and 7500 miles of cruising. We often have less than full sail out.

Ralph

[puffcard]

Had the same furler, on a Tartan 37. Worked well for many season. The sail should have a luff bolt rope or foam luff to help the shape. Most sailmakers say you should only reef 15%, put I've taken a 150% to 100% and sailed. Didn't look super great, but what is a man to do. Also don't forget to move the leads forward when reefing. When you change to Harken or similar you'll be amazed at the difference and ease of use.

[gjordan]

1/4 inch will be more than strong enough, but it might be very hard on your hands. Is the present line size comfortable to work with? You might want to spend a little more and have an easier to work system. Just a thought. ____Grant.

[Barkworth]

I have the same furler, and having just rerigged the boat I insisted in keeping it as never had any problems with it. It uses a 10mm furling line of which the core is removed so it revolves flat around the drum.

[patprice]

"It uses a 10mm furling line of which the core is removed so it revolves flat around the drum.'
Wow...you live and learn. I have never come across this. Are there any problems? Harder on the hands?

[44'cruisingcat]

Originally Posted by patprice

"It uses a 10mm furling line of which the core is removed so it revolves flat around the drum.'
Wow...you live and learn. I have never come across this. Are there any problems? Harder on the hands?

An option is to de-core only the length from the furler to the cockpit (when the sail is furled) and leave the rest of the core in. That way you never handle the de-cored part.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Originally Posted by Barkworth

I have the same furler, and having just rerigged the boat I insisted in keeping it as never had any problems with it. It uses a 10mm furling line of which the core is removed so it revolves flat around the drum.

You're much better off (safer, literally) to partially strip the cover off of a line that derives it's strength from it's core, & is as strong as your jib sheets. Like Warpspeed for example. Because if your furling line breaks on you, you're in a world of s**t. Particularly because it's more likely to happen in higher winds, where a flailing jib could break your headstay, or bring down your rig.

So a Spectra cored line is a prime candidate to do this to, as it leaves you with plenty of strength, while the part that's covered has enough size for you to grip fairly easily. The 10mm size is a good one to use. And be sure to taper the cover into the core where you strip it, & lock stitch it in place.

The size may seem overkill, but you really do need a line on the furler that's quite strong. And the topic is one that's been covered at length before, if you want to read about it in further detail.

Note that Spectra has great UV resistance, which is another of the reasons that make it a prime candidate for use here.

[RTB]

No problem with 1/4" Sta-Set for over 5 years, but the only time I put on sailing gloves is when handling the furling line. Cheap, easy, and no modifications required.

Ralph

[Rorzech]

Originally Posted by Barkworth

I have the same furler, and having just rerigged the boat I insisted in keeping it as never had any problems with it. It uses a 10mm furling line of which the core is removed so it revolves flat around the drum.

Why not just use that flat mule tape. You can get it strong 1" , over 6,000 lbs. It's made for winding up on a reel. And cheaper than rope.

[thinwater]

3/8" double braid with the core removed. Hood Seafurl 800.

• Tape won't work in jammers or winches, so the answer is no. I have seen tape spliced to rope, but it's just an unnecessary complication.
• Rope is more prone to jamming when used for reefing in strong winds. Ok in light winds.
• If chafe is a concern, get the alignment right. Yale Maxijacket is also great.
• Yes, You can sail with a lot more than 10% rolled up. This is more like 40% (60% of area). The shape was very good, I had just finished reefing the genoa (which is why I am off the wind) and I started beating (25 knots with higher gusts) just a little later. The key is furling under good control so that the wrap is tight and neat.