Best bedding compound

[john61ct]

Round here we trust MS pretty much 100%, not at all a marketeer in the negative sense.

https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/

Not saying that's the only solution for all use cases, but if butyl is called for that's the one to use.

What do you recommend for when one wants to use an alternative?

[fish53]

Originally Posted by rgleason

Also another alternative is to look at mainsail's marinehowto website where he shows how to countersink bolt holes and bed with butyl rubber for a longlasting seal. I think that would be my preference over 4200, although I've done it both ways.

I did this and it's a great way to do it, plus a roll of tape goes a long way.

[Argyle38]

Originally Posted by S/V Illusion

Butyl can be an effective substitute by anyone who can’t use traditional sealants without causing a mess, however, it isn’t widely recommended for a reason. Actually, a few reasons.

Everyone markets their version as better than other butyl compounds and the reality is that the components of butyls vary according to the manufacturers specs, many not designed for the use intended here.

Also, temperature range can affect all butyls changing the efficacy of some varieties and no one specifies useful temp range reliably. Temp variation and exposure to ambient conditions also can greatly reduce effective lifetime.

Further, what motivates some to use it is easy rather than efficacy.

If you want to do it right, use the right tools...

What are those "right tools" in your opinion? All you've said is that butyl isn't it.


I actually think butyl is more difficult to use than various "caulks". The requirements of surface cleanliness are more strict, and the bed-it stuff sticks to skin much better than pretty much everything else, so applying it is a challenge.



I use it in some situations based on Main Sails examples as well as tests done by Practical Sailor a few years ago, not because it's easy.

[roverhi]

Also don't find butyl easy to use. Takes longer to apply and oozes out for a long period after application in the tropical heat here. Have to go back a couple of times and scrape off the oozing caulk with my finger nail. Seals well in difficult conditions where other caulks have failed evidenced by the number of different types of caulks the PO's left behind and have failed. No recommended for below water line use possibly because it dissolves around petroleum products. Don't use it to seal your fuel fill.

LifeCaulk is my easy to use long term caulk. Apply it out of the tube, wipe up the excess with paper towels and mineral spirits and your done for 20-30 years or longer. Has remained pliable under hardware I've pulled up after 30 years in the tropics. Is a mild adhesive which is a characteristic that is not bad in a caulk.

[Reefmagnet]

Butyl is messy and can't be used anywhere near hydrocarbon solvents but if you want something to be sealed so it won't leak for the next 30 years or so, butyl is the top choice. In a pinch for temporary sealing I've even used blu-tak which works.

[Pegu Club]

As stated by others. Mainsail’s butyl tape.

Fair winds,

[chowdan]

Originally Posted by roverhi

Also don't find butyl easy to use. Takes longer to apply and oozes out for a long period after application in the tropical heat here. Have to go back a couple of times and scrape off the oozing caulk with my finger nail. Seals well in difficult conditions where other caulks have failed evidenced by the number of different types of caulks the PO's left behind and have failed. No recommended for below water line use possibly because it dissolves around petroleum products. Don't use it to seal your fuel fill.

LifeCaulk is my easy to use long term caulk. Apply it out of the tube, wipe up the excess with paper towels and mineral spirits and your done for 20-30 years or longer. Has remained pliable under hardware I've pulled up after 30 years in the tropics. Is a mild adhesive which is a characteristic that is not bad in a caulk.

I have found that lifecaulk and similar adhesive sealants to be quite annoying at times. If you do break the seal, they will remain pliable yet not sealed leaving a misconception that you have a seal yet it's not. They rely upon the adhesive features to create the seal.

I have found with butyl tape, it's not a matter of how hard you crank down on the bolts, rather getting enough tension for it to compress, but not over compress. If you crank down on it too much, you'll constantly be cleaning up for days on it, so after day 1 I tend to give the nut 1/4 turn to release the pressure and it no longer oozes. Maybe that's due to my Seattle weather, but even during warm season it works well.

[HopCar]

What a bunch of girly men! Real men use 5200 for bedding metal to fiberglass. 😁

Stanchions rarely need to be removed but if you need to, it’s pretty easy. Just warm the base with a propane torch. It will pop right off. The 5200 remaining on the fiberglass can then be removed with solvents such as Debond and a razor blade.

On non metallic applications 5200 is very difficult to remove.

Of course the real downside to 5200 is it’s ability to jump through the air. I swear I can just walk within three feet of wet 5200 and it’s on my shirt.

[GordMay]

Originally Posted by HopCar

... Of course the real downside to 5200 is it’s ability to jump through the air. I swear I can just walk within three feet of wet 5200 and it’s on my shirt.

In fact, when you opened a tube in Miami, I got it on my shirt, in Ft. Lauderdale!

[WSMFP]

You should need a training course and a license to buy 5200. It's the most misused product in marine world.

[flyingfin]

Lifecaulk or 4200

[S/V Illusion]

Originally Posted by Argyle38

What are those "right tools" in your opinion?


.

A good question for which there is no single ‘right’ answer. It depends on a number of considerations as I described before. My point is that so-called butyl isn’t a panacea for any sealing or bedding application for which there are better alternatives such as a number of polysulfides among others.

[HopCar]

Originally Posted by GordMay

In fact, when you opened a tube in Miami, I got it on my shirt, in Ft. Lauderdale!

Gord, I’ll warn you next time before I open a tube.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by HopCar

Of course the real downside to 5200 is it’s ability to jump through the air. I swear I can just walk within three feet of wet 5200 and it’s on my shirt.

Aircraft fuel tank sealant is worse, it seems to have a particular affinity to leather furniture, new, expensive trucks particularly.
Nothing removes it once it cures.

[john61ct]

Originally Posted by Argyle38

What are those "right tools" in your opinion? All you've said is that butyl isn't it.

I actually think butyl is more difficult to use than various "caulks". The requirements of surface cleanliness are more strict, and the bed-it stuff sticks to skin much better than pretty much everything else, so applying it is a challenge.

I use it in some situations based on Main Sails examples as well as tests done by Practical Sailor a few years ago, not because it's easy.

Well said, seems pretty clear what the answer to the OP is.

Mainesail's Bed-it product **is** formulated for this specific use case, and there is nothing "so-called" about it.

No one claims it is a panacea for **every** use case, but if used correctly, where the deck and fittings are sound, it will indeed do a better job than the "higher tech" sealants, and yes last longer.

The temperature range is actually wider than with most other sealants.

https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/prod...roll-4482.html

_________
Bed-It Tape is specifically formulated and extruded for the installation of deck fittings to the decks of boats. All aspects of the installation procedure and necessary formulation requirements have been brought together in a marine specific bedding tape.

It has been designed to:

*Work across wide temperature ranges with minimal "creep" or cold flow even in hot climates

*Formulated to have exceptional tolerance to withstand slight movement between deck and fitting

*Stand up to typical boat washing chemicals

*Have the proper density for use in a "compression" application.

*Have right density to allow it to*displace from under the fitting in a reasonable time frame

Bed-It Tape is made only from the finest materials and has been designed to exceed the quality of pre EPA tapes that have lasted for 30+ years.

Bed-It Tape is not an RV, Masonsry, HVAC or glazing product it was specifically formulated for use in bedding deck hardware.