Best Practices to Make Sure Jib/Genoa/Traveler Tracks Don’t Leak?

[Chotu]

Right. Importantly and not to waste anyone’s time, I didn’t ask how to install the track. I’m asking how to make sure it doesn’t drip on berths below.

Asking if butyl is the best choice for a highly loaded piece that may move a tiny tiny bit from the load on it.

Yes the boat is Corecell foam core.

[neilpride]

The track once tightened does not move at all, checked, Harken space the screws holes very well.

In old tracks the trick was to put the traveler car just above a screw, that happened in old french tracks of the brand Goiot, the screws were too far apart.

If you have a good support underneath and you tighten them very well, butyl tape is fine.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by neilpride

The track once tightened does not move at all, checked, Harken space the screws holes very well.

In old tracks the trick was to put the traveler car just above a screw, that happened in old french tracks of the brand Goiot, the screws were too far apart.

If you have a good support underneath and you tighten them very well, butyl tape is fine.

That’s good news!

I had figured there was a little deformation as it got to the parts without screws. I’m glad to hear that that’s not really an issue.

Thanks!

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by Chotu

... They definitely don’t come prevent however. ...

In fact, it is relatively common to have self-tacking jib tracks pre-bent. Obviously, I do not know your geometry or structure.

https://www.velasailingsupply.com/ou...nding-service/

Yes, butyl is a good idea. Very common on tracks for the reasons you expressed.

[smj]

The only place a leak will occur is around the bolt holes, not under the track between bolt holes, so if a little flex there, is no problem. I would form a donut of butyl around each bolt hole on the bottom of the track and also a donut under the head of the bolt where it enters the track. Is there any need for either butyl or caulking under the unsupported area of the track between bolt holes?
Last thing I would use is 5200. If you have a leak and have to pull the track, chances are you will pull the glass of the foam core with it.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by thinwater

In fact, it is relatively common to have self-tacking jib tracks pre-bent. Obviously, I do not know your geometry or structure.

https://www.velasailingsupply.com/ou...nding-service/

Yes, butyl is a good idea. Very common on tracks for the reasons you expressed.

These are links about a bending service. Like I was saying they don’t come pre-bent. Harken does not ship pre-bent tracks.

You have to bend them or contract with a bending service like the ones you just put links up to.

But thank you on the butyl tip. It’s pretty much my go to thing. It seems to last forever. It’s really easy to replace if it’s not lasting. You can make interesting washers and shapes out of it that really work well.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by smj

The only place a leak will occur is around the bolt holes, not under the track between bolt holes, so if a little flex there, is no problem. I would form a donut of butyl around each bolt hole on the bottom of the track and also a donut under the head of the bolt where it enters the track. Is there any need for either butyl or caulking under the unsupported area of the track between bolt holes?
Last thing I would use is 5200. If you have a leak and have to pull the track, chances are you will pull the glass of the foam core with it.

That’s true. I was picturing a slight deflection from the center of the bolt out toward the area that is most of distance from a bolt.

Probably overthinking it. Lol

[smj]

Originally Posted by Chotu

That’s true. I was picturing a slight deflection from the center of the bolt out toward the area that is most of distance from a bolt.



Probably overthinking it. Lol

With the epoxy plug your pouring you should be able to torque the bolts down hard enough where there should be no deflection around the bolt hole.
We have a very thin skinned foam cored deck with no epoxy plugs so over tightening the bolts leads to deck compression, but still no leak in jib tracks.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by smj

With the epoxy plug your pouring you should be able to torque the bolts down hard enough where there should be no deflection around the bolt hole.
We have a very thin skinned foam cored deck with no epoxy plugs so over tightening the bolts leads to deck compression, but still no leak in jib tracks.

Thanks. That second part is definitely good to hear. All I could picture is every one of these little screws across both state rooms dripping on berths. There might be nothing worse on a boat

[JBP]

Don't forget to counter sink / chamfer the holes to provide space for your butyl doughnuts. I am sure you already know this but you didn't mention it specifically.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by JBP

Don't forget to counter sink / chamfer the holes to provide space for your butyl doughnuts. I am sure you already know this but you didn't mention it specifically.

Actually…. I don’t normally do this. Might be a better approach.

I usually leave the donuts proud on a flat surface and tighten down to make a huge, oversized butyl washer. A very thin one. Then I trim off any excess that squeezed out.

Stuff is so good, still no leaks.

May do the countersink on these. Not a bad idea

[GreenWave]

Originally Posted by Benz

Use 5200 generously to prevent leaks. Clean up with mineral spirits.

If you do this you will have to destroy your deck if you ever need to remove.


Drill and fill, full butyl tape under track, and I like the use of anti-sieze as well.

[Joli]

Originally Posted by GreenWave

If you do this you will have to destroy your deck if you ever need to remove.


Drill and fill, full butyl tape under track, and I like the use of anti-sieze as well.

Insulating washer.....

https://www.accu.co.uk/1560-countersunk-shoulder-washers?page=10

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by Chotu

These are links about a bending service. Like I was saying they don’t come pre-bent. Harken does not ship pre-bent tracks.

You have to bend them or contract with a bending service like the ones you just put links up to....

Exactly. They don't bend except...

• For a fee, and
• With exact specifications. They need to know the radius.

If the track is not pre-bent you install it on a straight, flat surface with no or extremely minimal bend. I'm sure they could tell you the limits, which will depend on the track section.


Experience also tells me that self-tacking jibs that are not on curved tracks don't work as well when reaching deep. Of course, self-tackers aren't really good at that IMO, but you have a reacher for that.